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iminhell1 iminhell1 is offline
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Default Relocate coolant tank, hose routing question - 04-16-2017, 02:00 AM

Just curious why the SOP is to route the hose coming off the bottom of the overflow back to the waterpump (or is it the thermostat?)?

The way the stock routing looks to me, that bottom hose is T'd in with the return from the heater core and trans cooler (for us auto guys). So to me it would seem that the added length of hose is making a run that can be accomplished through the existing connections and there is no need to make a second trip?
But what to cover the second now unused leg of the Y with?
Is there by chance a hose that follows the same path but does not have the Y at the waterpump?


2010 135i auto, MHD E40 tune, Fuel-It stg 2 pump, best 1/4 mile 11.863 @ 119.17 mph
new mods this year, VRSF 5" stepped IC, RB EVO inlets, CP-e/Tial CP, 1320 **'s, xhp stg 3 trans tune, E-85 tune
Best 1/8 mile: 7.469 @ 98.56, 1.769 60'
Best 1/4 mile: 11.480 @ 121.79 1.802 60'
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R.G. R.G. is offline
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Default 04-16-2017, 02:57 AM

You are correct. +5 points.

Just plug the Y connection.
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iminhell1 iminhell1 is offline
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Default 04-30-2017, 05:59 PM

So how about just using bulk hose and VW connectors (all so I don't loose them):

45 degree connectors,
http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-54247-627-000.aspx
http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-54254-627-005.aspx


90 degree connector
http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-78658-902-735.aspx

Straight connectors,
http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-54259-627-002.aspx
http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-78325-902-714.aspx

I'm going to order a few of each and see what I can come up with.


vs the stock y at the thermostat:



2010 135i auto, MHD E40 tune, Fuel-It stg 2 pump, best 1/4 mile 11.863 @ 119.17 mph
new mods this year, VRSF 5" stepped IC, RB EVO inlets, CP-e/Tial CP, 1320 **'s, xhp stg 3 trans tune, E-85 tune
Best 1/8 mile: 7.469 @ 98.56, 1.769 60'
Best 1/4 mile: 11.480 @ 121.79 1.802 60'

Last edited by iminhell1; 04-30-2017 at 06:26 PM..
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iminhell1 iminhell1 is offline
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Default 05-05-2017, 09:52 PM

*edited 05/07/2017

So here is how this can be reworked on factory parts you already have ... you don't have to buy anything (providing you're careful).


This is how you are connected stock,




You'll have to cut all the clamps off the T. The hose going to the overflow will stay with the overflow tank.
Now you'll have to remove the hose from the bottom of the upper radiator hose. Cut the clamp off. This connector will now go to the thermostat and connect to the hose that goes to the lower coolant pipe. You will have to dremel the short pin longer. If you look carefully you'll see the alignment pins are different widths and lengths, it's very slight but matters.

(ignore the parts I used, this was trial fitting)





Now the T will go to the bottom of the upper rad hose,





All factory parts and unmodified hoses. Just need to move them around.



You need a 90* coming off the thermostat. The connector needs to be modified.
A T at the lower port of the upper hose.
A 45 at the coolant bottle.



*edit* 6/07/2017

All's been working flawlessly. No leaks and no issues at all.


2010 135i auto, MHD E40 tune, Fuel-It stg 2 pump, best 1/4 mile 11.863 @ 119.17 mph
new mods this year, VRSF 5" stepped IC, RB EVO inlets, CP-e/Tial CP, 1320 **'s, xhp stg 3 trans tune, E-85 tune
Best 1/8 mile: 7.469 @ 98.56, 1.769 60'
Best 1/4 mile: 11.480 @ 121.79 1.802 60'

Last edited by iminhell1; 06-07-2017 at 02:09 AM..
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datbimmer datbimmer is offline
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Default 12-16-2018, 01:50 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by iminhell1
*edited 05/07/2017

So here is how this can be reworked on factory parts you already have ... you don't have to buy anything (providing you're careful).


This is how you are connected stock,




You'll have to cut all the clamps off the T. The hose going to the overflow will stay with the overflow tank.
Now you'll have to remove the hose from the bottom of the upper radiator hose. Cut the clamp off. This connector will now go to the thermostat and connect to the hose that goes to the lower coolant pipe. You will have to dremel the short pin longer. If you look carefully you'll see the alignment pins are different widths and lengths, it's very slight but matters.

(ignore the parts I used, this was trial fitting)





Now the T will go to the bottom of the upper rad hose,





All factory parts and unmodified hoses. Just need to move them around.



You need a 90* coming off the thermostat. The connector needs to be modified.
A T at the lower port of the upper hose.
A 45 at the coolant bottle.



*edit* 6/07/2017

All's been working flawlessly. No leaks and no issues at all.
Are you still running this setup ? I kinda broke my factory Y connector and I've been looking for a place to buy more of these connectors
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iminhell1 iminhell1 is offline
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Default 04-21-2019, 05:29 PM

Yes. Still working flawlessly.


