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E30t387 E30t387 is offline
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Default 05-05-2016, 04:15 PM

Would a cracked valve cover cause a 30ff? Either way going to have to order one , or maybe try my luck and try jb weld , going to replace all vaccum lines as well, never ending story with this car.
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najin23 najin23 is offline
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Default 05-05-2016, 07:49 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by E30t387
Would a cracked valve cover cause a 30ff? Either way going to have to order one , or maybe try my luck and try jb weld , going to replace all vaccum lines as well, never ending story with this car.
Never ending it is. But thats whats making this car so much fun.


Getting there:
'07 E92 6mt,
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MHD BMS hybrid E85 BEF,
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OldBooster OldBooster is offline
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Default 05-06-2016, 07:08 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by najin23
Never ending it is. But thats whats making this car so much fun.
Hold on a minute ... if you'd suffered as many issues I've been through -- many thousands of dollars -- MANY -- as hundreds of other guys have, too, you wouldn't think it is so much fun. Sometimes fun isn't fun. For what I've got in my little 135i I could have bought a new M5.

I caused my own problems for the most part, by trying to go too far, and too fast. My advice to all of you guys is add a FMIC, *********, and the JB4 with a flash. Then STOP!

When you keep trying to get that little bit more, then a little bit more, you start having expensive problems and a lot of hassles. And the faster you try go, the more you'll be looking for guys to race; you might beat them by a car length, but you'll keep breaking things, replacing parts, upgrading to the new "thing", have your car sitting in a shop for weeks, spend a fortune, get tickets, maybe blow your engine, or crash.

Take it from the Oldbooster, I've been through everything above. More than once.

Good luck guys!
Larry


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E30t387 E30t387 is offline
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Default 05-06-2016, 07:17 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by E30t387
Would a cracked valve cover cause a 30ff? Either way going to have to order one , or maybe try my luck and try jb weld , going to replace all vaccum lines as well, never ending story with this car.
Anyone know the answer to my question? just trying to TS the issue, any help would be appreciated.
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E30t387 E30t387 is offline
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Default 05-13-2016, 04:45 PM

[QUOTE=Terry @ BMS;192679]

Terry I got a weird one here, was getting 30ff only when I flashed the car to mhd, on stack map it's fine. I found a crack in valve cover so I replaced valve cover, and gasket, and while I was at it also replaced all the vaccum lines with exception of the ones coming off the solenoids I believe they run to the waste gate or turbo not sure, replaced solenoids since they were old and one of them went bad, also checked intake side no visual leaks there, lastly since the valve cover was off I replaced the pcv valve with rb pcv. After two days of work I started car flashed it back to mhd stage 1 , took it for a spin everything was good. Here's the weird part, 30ff is back but only when I put trans into ds and shift it manually , if I put it in ds and let it shift itself it's fine, kind of stumped on this one. Anyone ever run into this situation?
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E30t387 E30t387 is offline
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Default 05-14-2016, 06:53 AM

[QUOTE=E30t387;468519]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry @ BMS

Terry I got a weird one here, was getting 30ff only when I flashed the car to mhd, on stack map it's fine. I found a crack in valve cover so I replaced valve cover, and gasket, and while I was at it also replaced all the vaccum lines with exception of the ones coming off the solenoids I believe they run to the waste gate or turbo not sure, replaced solenoids since they were old and one of them went bad, also checked intake side no visual leaks there, lastly since the valve cover was off I replaced the pcv valve with rb pcv. After two days of work I started car flashed it back to mhd stage 1 , took it for a spin everything was good. Here's the weird part, 30ff is back but only when I put trans into ds and shift it manually , if I put it in ds and let it shift itself it's fine, kind of stumped on this one. Anyone ever run into this situation?
I take it back, it came back even in DS mode, just took longer to come back, though since I changed all the vacuum lines it wont come one all the time , so maybe the ones going down to the turbos need replacing, just looks like a bitch to get to them.
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Turbo_jorge Turbo_jorge is offline
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Default 05-17-2016, 06:16 AM

[QUOTE=E30t387;468578]
Quote:
Originally Posted by E30t387

I take it back, it came back even in DS mode, just took longer to come back, though since I changed all the vacuum lines it wont come one all the time , so maybe the ones going down to the turbos need replacing, just looks like a bitch to get to them.

