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Default 10-01-2013, 11:56 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by buster84
That seems strange considering i road with the walbro in my car for 2 days on the stock tune when i first installed it. Never had any codes. I'm guessing that its something else, I have yet to do my valves but the codes i was getting last thur/friday/saturday are no longer showing up. Well if it shows back up then look into injector cleaning, and intake valve cleaning.
have you changed your ECU or you use stock one?


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Default 10-02-2013, 12:13 AM

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Originally Posted by -=Goo$e=-
have you changed your ECU or you use stock one?
It's stock.


2009 335i X-Drive | GC 2.0 Turbos | VTT silicone Inlets | VTT Aluminum Outlets | Fuel It PI with FPR,return line, BMS controller, and flex fuel sensor | Fuel It Stage 3 fuel pump | BMS dual cone instakes | BMS Catch Can | VRSF 7.5" Race Intercooler | Forge Diverter Valves | JB4 G5 ISO with Blutooth/JB4 Mobile App | n20 tmap sensor 3.5 bar | AR After turbo Exhaust
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Default 10-02-2013, 12:31 AM

OpenFlash With Flex Fuel Flash - it is in your signature?


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Default 10-02-2013, 01:40 AM

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Originally Posted by -=Goo$e=-
OpenFlash With Flex Fuel Flash - it is in your signature?
Yup, thats what im running now. Never had any issue's with it. No codes or anything. Although my car has only been modded for about 1k now. When i first installed the walbro i ran it stock for 2 days before my open flash showed up, then a week later i got my flex kit. The only issues ive had recently were miss fire codes and im sure thats related to my valves. I'm hoping to get to them this weekend, but if i do ill upload pics. I'm sure they look Terrible after 65k miles lol. Ive only owned it for 20k, im just guessing the previous owner never did it.

I actually wanted a Jb4, but that was after i ordered the openflash. I bought my car last year, and just recently looked up mods, and the openflash was the first thing i noticed (plus it seemed easier to install) so i ordered it. Then after a few days i wished i had gotten the jb4, but im not one to return things so i kept it. I e-mailed terry about a back end flash through the openflash and he said he planned to release it but I could tell that he was all caught up in the BT flash program that he was just to busy to deal with the very small few who might have one, and im not even sure if he ever got the time to get around to it. With that in mind though i decided that i didn't want to chance waiting a long time and decided just to get the flex kit and the procede from shiv (basically making my openflash the backend flash use only)


2009 335i X-Drive | GC 2.0 Turbos | VTT silicone Inlets | VTT Aluminum Outlets | Fuel It PI with FPR,return line, BMS controller, and flex fuel sensor | Fuel It Stage 3 fuel pump | BMS dual cone instakes | BMS Catch Can | VRSF 7.5" Race Intercooler | Forge Diverter Valves | JB4 G5 ISO with Blutooth/JB4 Mobile App | n20 tmap sensor 3.5 bar | AR After turbo Exhaust

Last edited by buster84; 10-02-2013 at 01:49 AM..
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Default 10-08-2013, 12:08 AM

On weekend did intake valve cleaning - was expecting much worse, but it was still misfiring. Yesterday have changed all the injectors for the new generation - pretty expensive but very effective - now misfirings are gone and everythung works smooth. Now thinking about the reasons for injectors failure (4-5-6) - whether it was caused by time or my experiment with the walbro


N54 JB4 G5 ISO, BMS flash, cpe *********, cpe intercooler, cpe intake, bms dual cones, tial blowoff, coolingmist meth, hartge catback, derestricted midpipes,bms oilcatch, P3 vent gauge, KW var2, LSD quaife
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dsjr2006 dsjr2006 is offline
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Default Bundy Connector Issues - 10-08-2013, 07:21 PM

Started my Inline LPFP install, but ran into an issue. I cannot get the large fuel line connector off on top. I attempted pushing them in...didn't work so I pulled outward with small screwdrivers which results in both sides breaking. The connector is still securely fastened though. So now I'm trying to figure out how to remove and replace that connector... pics below.

Should I just break the connector and replace it, or replace the hose and connector? Is the hose actually 5/16" like the rest or 3/8"?



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Default 10-08-2013, 08:40 PM

ouch...I can't look at mine right now...but I'll bet you can use a screw driver (or 2) to press in a release the clasps just as the stock plastic button does. Just be patient.



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Default 10-08-2013, 10:34 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by dsjr2006
Started my Inline LPFP install, but ran into an issue. I cannot get the large fuel line connector off on top. I attempted pushing them in...didn't work so I pulled outward with small screwdrivers which results in both sides breaking. The connector is still securely fastened though. So now I'm trying to figure out how to remove and replace that connector... pics below.

