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Terry @ BMS's Avatar
Terry @ BMS Terry @ BMS is offline
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Default 09-14-2020, 09:56 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Djfourmonie
As far as I know most of the parts supplied to Burger for their kits come from Cooling Mist.

So the CM7 or CM10 is the same as a BM7 (640cc) or a BM10 (940cc)

That is why I came to the conclusion I did with my recommendation.
We don't purchase anything from CM, stopped using them a few years ago. I think the last thing we were buying were their nozzles but we do our own in house now.

The ratings are in gallons per hour at 180psi.


Burger Motorsports
Home of the JB4 the worlds most popular turbocharged tuning system!

It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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(#127)
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Djfourmonie Djfourmonie is offline
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Default 09-14-2020, 10:44 AM

Thanks for the clarification. Flow rates are at 180 psi? My calculations are for 200 psi, hmm.
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(#128)
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Default 09-15-2020, 02:02 PM

Close enough. The larger the nozzle size the lower pressure winds up being.


Burger Motorsports
Home of the JB4 the worlds most popular turbocharged tuning system!

It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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(#129)
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AWDGT2 AWDGT2 is offline
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Default 09-16-2020, 01:32 PM

Next WMI question...
I'm currently running the BM7 nozzle and "Boost Additive" at 75. Logs look good and car pulls with no hickups. I'd like to try the BM10 nozzle but I'm not sure if it will be too much. IF it is, can I reduce the "Boost Additive" down to compensate for too much spray?? I'm not 100% sure but I think that's what that setting is for.
Edit....
I think I found the answer after digging deep......

Last edited by AWDGT2; 09-17-2020 at 11:51 AM.. Reason: update
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(#130)
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Djfourmonie Djfourmonie is offline
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Default 09-21-2020, 04:43 PM

Question to those with a Gamma (1.6T) or even a Veloster N that have installed BMS water-methanol system.

I bought my system piecemeal because California has made it very punitive to sell so-called off-road only parts in-state.

Anyway, I have all the hardware here. I have two issues -

1) The FBS is not the oldest or original unit but it's not the newest version as seen on the website. Example, the wire that goes to the positive wire on the pump is yellow, not red like on the latest version.

The blue and orange wires that need to be added to the JB4 harness don't have pins attached to them, just bare wires.

Does the new FSB have ready to install wires with pins installed or did you have to add pins to the wires?

2) Did you tapped one of the power outlets in the fuse box and did you use an add-a-circuit?

If so which one and do you have a part number? I have a Littelfuse mini add-a-circuit but it's clearly larger than the nano fuses the car uses.

These are the only two things stopping me from installing the system. It's Monday and I fear I won't have it installed by Weds when I finally take the car to the drag strip.
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(#131)
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Lil Ripper's Avatar
Lil Ripper Lil Ripper is offline
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Default 09-21-2020, 06:42 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Djfourmonie
Question to those with a Gamma (1.6T) or even a Veloster N that have installed BMS water-methanol system.

I bought my system piecemeal because California has made it very punitive to sell so-called off-road only parts in-state.

Anyway, I have all the hardware here. I have two issues -

1) The FBS is not the oldest or original unit but it's not the newest version as seen on the website. Example, the wire that goes to the positive wire on the pump is yellow, not red like on the latest version.

The blue and orange wires that need to be added to the JB4 harness don't have pins attached to them, just bare wires.

Does the new FSB have ready to install wires with pins installed or did you have to add pins to the wires?

2) Did you tapped one of the power outlets in the fuse box and did you use an add-a-circuit?

If so which one and do you have a part number? I have a Littelfuse mini add-a-circuit but it's clearly larger than the nano fuses the car uses.

These are the only two things stopping me from installing the system. It's Monday and I fear I won't have it installed by Weds when I finally take the car to the drag strip.
Yellow wire to red wire on pump

Red fsb wire too power from micro fuse tap in your fuse box. I used my vaccum pump location to get power.

Pins should be already installed on the orange and blue wires that go to jb4
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(#132)
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Djfourmonie Djfourmonie is offline
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Default 09-21-2020, 11:43 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lil Ripper
Yellow wire to red wire on pump

Red fsb wire too power from micro fuse tap in your fuse box. I used my vacuum pump location to get power.