I have very similar issues with the shifting pattern ,I've replaced all my vacuum lines and did a boost leak test. From my testing thanks to the first post I found the solenoids aren't holding at 20Vac I just bought new solenoids will be receiving them tomorrow keeping my fingers crossed. Please keep me posted if you find your issue.
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E30t387 E30t387 is offline
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Default 05-17-2016, 09:22 AM

[QUOTE=Turbo_jorge;469337]
Quote:
Originally Posted by E30t387


I have very similar issues with the shifting pattern ,I've replaced all my vacuum lines and did a boost leak test. From my testing thanks to the first post I found the solenoids aren't holding at 20Vac I just bought new solenoids will be receiving them tomorrow keeping my fingers crossed. Please keep me posted if you find your issue.
Replaced solenoids , all vaccum lines, it go better but still comes up, next I'll be fixing the wg rattle and possibly looking in to the Dv valves
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Turbo_jorge Turbo_jorge is offline
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Default 05-17-2016, 01:25 PM

I thought it was my DV valves as well or a leaking charge pipe so I upgraded both still no luck after that....:
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krukedking krukedking is offline
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Default 06-05-2016, 02:38 PM

I only get this in high boost. Like top of a gear. I'm mhd stage 2 (18psi) then I clear the code via mhd sometimes clears and I can boost again, sometimes have to shut car off then back on.


at the end of the life your not sorry for things you did, but the things you did not
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krukedking krukedking is offline
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Default 06-06-2016, 08:29 PM

Any ideas?


at the end of the life your not sorry for things you did, but the things you did not
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Mihael535i Mihael535i is offline
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Default 06-20-2016, 06:35 AM

I did that last test where you T in between the two boost solenoids. I went WOT in 3rd and this is the result.

https://youtu.be/oVLwoAZBGM0

Anyone can tell me if that is a bad boost solenoid??
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robbob1980 robbob1980 is offline
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Default 06-20-2016, 07:24 AM

Hi. I tried to do this test last weekend as I got a 30FF and my boost is a bit off target. I'm not sure I did the PCV bit correct though as when I started to pressurize the system, there was quite a bit of air coming out of the PCV hose that comes from the valve cover. I had blocked the port that is on the rear intake pipe. Was I meant to block the hose coming from the valve cover too?
I only managed to get to about 3psi as I wasn't sure it was right. I did however find my BOV was leaking even at that low of a pressure so I've ordered a new one. I'll fit that then repeat the test if someone could tell me if I need to block any other line?

Cheers

Rob
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Pyro3leven Pyro3leven is offline
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Default Possible to induce boost leak? - 07-31-2016, 05:21 PM

I realize this could be a grey area.

I was on the highway and got the 30FF code, went into limp, pulled over and cleared the code. I have COBB installed. The car was fine the rest of the trip as I reflashed to Drive from Sport +.

The car is at 98k for mileage now and my mechanic said if I can get the 30FF code to pull before 100K he can get BMW NA to approve a turbo swap.

My wastegates rattle is getting out of control. It's not audible at idle from 30/40 feet.

Plan is to de-tune the COBB and then try and force a code. But how?
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dlakatos dlakatos is offline
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Default 08-06-2016, 04:39 PM

i did the boost pressure test. compressor gauge was reading less than 5 psi and a loud hissing is coming from the rear turbo. so little room i cant tell where from. seems like major leak from somewhere down there. maybe turbo inlet pipe?
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Manzato Manzato is offline
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Default 02-25-2017, 09:03 AM

Hi guys... Anyone have the PN for weakest joint for step 1 = intake tube to turbo (FMIC O-ring)???? Thank you very much!!!
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imasiberian imasiberian is offline
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Default 04-02-2017, 10:03 PM

Ok, seems like mystery problem with low boost and lazy spool was finally solved for me. I ended up taking FMIC+charge pipe and throttle body of then reassemble it on table plugged throttle body with rubber glove and pressurized whole system with compressor. 5psi later DV's started to throw the air through. Ordered ER charge pipe and HKS bov. Just my 0.2cents may be will help someone. Sorry didn't take any pictures as was so exited with my find
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DadBody DadBody is offline
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Default N55 JB4 Waste Gate PWG connection problem - 04-26-2017, 10:54 AM

I have a Stock 2014 BMW X1 35i and picked up a JB4 with Ver. 3 Connect kit and data cable from a buddy who had it on his 435. I performed the ISO diode mod and updated latest firmware (N55_ISO_14) successfully with my laptop using the data cable. With everything connected properly, I only get about 4lbs of boost and keep getting chronic half-engine lights, reduced power mode events in all maps 0,1,4 and 5.

However, if I disconnect the waste gate connection, and reconnect the stock waste gate connection, and leave the rest of the JB4 connected, I can make up to 12 lbs of boost sporadically, but nominally around 8 (typical for stock), and I never get a check engine or collateral problem with the JB4 waste gate connection disconnected.

I have connected and disconnected several times with the same results. Verified no leaks, the care only has 31K on it.

