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Default BMS OCC - What Are The Battery Issues If The PVC Is Removed? - 01-24-2016, 01:42 PM

I've just fitted the BMS OCC to a E82 and would really like to remove the redundant PCV assembly however, the instructions say 'This must stay connected or battery issues may arise in some N55 vehicles.'

What are these issues? I'd ideally like to simply un-clip the unit and cover the remaining wires and was wondering, do these 'issues' refer to the fact that for some people the water pump continually runs resulting in a flat battery or does it refer to something else?

Thanks


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UK 2011 - E82- 135i - N55 - DCT

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Default 01-24-2016, 05:35 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by keyap
I've just fitted the BMS OCC to a E82 and would really like to remove the redundant PCV assembly however, the instructions say 'This must stay connected or battery issues may arise in some N55 vehicles.'

What are these issues? I'd ideally like to simply un-clip the unit and cover the remaining wires and was wondering, do these 'issues' refer to the fact that for some people the water pump continually runs resulting in a flat battery or does it refer to something else?

Thanks


Attachment 43938
Yep that's it. This can cause the water pump to run when the key is not in the ignition. Happened to me. Plugging this back in stopped it right away.
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Default 01-25-2016, 10:33 AM

Quote:
Yep that's it. This can cause the water pump to run when the key is not in the ignition. Happened to me. Plugging this back in stopped it right away.
Thanks

Is there any other work round? I'd ideally like to remove the assembly.

Am I also right in thinking that this only happens on some N55s? If so, I may disconnect and see what happens.


UK 2011 - E82- 135i - N55 - DCT

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Default 02-04-2016, 05:39 AM

Quick update - I've had the assembly removed for the last few days and there appears to be no problem with the pump.

Is this something which happens instantly and every time the car's off or is it an intermittent issue which could start to happen at anytime?


UK 2011 - E82- 135i - N55 - DCT

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Mernardi Mernardi is offline
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Default 02-04-2016, 07:19 AM

Happened to me instantly. It's audible, you can hear it with the engine off and outside the car. The fix is connecting the JB4 power wire to one of the boost solenoid wires.
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Default 02-04-2016, 08:04 AM

Quote:
Happened to me instantly. It's audible, you can hear it with the engine off and outside the car. The fix is connecting the JB4 power wire to one of the boost solenoid wires.
Great - thanks. Thought I'd read somewhere that there was a work round


UK 2011 - E82- 135i - N55 - DCT

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Default 02-04-2016, 10:59 AM

It started on my car about a week after the OCC install. Was at my friends house and found my car with a dead battery when I left.
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Default 02-04-2016, 01:46 PM

Quote:
appened to me instantly. It's audible, you can hear it with the engine off and outside the car. The fix is connecting the JB4 power wire to one of the boost solenoid wires.
Quote:
It started on my car about a week after the OCC install. Was at my friends house and found my car with a dead battery when I left.
Thanks guys - think I'll connect to the boost solenoid. Does it matter which wire I connect to?


UK 2011 - E82- 135i - N55 - DCT

JB4 | BMS OCC | N20 TMap | Fuel-It! PI | AIC6 PI Controller | Fuel-It! Fuel Lines | Fuel-It! Stage 2 LPFP | Continental In-line E Sensor | ER Charge Pipe | Pure Stage 2 Turbo | Pure High Flow Inlet | GFB DV+ | Richter C'less D/Pipe | Berk Race Full Exhaust | MFactory Pro Helical LSD (75% Bias Ratio) | eDiff Disabled Via Coding | MFactory Solid Diff Bushes | Diff Lockdown Bracket | Custom 98G0B BEF | NGK 5992s | KW3 Coilovers
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Default 03-13-2016, 02:34 AM

Thought I'd post a quick update as the PVC has now been off the car for a while - nothing too lengthy given the 'water pump' problem and resolution is well documented elsewhere.

My plans are to make the JB4 boost solenoid mod referenced by Mernardi and posted here. At present though I have the JB4 powered via the 50A fuse in the DME box and have the water pump problem but only in the following conditions:-

1. Car running - no problem
2. Car not running, locked and engine cold - no problem
3. Car not running, locked and engine warm - no problem
4. Car not running, unlocked and engine cold - occasionally the pump comes on
5. Car not running, unlocked and engine warm - pump comes on within a matter of seconds

Basically, I'm OK if the car is locked when not running


UK 2011 - E82- 135i - N55 - DCT

JB4 | BMS OCC | N20 TMap | Fuel-It! PI | AIC6 PI Controller | Fuel-It! Fuel Lines | Fuel-It! Stage 2 LPFP | Continental In-line E Sensor | ER Charge Pipe | Pure Stage 2 Turbo | Pure High Flow Inlet | GFB DV+ | Richter C'less D/Pipe | Berk Race Full Exhaust | MFactory Pro Helical LSD (75% Bias Ratio) | eDiff Disabled Via Coding | MFactory Solid Diff Bushes | Diff Lockdown Bracket | Custom 98G0B BEF | NGK 5992s | KW3 Coilovers

Last edited by keyap; 03-13-2016 at 02:40 AM..
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Default 09-27-2016, 05:01 PM

I'm having the water pump issue here...
Started having this problem about 3 days ago and I've been running jb4 ISO and bms occ for 3 months now without any problems up until now. Checked that the remaining connector was still connected to the old PVC heater thing. Also made the jb4 power through boost solenoid mod and still won't fix it..
The only "good" thing about my case is that it just stays on for a little over a minute after I turn off the car and then it stays off (I think so). It also turns on whenever I unlock the car (not sure if only when warm or also when it's cold).