Pins should be already installed on the orange and blue wires that go to jb4
I know the yellow wire goes to the red wire on the pump.

My FSB doesn't have any pins, just bare wire. Like I said the mini add-circuit is too large, instead of mini I need micro add-a-circuit. I wanted to know what part number you used?
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(#133)
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Lil Ripper Lil Ripper is offline
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Default 09-22-2020, 12:27 AM

No part number for a micro fuse tap. I went to a local audio/visual store that does stereo installs etc. They sold me one for $20.

As far as the fsb pins go....maybe get a pig tail from BMS? Or try a shop that does audio/video etc installs.
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(#134)
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Djfourmonie Djfourmonie is offline
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Default 09-23-2020, 11:00 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lil Ripper
No part number for a micro fuse tap. I went to a local audio/visual store that does stereo installs etc. They sold me one for $20.

As far as the fsb pins go....maybe get a pig tail from BMS? Or try a shop that does audio/video etc installs.
I have everything here. I need pins for the connector that's all. The car audio installer I work with is bogged down, so I will have to track down somebody else.

Oh well, temps are good for tonight, I'll just to make do with inlets around 110 or so degrees.
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(#135)
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Lil Ripper Lil Ripper is offline
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Default 09-23-2020, 07:58 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Djfourmonie
I have everything here. I need pins for the connector that's all. The car audio installer I work with is bogged down, so I will have to track down somebody else.

Oh well, temps are good for tonight, I'll just to make do with inlets around 110 or so degrees.

Good luck! Let me know how you make out
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(#136)
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Djfourmonie Djfourmonie is offline
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Default 09-24-2020, 12:43 PM

Well things didn't go like I thought they would -

1) Wheel Hop

I knew that would happen even with drag radials.

2) JB4 Wiring was backwards

I removed it to install the WMI FBS but I slapped it back in and wired it wrong.

3) Didn't turn off traction control. Makes it impossible to do a burnouts to heat up said drag radials


First pass was 14.83@94.4 which sounds okay if the car was stock. The ET is more indicative of no wheel spin on the 1-2 shift and my special blend ment no knock. The drag radials were 30 psi for that run so they weren't slowing the car down.


I was only able to get one more run. I drove around the water box and dropped the cold pressure to 25 psi. Did a dry hop and it did wheel hop so it really was a dry hop...

It ran 15.88@88 mph because for some reason I missed shifting into 4th.

I left the house later than I wanted so I didn't get there until around 6pm. They had some club show up and make their own class so that curtailed how many time only passes.

Fixing the wheel hop is number 1. I can run slicks as an alternative but I have committed to making drag radials work on a FWD car where others have failed.

I can make them not hop and produce short times like a slick but don't slow the car down because cold psi won't be 10-12 psi, it will be 15-20 psi. I don't know what the tire likes best yet so I have to give a range.

Redemption is what I want, this sort of thing has happen before.

My SRT-4 purchased used suffered from boost leaks and ran mid to high 14's. I fixed the leaks and with Stage 1 + Wastegate ran high 13's on slicks, added a Super AFC Neo to fix the overich condition and it ran 13.0's at altitude and 12.7-12.8 closer to sea level.

My Focus ST had similar electronic nannies you have to disable to use slicks or drag radials. On a E30 tune, slicks on another stock and brand new Focus ST (2016) I ran 13.98. Once I figured out why I couldn't do a burn out it was too late to improve on it that day. But over the next 3-4 months I worked that down to 13.4 in that configuration and then 13.14 with a ********.

Both of those cars had WMI and could have run quicker. But I never hooked up the Cooling Mist system in the Neon SRT-4, it sat unused in the trunk because I didn't want to drill a hole in my new silicone boost hoses.

On the Focus ST I thought pulling the fluid from the top of the washer tank would be okay. It created all sort of flow problems, eventually burning up the AEM provided pump.

I thought I'd jump a head by buying a BMS WMI ment for a BMW from FB Marketplace. But it turns out the pump is missing a lock ring where you put the hose on one side. That's a fairly easy to repair but since I had planned to use WMI on the Cobalt SS, I opted for a new pump from Pro Meth.

