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Default Just a check up on logs, with a question - 07-05-2020, 06:46 PM

Hey all,
With these 90-95 degree days, my car has felt a little more sluggish than the wintertime, which I am fine with, since I know the air is less cool and dense, and my oil temp is on the middle of the gauge, rather than staying at least 2 bars down. Anyways, I just wanted to take some logs and see whats going on and if everything is good. To my eye, they look good, as a few months ago the wgdc and FF were almost maxed out, and now they have dropped to what I believe is normal. However, my one question is, I JUST hit 130k today, sadly, however I have not found any boost leaks, and all of my hoses are in tact & pretty tight. I do have some wastegate rattle when i give it very light throttle, but the issue is that (you can see in the logs) my boost only hits 13psi of the requested 17, at 77 degrees ambient temp. At noon today, I was only hitting 10-11 psi at 90 degrees ambient temp. I am on 93 octane, and I have hit 17 in the past on 93.

I was doing some research and saw it could be wastegates, but also could be the solenoids or vacuum lines. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the wastegates with early rattle would only give off a couple PSI. Has anyone had a situation like mine, and replaced vacuum lines/boost solenoids and hit their target? Or at least close to it? I know not all tunes always hit their target for safety reasons.

Thanks for any input!

On the first (very long) log, there are 3 good pulls, 2 near the beginning and one near the middle.

On the log where i hit 14psi consistently, you can see that I "rolled" into the throttle instead of just gunning it. I have found I get a little more pull feeling when I take the throttle up slow, then gun it.

Feel free to tell me otherwise if I am looking for a problem that isn't there, or my beliefs were incorrect. I am here to learn. This is also my first summer being FBO with a mhd BEF
Attached Files
File Type: csv 200705_1456.csv (463.1 KB, 67 views)
File Type: csv 200705_1459.csv (118.0 KB, 68 views)
File Type: csv 200705_2127.csv (84.2 KB, 67 views)
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Default 07-18-2020, 09:40 AM

Just an update, put all new vac lines in last weekend- and no difference. Going to adjust my wastegate arm hopefully today, and if that doesn't help with boost & rattling, I am likely to buy boost solenoids SO i can at least get some troubleshooting out of the way. Plus I'm at 130k, which I'd say all of that is due anyways.
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Default 07-18-2020, 06:28 PM

No luck with the rod adjustment. None of my 10mm would spin the nut. I gave up, also partly due to the fact that the Solenoids run in parallel, meaning they go off each other, and I didnt have a good feeling about one wastegate being offset to the other, while pulling the same vacuum, which I would believe might lead to a greater leak. I am going to brainstorm about what steps I should take next, which I have a feeling I should just buy new turbos now, even though I wanted a single in the future. If im going to take the stock turbs out, no point in putting stock back in there with all of that work, since it is on my to do. Sucks it had to be now though.
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Default 07-18-2020, 08:44 PM

Logs are too large, it won’t let me open.

Have you performed a pressure test? That’s usually the first step.


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Default 07-19-2020, 08:16 AM

Sorry about that, didn't even think that would be an issue. I enjoy the raw sample data to look at everything.

Here's 4 logs I took last night after using MHD's new app to reflash a BEF, and Reflash "32_14_T11" firmware into the jb4 (I feel I've had better luck with this one). Two are logs, and two are weird boost oscillation logs I got when giving heavy throttle under low RPM. Seems the WGDC shoots up.

I also don't like the timing numbers, should I be concerned?

Now after reflashing, and doing several pulls, my car would get 15psi boost Early in the rpms, and drop kind of hard pretty quickly... Which is weird. HOWEVER, My wastegates barely sound like they are rattling now. I changed all jb4 settings to default from the sticky prior to any driving.

I am currently waiting for my sister to get ready to drive me to Home Depot to get the fitting and cap to pressure test, so my car isnt blazing hot when I test it.
Attached Files
File Type: csv Map2CEL&AFRlean.csv (19.1 KB, 58 views)
File Type: csv 200718_2249.csv (5.0 KB, 58 views)
File Type: csv 200718_2244.csv (10.9 KB, 57 views)
File Type: csv 4thGearOscillationUnderHeavyThrottleLowRPM.csv (3.9 KB, 56 views)
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Default 07-19-2020, 12:49 PM

So, finished my leak test. Nothing sounded out of the ordinary, except my rear inlet, which freaked me out pretty bad as to why air was coming out of there. Come to find out, you have to plug the pcv hose.... derp. So once I did that, I could barely hear any leaks putting a vacuum hose to my ear and poking around like a doctor. Tightened and adjusted the hose clamp position to see if that makes any difference.