I'd really like to fix this issue without having to dump my bms occ..
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Default 09-28-2016, 02:47 PM

I finished up running a separate switched live to the DME box.

This powers the JB4 and other associate mods.

Since install, I've never had a problem.


UK 2011 - E82- 135i - N55 - DCT

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Default 09-28-2016, 03:24 PM

If you left the heater element plugged in then your problem is not OCC related. Maybe you need to also relocate your JB4 power wire?
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Burger Motorsports
Home of the JB4 the worlds most popular turbocharged tuning system!

It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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Default 09-29-2016, 09:25 AM

Ok I'm still having the water pump issue... made a video for anyone interested to watch and point out if anything is wrong..
Something else to point out: Made my oil change about a month ago and I've driven barely 500 miles, however "low oil level" sign appeared on the dash coincidentally around the same time the water pump issue started. Though it might have been related but nonetheless I added 1 quart of oil, sing still popped up, so I added another one (for a total of two). A few mins later I prompted the in dash menu to give me a reading of the oil level and now it shows INACTIVE. This is where I'm really starting to freak out... started googling up if the water pump and oil sensors are related and it appears they are..

Sorry if I'm violating any kind of forum etiquete or rules by posting this from another page but I think this is really spot on of what I'm Experiencing:

The fact that the oil level sensor won't work properly when the water pump is running all the time might answer a question I had about how it actually works.

The oil level sensor is supposed to be able to tell how much oil is in the engine by how long it takes it to change temperature. I can understand how that would work when the car was below normal temps, but I was having a hard time figuring out how it could check it while you're driving down the interstate on a road trip.

This problem you're seeing would seem to suggest that they're altering the engine temperature using the water pump speed so the oil level sensor can take a reading. If the pump's running full speed all the time, the engine temp is probably just riding the termostat and there isn't enough of a change in the oil temp to get a level reading.


So there it is, it seems that if I solve the water pump issue then the oil problem goes away too... anyway here's the video I made just to make sure I got everything connected alright..

https://youtu.be/Jh1Ddw8-Jf8

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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Default 09-29-2016, 09:33 AM

See my post above?


Burger Motorsports
Home of the JB4 the worlds most popular turbocharged tuning system!

It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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Default 09-29-2016, 09:37 AM

Yes Terry thanks, that's exactly the connection I made and I still have the issue
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Default 09-29-2016, 09:42 AM

Hmm so if after moving the power wire and reconnecting the OCC heater element caused the same issue it's hard to imagine how it might be related to your aftermarket parts. Try putting the car all back to stock?


Burger Motorsports
Home of the JB4 the worlds most popular turbocharged tuning system!

It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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Default 09-29-2016, 09:48 AM

Hmmm that would be ********* dp, intercooler, occ and chargepipe... I'll try first taking off the jb4.. just to be sure and I'll report back. Thanks for the support tho
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Default 09-29-2016, 10:21 AM

Yes start with JB4 for sure.


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It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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Default 09-30-2016, 11:23 AM

Took out the jb4, pump still keeps running after engine shut off. Jb4 is not the problem, wanted to clarify that.
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Default 10-01-2016, 05:07 AM

I need the pvc part number please


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Default 10-01-2016, 02:02 PM

Here you go.............


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UK 2011 - E82- 135i - N55 - DCT

JB4 | BMS OCC | N20 TMap | Fuel-It! PI | AIC6 PI Controller | Fuel-It! Fuel Lines | Fuel-It! Stage 2 LPFP | Continental In-line E Sensor | ER Charge Pipe | Pure Stage 2 Turbo | Pure High Flow Inlet | GFB DV+ | Richter C'less D/Pipe | Berk Race Full Exhaust | MFactory Pro Helical LSD (75% Bias Ratio) | eDiff Disabled Via Coding | MFactory Solid Diff Bushes | Diff Lockdown Bracket | Custom 98G0B BEF | NGK 5992s | KW3 Coilovers
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Default 10-01-2016, 02:08 PM

If its not the JB4 then I really have no idea what else might be going on. Has to be electrical I'd think.


Burger Motorsports
Home of the JB4 the worlds most popular turbocharged tuning system!

It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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Default 10-07-2016, 08:17 AM

Ok so after 4 days of testing at the dealership they concluded it was the water pump itself. Really weird since I only have like 20k miles..
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