That's why getting the pins for the two wires that you put into the connector for the JB4 has stopped me from installing it. There's the other issue of drilling holes in my brand new car to mount the 2.5 gallon tank. But the electronic part is the main issue and that's why I took the JB4 out in the first place.

So this isn't the first time I've gone to the track and things didn't go as planned.
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(#137)
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Lil Ripper's Avatar
Lil Ripper Lil Ripper is offline
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Default 09-24-2020, 02:58 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Djfourmonie
Well things didn't go like I thought they would -

1) Wheel Hop

I knew that would happen even with drag radials.

2) JB4 Wiring was backwards

I removed it to install the WMI FBS but I slapped it back in and wired it wrong.

3) Didn't turn off traction control. Makes it impossible to do a burnouts to heat up said drag radials


First pass was 14.83@94.4 which sounds okay if the car was stock. The ET is more indicative of no wheel spin on the 1-2 shift and my special blend ment no knock. The drag radials were 30 psi for that run so they weren't slowing the car down.


I was only able to get one more run. I drove around the water box and dropped the cold pressure to 25 psi. Did a dry hop and it did wheel hop so it really was a dry hop...

It ran 15.88@88 mph because for some reason I missed shifting into 4th.

I left the house later than I wanted so I didn't get there until around 6pm. They had some club show up and make their own class so that curtailed how many time only passes.

Fixing the wheel hop is number 1. I can run slicks as an alternative but I have committed to making drag radials work on a FWD car where others have failed.

I can make them not hop and produce short times like a slick but don't slow the car down because cold psi won't be 10-12 psi, it will be 15-20 psi. I don't know what the tire likes best yet so I have to give a range.

Redemption is what I want, this sort of thing has happen before.

My SRT-4 purchased used suffered from boost leaks and ran mid to high 14's. I fixed the leaks and with Stage 1 + Wastegate ran high 13's on slicks, added a Super AFC Neo to fix the overich condition and it ran 13.0's at altitude and 12.7-12.8 closer to sea level.

My Focus ST had similar electronic nannies you have to disable to use slicks or drag radials. On a E30 tune, slicks on another stock and brand new Focus ST (2016) I ran 13.98. Once I figured out why I couldn't do a burn out it was too late to improve on it that day. But over the next 3-4 months I worked that down to 13.4 in that configuration and then 13.14 with a ********.

Both of those cars had WMI and could have run quicker. But I never hooked up the Cooling Mist system in the Neon SRT-4, it sat unused in the trunk because I didn't want to drill a hole in my new silicone boost hoses.

On the Focus ST I thought pulling the fluid from the top of the washer tank would be okay. It created all sort of flow problems, eventually burning up the AEM provided pump.

I thought I'd jump a head by buying a BMS WMI ment for a BMW from FB Marketplace. But it turns out the pump is missing a lock ring where you put the hose on one side. That's a fairly easy to repair but since I had planned to use WMI on the Cobalt SS, I opted for a new pump from Pro Meth.

That's why getting the pins for the two wires that you put into the connector for the JB4 has stopped me from installing it. There's the other issue of drilling holes in my brand new car to mount the 2.5 gallon tank. But the electronic part is the main issue and that's why I took the JB4 out in the first place.

So this isn't the first time I've gone to the track and things didn't go as planned.

Ah well, at least you got out. I came too the conclusion I didn't want methanol in my trunk as I need the space and wanted too run %100 percent meth at the strip. Sooo I just drilled and tapped my washer fluid tank.