2010 135i auto, MHD E40 tune, Fuel-It stg 2 pump, best 1/4 mile 11.863 @ 119.17 mph
new mods this year, VRSF 5" stepped IC, RB EVO inlets, CP-e/Tial CP, 1320 **'s, xhp stg 3 trans tune, E-85 tune
Best 1/8 mile: 7.469 @ 98.56, 1.769 60'
Best 1/4 mile: 11.480 @ 121.79 1.802 60'
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Default 04-22-2019, 07:42 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by iminhell1
Yes. Still working flawlessly.
Did you end up using any of those Audi connectors from Dorman? If so, which part numbers?
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Default 04-22-2019, 07:44 AM

If you want to go even more OEMish you can also use a 1M heater line that connects from the firewall to the hose that typically clips into the upper radiator hose. No trimming and has the Y that was intended for the secondary water cooler. Runs just fine :-)

(TOP is OEM, Bottom is the 1M. push adapter removed from Y to accommodate VIE can)






2011 BMW VO 1M
ViE 3884 GTW 67mm 1.0AR Hot Side T51r Mod | PR Coil Packs
JB4 ISO | MHD | PR Stage 4 Elite | DOC Intake Manifold + TiAL + Pi
Seibon Dome Hood | Spec Twin Disk | PSP 900 IC | Slek Front Lip / Diffuser
Apex EC7 Wheels | KW HAS | N55 Mid + Y Pipe | P3 | ADe Catch Can

Last edited by Six Pot; 04-25-2019 at 09:47 PM..
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Default 04-23-2019, 12:42 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by AUbeast86
Did you end up using any of those Audi connectors from Dorman? If so, which part numbers?
Stop touching your car Jason



http://www.fuel-it.biz/

e92 AT 335xi 2.0
Doc Race Kit 6062
Fuel-It!Platinum DIY PI Kit + Stage 2BL
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Default 04-23-2019, 08:35 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave @ BMS/Fuel-It!
Stop touching your car Jason
What, and start touching you?
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iminhell1 iminhell1 is offline
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Default 04-23-2019, 11:24 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by AUbeast86
Did you end up using any of those Audi connectors from Dorman? If so, which part numbers?
No.
Just the OEM ones moved around.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Six Pot
If you want to go even more OEMish you can also use a 1M heater line that connects the from the firewall to the hose that typically clips into the upper radiator hose. No trimming and has the Y that was intended for the secondary water cooler. Runs just fine :-)

(TOP is OEM, Bottom is the 1M. push adapter removed from Y to accommodate VIE can)

This is neat to know. Don't think I've seen it mentioned before.


2010 135i auto, MHD E40 tune, Fuel-It stg 2 pump, best 1/4 mile 11.863 @ 119.17 mph
new mods this year, VRSF 5" stepped IC, RB EVO inlets, CP-e/Tial CP, 1320 **'s, xhp stg 3 trans tune, E-85 tune
Best 1/8 mile: 7.469 @ 98.56, 1.769 60'
Best 1/4 mile: 11.480 @ 121.79 1.802 60'
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Default 04-24-2019, 11:30 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by iminhell1
No.
Just the OEM ones moved around.
Interesting since I assume you ran the hose from the bottom of the coolant res up to the Y connector you relocated to the upper radiator hose. How did that affect filling the coolant system against gravity like that?
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Default 04-25-2019, 09:49 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by AUbeast86
Interesting since I assume you ran the hose from the bottom of the coolant res up to the Y connector you relocated to the upper radiator hose. How did that affect filling the coolant system against gravity like that?
On the 1M pipe it sits lower but I had to run the bleed cycle a couple times and then allow the system to pressurize



2011 BMW VO 1M
ViE 3884 GTW 67mm 1.0AR Hot Side T51r Mod | PR Coil Packs
JB4 ISO | MHD | PR Stage 4 Elite | DOC Intake Manifold + TiAL + Pi
Seibon Dome Hood | Spec Twin Disk | PSP 900 IC | Slek Front Lip / Diffuser
Apex EC7 Wheels | KW HAS | N55 Mid + Y Pipe | P3 | ADe Catch Can
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iminhell1 iminhell1 is offline
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Default 04-27-2019, 04:21 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by AUbeast86
Interesting since I assume you ran the hose from the bottom of the coolant res up to the Y connector you relocated to the upper radiator hose. How did that affect filling the coolant system against gravity like that?
Initially I had no problem, didn't even run the bleed procedure. Just let it sit overnight and check later, level was a tad low. Drove a few times and rechecked, still fine.

But this Winter I boogered up the front and lost coolant. Repaired in it'll work for now fashion and it didn't self bleed as nice. But I didn't have any sit time and it was still warm (therm closed though). Just had to run the bleed a couple times and it was back to good.

Car is my daily and have zero cooling issues with it.


2010 135i auto, MHD E40 tune, Fuel-It stg 2 pump, best 1/4 mile 11.863 @ 119.17 mph
new mods this year, VRSF 5" stepped IC, RB EVO inlets, CP-e/Tial CP, 1320 **'s, xhp stg 3 trans tune, E-85 tune
Best 1/8 mile: 7.469 @ 98.56, 1.769 60'
Best 1/4 mile: 11.480 @ 121.79 1.802 60'
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Default 04-30-2019, 08:22 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by iminhell1
Initially I had no problem, didn't even run the bleed procedure. Just let it sit overnight and check later, level was a tad low. Drove a few times and rechecked, still fine.