Should I just break the connector and replace it, or replace the hose and connector? Is the hose actually 5/16" like the rest or 3/8"?
You just need to replace the clip, you can buy them online or at the dealer. Your actually supposed to push the clip in and lift. Nothing more to it. Since you pulled the clip you broke it you have to remove the two side pieces now then replace it.

Next time push on the clip, its like a button.


2009 335i X-Drive | GC 2.0 Turbos | VTT silicone Inlets | VTT Aluminum Outlets | Fuel It PI with FPR,return line, BMS controller, and flex fuel sensor | Fuel It Stage 3 fuel pump | BMS dual cone instakes | BMS Catch Can | VRSF 7.5" Race Intercooler | Forge Diverter Valves | JB4 G5 ISO with Blutooth/JB4 Mobile App | n20 tmap sensor 3.5 bar | AR After turbo Exhaust
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Default 10-09-2013, 05:10 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by buster84
You just need to replace the clip, you can buy them online or at the dealer. Your actually supposed to push the clip in and lift. Nothing more to it. Since you pulled the clip you broke it you have to remove the two side pieces now then replace it.

Next time push on the clip, its like a button.
There are relatively large piece still stuck inside both sides, which I've tried pulling out with needle nose pliers and pushing through with tiny screwdrivers with no luck. Anyone have a clue what the part number for these is? Something told me to keep pushing, but I read on another thread that you can pull them out too...
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Default 10-09-2013, 10:54 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by dsjr2006
Started my Inline LPFP install, but ran into an issue. I cannot get the large fuel line connector off on top. I attempted pushing them in...didn't work so I pulled outward with small screwdrivers which results in both sides breaking. The connector is still securely fastened though. So now I'm trying to figure out how to remove and replace that connector... pics below.

Should I just break the connector and replace it, or replace the hose and connector? Is the hose actually 5/16" like the rest or 3/8"?



Quote:
Originally Posted by dsjr2006
There are relatively large piece still stuck inside both sides, which I've tried pulling out with needle nose pliers and pushing through with tiny screwdrivers with no luck. Anyone have a clue what the part number for these is? Something told me to keep pushing, but I read on another thread that you can pull them out too...
The way the clips work is that when you push on it the two pieces on the other side push outwards. This is also how you would remove the clip, you have to push both sides outwards then push in at the same time in order to release the clip and pull it out. These clips are a pain in the butt on some cars and some people just arn't able to push the clip in with their fingers hard enough (my guess is big fingers). Since your clip is already broken, just stick a small flat head in and push it out. They will not be easy to remove now that the end is broken, but make sure your pushing the same direction you would if you were trying to remove the clip before it broke.


2009 335i X-Drive | GC 2.0 Turbos | VTT silicone Inlets | VTT Aluminum Outlets | Fuel It PI with FPR,return line, BMS controller, and flex fuel sensor | Fuel It Stage 3 fuel pump | BMS dual cone instakes | BMS Catch Can | VRSF 7.5" Race Intercooler | Forge Diverter Valves | JB4 G5 ISO with Blutooth/JB4 Mobile App | n20 tmap sensor 3.5 bar | AR After turbo Exhaust
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Default 10-09-2013, 12:16 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveAZ
Yeah, that's weird. When I initially googled it I saw people talking about injector issues and that would make sense if air was in the lines or what have you.

I looked again and found this...

30BA DME digital motor electronics, internal failure
30BB DME digital motor electronics, internal failure

Kind of strange...the only time I've really heard of anything like that is with the 07 335i's that have a mosfet go bad in the DME for a particular injector.

Doesn't really sound like that is the case here though...did you pull any fuses when doing this or disconnect the battery?
Hey steve, where did you get this fuel line at?

I bought a walbro e85 pump and im going to install it in the car with the inline setup. I'll be doing a write up on it and making sure its a viable solution. I'm only doing it since i already have the inline pump setup and my stock pump is getting weak. If i can get that line locally i might just use it, but if not I'll just use the extra gates hose i have laying around and if its snug on the venturi I'll just use some gas sealant.
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2009 335i X-Drive | GC 2.0 Turbos | VTT silicone Inlets | VTT Aluminum Outlets | Fuel It PI with FPR,return line, BMS controller, and flex fuel sensor | Fuel It Stage 3 fuel pump | BMS dual cone instakes | BMS Catch Can | VRSF 7.5" Race Intercooler | Forge Diverter Valves | JB4 G5 ISO with Blutooth/JB4 Mobile App | n20 tmap sensor 3.5 bar | AR After turbo Exhaust
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Default 10-09-2013, 02:16 PM

That was actually a section of the stock fuel line I was no longer using.

If you're going to go that route, get a good Teflon or PTFE tubing.

Also, in hind sight I would attach the venturi to the middle of that tee and if possible, get a reducing tee or put in a restriction to the venturi pickup.