I tried e50 and %100 meth and had huge traction problems with the stock all season tires at 28psi. Plus it would blow right by the 6200rpm shift point and hit 6500rpm and hit fuel cut. Which in turn toasted one of my plugs. But did run a 13.9 @104.4 mph. Not my best et but best mph.
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(#138)
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wardyl36 wardyl36 is offline
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Default 09-27-2020, 04:14 PM

What is the wmi hose that is used in the burger kit? I'm installing it now and need to get some more after rerouting to look cleaner? It seems to be 1/4 dia.
Thanks
Warren
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(#139)
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Djfourmonie Djfourmonie is offline
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Default 09-27-2020, 04:54 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by wardyl36
What is the wmi hose that is used in the burger kit? I'm installing it now and need to get some more after rerouting to look cleaner? It seems to be 1/4 dia.
Thanks
Warren
https://burgertuning.com/collections...nol-line-spool
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(#140)
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wardyl36 wardyl36 is offline
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Default 10-05-2020, 02:14 PM

What pins do I use on the jb4 if I already have ewg wires in 14 and 9? I think those were the numbers in the manual
Thanks
Warren
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(#141)
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wardyl36 wardyl36 is offline
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Default 10-05-2020, 04:35 PM

I found it, was missing some pages of the I install guide.
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(#142)
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neonland neonland is offline
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Default 10-09-2020, 09:53 AM

With the right configuration any benefits to running dual #7 nozzles vs single #10?

3.3tt Stinger
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(#143)
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Terry @ BMS's Avatar
Terry @ BMS Terry @ BMS is offline
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Default 10-09-2020, 01:12 PM

Depends on the boost levels being run and fuel being used. You'd want to evaluate your BM10 log to see if timing is being maxed out at the boost and octane levels.


Burger Motorsports
Home of the JB4 the worlds most popular turbocharged tuning system!

It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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(#144)
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Djfourmonie Djfourmonie is offline
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Default 10-09-2020, 02:04 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by neonland
With the right configuration any benefits to running dual #7 nozzles vs single #10?

3.3tt Stinger
Looking at Terry's run at Shift Sector log (1/2 mile racing, the log pull you see on the website) his inlet temps dropped from 150 down to 95 degrees, which is good but you can do better, more flow is warranted.

What are you temps now?
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(#145)
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wardyl36 wardyl36 is offline
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Default 10-09-2020, 05:31 PM

I'm planning to make the first run Sunday at the track. I currently have 50 set like manual suggests, running 93 octane currently on map 2 without issues. What has everyone been running with that octane level 60 -75% . I may get some higher octane for the day but not sure yet.
Thanks
Warren
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(#146)
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AWDGT2 AWDGT2 is offline
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Default 10-10-2020, 06:38 AM

I ran 70 and 75% with E30 and I had no issues. Without the snip I ran a 12.01 with that setup. Without the octane try 60 then 65, ect and review your logs for timing anomalies.
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(#147)
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wardyl36 wardyl36 is offline
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Default 10-10-2020, 11:32 AM

Obviously the timing numbers should all be within one another, what is a good number to be seeing? I'm guessing air fuel ratio should be 11.5 to 1?
Thanks
For the help
Warren
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(#148)
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AWDGT2 AWDGT2 is offline
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Default 10-11-2020, 07:09 AM

They try and keep it around 11.9 if I'm not mistaken but a few points up or down are fine. Timing will vary depending on boost but just incase you haven't seen this Kia/Hyundai JB4 Logging Parameters - N54Tech.com - International Turbo Racing Discussion

Last edited by AWDGT2; 10-11-2020 at 07:20 AM..
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(#149)
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h1dden87 h1dden87 is offline
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Default help - 10-11-2020, 10:09 PM

i need some tuning help / advise please.

current mods:
jb4 / map 7 - boost add 75 - 93+e30 pump gas
hks m45il plugs (brand new)
secondaries and catback
intakes
mishimoto intercooler

currently i have a single bm10 nozzle running straight into the bung on the mishi charge pipe. my meth flow is good and i have no issues as far as i can tell with my current meth setup.

my problem is im getting some serious timing issues even on map 0, its so strange because the timing looks nearly identical to me from map 0 vs running map 7. i have attached a log if anyone cares to take a look...with this setup i don't feel like i should have this much timing being pulled. especially on map 0....i feel like im missing something simple here....
Attached Files
File Type: csv P21_M7_R14_201010_1652.csv (152.8 KB, 7 views)
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(#150)
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AWDGT2 AWDGT2 is offline
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Default 10-12-2020, 10:28 AM

Is this a Stinger or Hyundai?
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