I'm open to any thoughts and ideas on how to remedy this problem. I have a new ** ready for install, but I want to sort this waste gate problem out first. Also have one one step colder NGK spark plugs ready for install, but its definitely not a spark issue since I'm making power without the JB4 waste gate connection made up
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sp33dfiend sp33dfiend is offline
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Default 335is 30ff after stock flash? - 06-03-2017, 06:16 PM

hey all,

really need some insight.
i have a 2011 335is. i have been running jb4 pump bef since feb 2016 with no issues. last friday, i flashed back to stock via mhd for smog test. (passed) noticed 30ff immediately after flashing back to stock. no hardware changes.

what is strange to me is that i don't hear the turbos pretty much at all. when my stock cp failed and the dv popped off, it felt similar but i could still hear the turbos.

I updated/flashed back to pump (via mhd) to see if that did the trick, but no dice. ive does a pressure test and didn't find any pressure leaks up to 10psi (yet), though i am still working on vacuum test. i noticed this log says 0 boost target. is that due to the jb4 pump map being flashed? does anyone see anything interesting that i am missing? any suggestions?

I have this vague memory of when i first flashed the car that it had an "atypical" firmware version since i had to hunt for a map to flash (not remembering exactly what though). i have the old mhd backup, but mhd doesnt like it anymore and will not flash it. i would like to try flashing back to the previous version i had, but nope so far.

EDIT: i have a DME MSD81 index 4 in a 335is. i would expect that i would have a different version of the firmware from a standard 335i?

i was thinking perhaps i flashed the wrong bef, but mhd is saying the firmware version is ijeos and thats what i flashed, plus the car "runs". is that even possible?

any and all insights would be appreciated.

(in case it matters, stock ic (mishimoto waiting for install), stock **, cobb cp, turbosmart dv, dci)
Attached Files
File Type: csv 170603_1745.csv (23.0 KB, 240 views)

Last edited by sp33dfiend; 06-03-2017 at 06:34 PM.. Reason: add msd
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imasiberian imasiberian is offline
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Default 06-22-2017, 09:50 PM

Hello all, My car is 2008 BMW 535xi with 140000km on it. Since I bought it two years ago I had this annoying low boost error code that I tried to fix. So far I have tried: replacing vacuum lines, PCV valve, new ER charge pipe with HKS BOV. I checked entire charge system for leaks (intercooler+charge pipe plus sprayed everything with soap) and I also adjusted actuator rod on a rear turbo and have checked solenoids everything seems to be fine. Yet still error message comes up under load. I was hitting the target ones in a while on map1 but the boost was building up very slowly. I'm was afraid that I would have to replace the turbos. But finally I found and fixed the problem. It was loosen west gate on front turbo. There is no way to adjust the rod without pulling half of the car apart especially on XI. But there is a solution, all you need to do is just add two washers under actuator mount which would move whole actuator with rod away from turbo and make west gate sit tighter. There is only two bolts holding it and I added two washers on each bolt between mount and the turbo. Its possible to do from the top and front side of the engine without removing radiator or draining anything. The only thing I had to do just unscrew the intake pipe and move it aside from the turbo. Took me about 4 hours as I was constantly loosen the washers before I could put bolt back on place, but it's doable. Car runs like never before now, I had never felt so much boost since I bought it. No more error codes.
Good luck guys.
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dlp3719 dlp3719 is offline
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Default 06-23-2017, 05:27 AM

Interesting mod. Do you have any pics of the washers in place?


2007 n54 e90 sedan (1/07 date), JB4 G5 ISO - Map 3, BMS DCI, BMS Trunk Tank Meth Kit - two nozzle - CM7/CM10, BMS OCC, MHD Trebilia Flash, e60 (5 gallons of 93 and 11 gallons E85), Stage 2 from Fuel-It, VRSF 7" FMIC, N54tuning.com V1 **, ER Charge Pipe w/Tial BOV, NGK Iridium (one-step colder) plugs, N20 TMAP Sensor, RB turbo inlets, VTT outlets
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jlcf22 jlcf22 is offline
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Default 07-06-2017, 09:24 AM

So like OP stated if the rear inlets starts to hissle and leak air it's not a boost leak? my mmp and stock turbos both leaked air from the rear turbo is that normal?
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wolfusor wolfusor is offline
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Default 04-28-2019, 02:47 PM

2007 n54. No fault codes, just slow boost build up and some overboost when off the gas pedal. I've set up the system for boost/intake leak test, capped the PCV pipe. As soon as start pumping in pressure, I can hear hissing sound coming from inside the engine valves cover, more audible when I open the oil cap. Any ideas would be appreciated.


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