Now what I DID FIND: As soon as I took the intercooler off, I saw my outlet pipe looked like a piece of pie was taken from a whole pie, as in, the circle was bent in. I think this is the strongest possibility of any leak, and have since moved the clamp upwards onto circular pipe, and fixed the bend back to a circle. Also, I am putting new orings in everything, just in case. Why not while im here right? I will be glad to take some logs once everything is back together to see how everything is doing.
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Default 07-19-2020, 02:56 PM

Ok, car is put back together and I took it for a drive. Boost oscillation is still there on and off. Sometimes I'm hitting 15psi, sometimes only 10 on Map 2, again, with an MHD BEF. The "feeling" of the power curves always tapers near the end like it is supposed to, no matter boost level.

To recoop:
Nothing was leaking from the hot side IC boost leak test.
I have replaced my vacuum lines with silicone ones.
I have boost oscillation randomly.
I am not ever hitting full boost target.
There is wastegate rattle, but has drastically improved after reflashing both tunes and setting values to defaults, yet seems to be coming back to where it was beforehand.

Would the next step be solenoids?

I do not have logs after the boost leak test, but will take some in an hour or two.
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Default 07-19-2020, 07:22 PM

Logs after leak test

I'm really confused as to why WGDC is very high now. I tested for leaks after adjusting the clamps!

Can this mean something else besides a leak? Hpfp? If I remember right they used to be 15 consistently in logs
Attached Files
File Type: csv 200719_2103.csv (151.9 KB, 60 views)
File Type: csv 200719_2052.csv (132.0 KB, 56 views)
File Type: csv 200719_2040.csv (100.1 KB, 59 views)
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Default 07-20-2020, 04:39 PM

Monday update:
5am cold start today, first thing that happens is Half cel, and I get codes:
29E0-Mixture control
29F1-Fuel pressure, plausibility

>I started it in map 2, as soon as I switched to map 5, nothing came back. Drove map 5 all the way to work, 15psi the difference of 15psi and 12/13 is crazy. 17psi used to have an insane pull after 4500rpm. On 93!
>I get in my car to go home, back to 13 psi on 2&5, and 10 psi on 1. No codes since this morning. Car feels more responsive, but boost seems to take a little bit to build up than it used to.

Just want my 17psi back, man!
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Default 07-21-2020, 05:57 AM

Logs are too large I can’t open them.

The symptoms your experiencing in the morning - look like it’s either a dying hpfp or leaking fuel injectors- both codes point to either.

Log your car on start up when it’s doing that - and post. I don’t need a 100-200kb file


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Home of the JB4 the worlds most popular turbocharged tuning system!

It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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Default 07-21-2020, 05:28 PM

Ok - It hasn't done it since that one time.

What's the max size you can open? The upload said 400 something was max. My apologies I'd like to stop wasting your time.

I took one this morning but it might be over 100. Ill take one tmrw morning if so. I looked at the one this morning, and it looked good during cold start, very smooth lines, however ign timing went all over the place once it was past cold start. I'll attach shortly.

Also, I think I might have found a very small chip or crack in the valve cover kind of near the front portion of the ventilation system. Can this also cause lower boost? I'd imagine it could take vacuum away from the wastegates, maybe making them rattle, and/or just not closing them enough. I can email you a pic if interested.

Last edited by Yarbis; 07-21-2020 at 05:35 PM..
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Default 07-21-2020, 06:31 PM

Cant even believe I just thought the POSITIVE CRANK VENT would have vacuum... had a very long day @ work today. The file was much larger than 100, So I'll retake tomorrow AM and post it at work.
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Default 07-21-2020, 06:50 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Yarbis
Logs after leak test

I'm really confused as to why WGDC is very high now. I tested for leaks after adjusting the clamps!

Can this mean something else besides a leak? Hpfp? If I remember right they used to be 15 consistently in logs
1st log shows ff maxed at 150 and wgdc pegged at 100. I would still think you have a boost leak or some type of hardware issue.
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Default 07-22-2020, 05:17 PM

Ok here's some logs. Split up the cold start just incase they were too big. First 3 on cold start, the rest normal logs. Of course the ending one (the most important for ign #s jumping) is larger than 100, even though it isn't long. Lmk if you cant open it.

News: FF adaptation always maxes out at 150 on user adj. page.