But this Winter I boogered up the front and lost coolant. Repaired in it'll work for now fashion and it didn't self bleed as nice. But I didn't have any sit time and it was still warm (therm closed though). Just had to run the bleed a couple times and it was back to good.

Car is my daily and have zero cooling issues with it.
Since I deleted my trans heat exchanger long ago, I ended up running a 5/8 hose from the bottom connector on the coolant expansion tank down to the port in the bottom of the radiator that the heat xchanger used. I also plugged the hose with a that originally ran from the coolant expansion tank to the the 3 way connector that the tstat connects to instead of replacing the 3 way with an elbow. I'll post some pics later. Pretty clean install.
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Default 05-12-2019, 07:45 AM

Here's what I ended up doing...

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]
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iminhell1 iminhell1 is offline
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Default 05-12-2019, 03:50 PM

I switched over to the coolant tube from a manual. No blockoff needed. Stateside can be found for cheap. Downunder, I've no idea. Worth a look though. Just cleaner.


And you have the same issue I do, too many couplers and potential boost leaks.
I bought a ARM lower thinking that it might work, ARM N54 N55 135i 335i FMIC Hose Upgrade

But it's angle is off just enough that it won't work.
Maybe with a cut, twist and reweld of the charge pipe it would. I'm not sure. I can't weld or I'd have dug further into a better solution for the 335d tank guys.

The thing I've also found is you want all T bolt except one worm clamp near the top.
The reason here is the engine will move and flex the couplers. You want the fail point in an easy to access location.
I had mine on the adapter off the intercooler. Had to pull the fan every time it popped loose. I'm pretty quick at it now but PITA the first few times.

And when one does pop off you'll quickly learn that clamp orientation is very important. First time took a nice chunk out of my P/S pulley.


2010 135i auto, MHD E40 tune, Fuel-It stg 2 pump, best 1/4 mile 11.863 @ 119.17 mph
new mods this year, VRSF 5" stepped IC, RB EVO inlets, CP-e/Tial CP, 1320 **'s, xhp stg 3 trans tune, E-85 tune
Best 1/8 mile: 7.469 @ 98.56, 1.769 60'
Best 1/4 mile: 11.480 @ 121.79 1.802 60'
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AUbeast86 AUbeast86 is offline
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Default 05-13-2019, 07:13 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by iminhell1
I switched over to the coolant tube from a manual. No blockoff needed. Stateside can be found for cheap. Downunder, I've no idea. Worth a look though. Just cleaner.


And you have the same issue I do, too many couplers and potential boost leaks.
I bought a ARM lower thinking that it might work, ARM N54 N55 135i 335i FMIC Hose Upgrade

But it's angle is off just enough that it won't work.
Maybe with a cut, twist and reweld of the charge pipe it would. I'm not sure. I can't weld or I'd have dug further into a better solution for the 335d tank guys.

The thing I've also found is you want all T bolt except one worm clamp near the top.
The reason here is the engine will move and flex the couplers. You want the fail point in an easy to access location.
I had mine on the adapter off the intercooler. Had to pull the fan every time it popped loose. I'm pretty quick at it now but PITA the first few times.

And when one does pop off you'll quickly learn that clamp orientation is very important. First time took a nice chunk out of my P/S pulley.
The MT lower coolant pipe is a great idea. Thanks. However, I'd still need to block off the pipe that goes up to the coolant res since I have the 335d tank so Im not sure it's worth it unless you have the part number of the 90* connector that would replace the stock Y one. I see a bunch of part number to Audi connectors in an earlier post but am unsure of which one actually fits.

I'm in the US but I know people think the "AU" in my username is Australia. It's not. I went to Auburn University, AU. Plus, Australia is AUS

Thanks for the advice but in the 8 years I've had this FMIC setup (all aluminum ***** have a bead on them and all my silicone couplers are at least 4 ply, mostly from HPS, and I use the wide t-band clamps), I've never had a boost leak so I'll keep rolling the dice. Also, I'm running a FabFactory intake manifold and charge pipe so everything is custom fabbed to fit. No angle issues.

Last edited by AUbeast86; 05-13-2019 at 07:26 AM..
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iminhell1 iminhell1 is offline
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Default 05-14-2019, 11:03 AM

The Y stays put.
Just cap the line that came from the radiator.
Unless your routing differs from mine.

Coolant went lower plastic tube to trans cooler to radiator. Remove line from tube and line from rad and that's all I had to do.


2010 135i auto, MHD E40 tune, Fuel-It stg 2 pump, best 1/4 mile 11.863 @ 119.17 mph
new mods this year, VRSF 5" stepped IC, RB EVO inlets, CP-e/Tial CP, 1320 **'s, xhp stg 3 trans tune, E-85 tune
Best 1/8 mile: 7.469 @ 98.56, 1.769 60'
Best 1/4 mile: 11.480 @ 121.79 1.802 60'
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