Click on our banner to visit our website!
Video of our Stage 2 LPFP upgrade installation.

BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways.
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Default 10-09-2013, 02:50 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveAZ
That was actually a section of the stock fuel line I was no longer using.

If you're going to go that route, get a good Teflon or PTFE tubing.

Also, in hind sight I would attach the venturi to the middle of that tee and if possible, get a reducing tee or put in a restriction to the venturi pickup.
Ohh. Ok, I'll probably just use my gates hose that i have sitting here then. Although i cut it in half I'll figure it out lol.

Why would a restriction be a good idea on the venturi? Isn't the small venturi port at the bottom already a restriction?


2009 335i X-Drive | GC 2.0 Turbos | VTT silicone Inlets | VTT Aluminum Outlets | Fuel It PI with FPR,return line, BMS controller, and flex fuel sensor | Fuel It Stage 3 fuel pump | BMS dual cone instakes | BMS Catch Can | VRSF 7.5" Race Intercooler | Forge Diverter Valves | JB4 G5 ISO with Blutooth/JB4 Mobile App | n20 tmap sensor 3.5 bar | AR After turbo Exhaust
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Default 10-09-2013, 03:45 PM

It is...but I literally blew it apart when experimenting. You also don't need that much flow through it, and flow diverted from it, is flow directed to the motor. The good news was even though I blew the venturi apart, none of the lines or clamps were compromised in the process...which was also an indication of how susceptible that venturi is.

If I were to go that route again, I'd do it pretty much just as I had but rotate the tee, and put in a reducer between the tee and the venturi if I were unable to find a tee that already had one.



Click on our banner to visit our website!
Video of our Stage 2 LPFP upgrade installation.

BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways.
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Default 12-23-2013, 06:10 PM

I will be redoing this entire DIY over the holidays. I think I've purchased every possible piece of hardware that could be required to prepare, just in case people like to break ****.


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Default 12-27-2013, 07:09 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Feshdogg
I will be redoing this entire DIY over the holidays. I think I've purchased every possible piece of hardware that could be required to prepare, just in case people like to break ****.
Yes, please! I'm in need of booster pump and ready to do inline.


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Default 12-27-2013, 02:20 PM

I am keen for a refresher too, I have all the bits for a few months now but I cannot find any gasoline or oil resistant wire in Oz. Is it imperative to use? I understand why you would but has anyone used standard wire and checked it later to see if it has dissolved the sheath?
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Default 02-15-2014, 08:57 PM

DIY is obsolete!

Please visit: http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23223


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Default 07-08-2020, 07:25 AM

I know I'm reviving an old thread......

How reliable is the DIY route vs. just buying a complete and ready to go Fuel-It Stage-2 setup?

After doing some research…..it sounds like if I just do the DIY Walbro 450 swap into the stock bucket, I will need to run a special hose if I want to run an e85 blend tune? OR do you only have issues if you run straight e85?

If so….what hose should I run, and where can I get it? And then people talk about clamps coming off…and being stranded on the side of the road?

Is the DIY setup any less reliable than the Fuel-It? Is all of that “clamps will come off, and hoses will break” talk about the DIY way just talk? Or is there some truth in that?

I figure that this thread is old enough....there are several people who have plenty of miles on the DIY setup.....just trying to figure out which way I want to go. My LPFP is starting to get weak....

Thanks!


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Default 07-09-2020, 06:28 AM

after pulling mine out no less than 5 times to fix / replace the line, I just bought the fuel it kit (actually went stage 3).

It's not worth it if it isn't 100% reliable, and I always had a fear that it was going to rip or break again. To me, that's worth something.


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Exclamation 07-09-2020, 10:50 AM

What issues did you have? Did the clamps come off? Did the hose get soft? How did you have it plumbed? Did you have the Venturi T'd in, or did you do the open bucket type setup with no Venturi?

Any details would be great!


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Default 07-09-2020, 10:58 AM

It's been 4-5 years since i've done it, and have since sold the car. The line would actually rip (and yes it was an ethanol line) because of the sharper bend.


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Default 07-09-2020, 12:16 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by dkfx
It's been 4-5 years since i've done it, and have since sold the car. The line would actually rip (and yes it was an ethanol line) because of the sharper bend.
I'm cutting the bottom out of the bucket, and not plumbing in the venturi with a T....so I'm getting rid of a lot of failure points.

I'm coming right off of the Walbro pump with a 90 degree fitting, and then to a barbed fitting that hooks to the oem quick disconnect hose fitting.....so I'm only going to have one little small straight section of hose. This should be much simpler than keeping the bottom in the bucket, and hooking up that venturi with a T fitting, multiple sections of hose, and multiple clamps....that's a lot of stuff to fail over time.

I'll have to post some pictures next week when ever I start working on it.


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