Edit: Post finally refreshed. Would you think that can be from a waste gate boost leak? Because my hot side piping didn't show any leaks on my pressure test. OR could a bad pcv valve, I dont have RB or BMS one yet, cause this? I am willing to buy anything at this point lol.
Attached Files
File Type: csv Start cold start.csv (60.0 KB, 58 views)
File Type: csv Middle Cold start.csv (84.5 KB, 55 views)
File Type: csv End of cold start.csv (106.8 KB, 60 views)
File Type: csv map 5.csv (53.4 KB, 56 views)
File Type: csv ].csv (53.4 KB, 60 views)
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Default 07-23-2020, 05:06 AM

Here's a short log after cold start that hopefully is smaller than yesterday's. Also had a good chance to pull on the highway so here's another log cause why not give sufficient tests/information.
Attached Files
File Type: csv After cold start 7-23.csv (38.7 KB, 56 views)
File Type: csv 200723_0757.csv (98.7 KB, 56 views)
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Default 07-23-2020, 05:23 AM

Manually lower your ff From 150 to 80,


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It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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Default 07-23-2020, 03:16 PM

I have, 3 times in the last week. Just jumps right back up to 150 <-- Sorry if I wasnt clear that it was this way 2 of my posts ago.

hpfp log- after starting to move about 100ft after cold start, I got a half CEL, And codes:

2b3a-No description
2a1a-tank vent. system, function
2ded-power management (Often get this for my BT audio adapter)
29e0-Fuel mix. control
29f1-Fuel pressure, plausability.

And the other log is flooring it in 6th gear, with some boost oscillation. It is on and off, but more frequently on.

I also noticed that when i use Anti lag/2step, even with "bit 3" selected, they do not work together. There is no jumping in RPMS with popping going on anymore. It is just like brake boosting an automatic now basically. I DONT KNOW if it is related to my initial boost issue.

Updated to latest JB4 Firmware, which is only 1 rev. after the one I installed the other day. Just to see if it helped. Nothing different going on between the two.
Attached Files
File Type: csv hpfp.csv (21.2 KB, 57 views)
File Type: csv 6thBoostOscill.csv (31.5 KB, 56 views)

Last edited by Yarbis; 07-23-2020 at 03:23 PM..
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Default 07-24-2020, 04:33 PM

Well - now that I've got some time this weekend, I'm going to try and clean the VANOS solenoids with brake clean. Maybe it'll help, maybe it won't, but the previos 2 owners were both chicks and the oil change interval is ridiculous, you can see where I'm going. I've seen it fixes some people's weird fueling issues, so I know it's not directly boost related, but good maintenance either way. Not expecting results but will tell if I get them.
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Default 07-26-2020, 06:40 AM

I still think you’ve got a big leak somewhere, the way FF keeps learning back up, or your wg are shot


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It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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Default 07-26-2020, 10:15 AM

I'm betting it's my wg then. It's just weird that I have oscillation, and I can build 15psi if I slowly go to full throttle. I've played with menu 10&12 over the past few days, and have seemed to be able to mask the wg rattle a little bit, but the oscillation moves up to a higher range of rpm when adjusted that way. Very strange to me. I'll take some logs of the oscillation today, but I have the feeling there's not much more we can find.

I COULD have a big leak somewhere, but, I had a big leak when I installed my IC for the first time, and there was a distinct air sound I could hear, and the boost was more responsive than it is now, just lower psi. I can build the psi, now, it just takes a lot longer than it used to most of the time. Sometimes it builds psi asap!
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Default 07-27-2020, 10:16 AM

When you mess with the wg rattle, slow spool is often the tradeoff


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It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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Default 07-27-2020, 04:49 PM

Yep, my settings are back and were originally 3k for 10, and 2.6k for 12. Back around 12-13psi.

I got a half CEL after "cold" start in 95deg, Didnt have my computer or tuning phone w me so I cleared it and then restarted the car to see if it came back. On my way home, got code 2C32- Lambda probe in front of meow converter 2, trimming control. Looking into it now, Ill edit in a bit.

EDIT:
Both 2C31 and 2C32 lambda after DP installation - Page 2 - N54Tech.com - International Turbo Racing Discussion - Seems like I have similar problems to this. And that might be why my hpfp was only hitting 12 ish in the past few logs. Looks like im ordering o2's COULD this be a fueling issue?

Last edited by Yarbis; 07-27-2020 at 06:41 PM..
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Default 08-04-2020, 07:21 PM

Hey, haven't received my o2 sensor yet, but thinking, My cats blew all of the stuff clean out of them. I blew the exhaust out with a good leaf blower, and got stuff out of it. Could all of my problems be from a clogged midpipe?
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Default 08-05-2020, 08:29 AM

Clogged mid ***** can cause some issues, generally that’s associated with the car feeling sluggish.


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It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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Default 08-05-2020, 07:35 PM

Which it really does feel sluggish, since my boost isnt that high. And might explain why I'm not making the boost target, because of the back pressure? This weekend, I'm going to temporarily go DP dump and see how it spools, and feels. Hopefully the o2 will be here in time. Also, I still expect for WG rattle to stay, but hopefully my boost can finally hit target again.

Every day, I have a feeling of when my car is in warmup safety still, that how it drives feels so much more responsive instead of when it is warmed. Obviously, there is more boost, but it doesnt feel like it spools like it does before it is warm.
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