N54Tech.com - International Turbo Racing Discussion
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mixhali mixhali is offline
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Default New to JB4 & 335. Need some advice - 11-07-2013, 08:42 AM

Hi guys, I have read many posts on this forum finding similar problems to mine however want to be sure about the course of action to remedy the situation. I have a 2009 335 with 80k,KM on the clock. I recently acquired a second hand jb4, loom and USB cable. The juice box board has v1.1 on it. Anyhow I followed the instructions to install and was pretty dam impressed with the results on Map1. However pretty quick I was met with problems. It appears my car is misfiring based on the descriptions in other threads. When i really push it hard the car sort of gives up and then it is running very very rough to the point of nearly stalling. A quick restart of the engine from complete ignition off seems to remedy the problem and I'm back to a perfect running car. I have pulled the codes and i get all misfires: 29CE, 29B1 (Cant Identify this code), 29CC, 29D0. All reports in this forum seem to point towards plugs or coil packs. I can't understand though if it is plugs or coil pack why the issue is immediately resolved with a engine restart.

Also regarding my JB4, I can't seem to find what all the settings are. I have found the list of all the settings for the G5 ISO version however i'm not 100% that all the same options exist for my JB4 V1.1 board. Also How can i confirm the flash version and also find the latest available flash for that board, again I only seem to be able to find details for the G5 board on this matter.

Any help appreciated.
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blown07's Avatar
blown07 blown07 is offline
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Default 11-07-2013, 10:07 AM

There are many on the board waaay smarter than me but I will ask a stupid question. Are you sure your JB4 board is ISO (diodes clipped) if you are running ISO HEX file?


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Russell @ BMS's Avatar
Russell @ BMS Russell @ BMS is offline
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Cool 11-07-2013, 07:09 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by mixhali
Hi guys, I have read many posts on this forum finding similar problems to mine however want to be sure about the course of action to remedy the situation. I have a 2009 335 with 80k,KM on the clock. I recently acquired a second hand jb4, loom and USB cable. The juice box board has v1.1 on it. Anyhow I followed the instructions to install and was pretty dam impressed with the results on Map1. However pretty quick I was met with problems. It appears my car is misfiring based on the descriptions in other threads. When i really push it hard the car sort of gives up and then it is running very very rough to the point of nearly stalling. A quick restart of the engine from complete ignition off seems to remedy the problem and I'm back to a perfect running car. I have pulled the codes and i get all misfires: 29CE, 29B1 (Cant Identify this code), 29CC, 29D0. All reports in this forum seem to point towards plugs or coil packs. I can't understand though if it is plugs or coil pack why the issue is immediately resolved with a engine restart.

Also regarding my JB4, I can't seem to find what all the settings are. I have found the list of all the settings for the G5 ISO version however i'm not 100% that all the same options exist for my JB4 V1.1 board. Also How can i confirm the flash version and also find the latest available flash for that board, again I only seem to be able to find details for the G5 board on this matter.

Any help appreciated.
Get a windows based computer and Terry's USB cable.
Load up the logging AP from this site and follow the directions for connecting to the JB4.
Do one log and the software version will included in the saved log file (.csv) file.


Burger Motorsports
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mixhali mixhali is offline
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Default 11-07-2013, 09:32 PM

Thanks Russell. If im right i think i already have the USB cable, DB9 - USB right. I will try this over the weekend

Blown07, From what i have reaqd my board cannot support the g5 ISO version. Correct me if I'm wrong anyone!. My board has only one of the two diodes mentioned so am not sure i can just cut the one and acheive the same.

Regards
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Dmac @ BMS/DMD's Avatar
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Default 11-07-2013, 10:02 PM

My car is doing the same thing. My misfire was on cylinder 1 at first. I swapped the coil pack from cylinder 1 to cylinder 2. The misfire now happens on cylinder 2. So it's a bad coil pack (I'm getting the new one saturday). Shutting the car down gives the engine a chance to "reset" I suppose. Swapping a coil pack is incredibly easy on this car.


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VM 6466 Single Turbo Kit | JB4 | BMS Flash via MHD | Fuel-It Stage 3 | BMS Port Injection | E85


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mixhali mixhali is offline
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Default 11-24-2013, 07:44 AM

HI all, I have installed the USB cable and have logged a run with the issue im experiencing. I'm struggling to come to terms with the fact that there is something wrong with an engine component such as plug or coil pack with the way the problem exhibits itself. Im wondering if i have a faulty jb4 actually. The car runs flawlessly with the jb4 set to map0. NO matte rhow hard i push it i cant get it to log any fault codes, however as soon as i turn the JB4 to map 1 and floor it, the car coughs and splutters. Then i need to restart the car in order to restore order. https://www.dropbox.com/s/2uc9pt0v8dlmx4w/map1.csv

Last edited by mixhali; 11-24-2013 at 07:44 AM.. Reason: Add picture
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Salt1972 Salt1972 is offline
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Default 11-24-2013, 12:38 PM

I am far from an expert, but I, too, had misfire issues for about 6 months after I installed my JB4. I replaced several coils and had just about given up when I decided to replace the plugs. I waited on the plugs because my BMW SA said they only had 6k miles on them. I replaced the plugs and voila... no more misfires. BTW- I could not reproduce ANY misfire issues when set to Map 0.

Terry was kind enough to point out that a misfire is a plug, coil, or injector. You can move them around to troubleshoot and/or replace in order of least to most expense.
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mixhali mixhali is offline
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Default 11-29-2013, 11:29 PM

HI Guys Quick update and a plea for more advice! I Had the plugs replaced this morning. All were stuffed so I was feeling positive it would fix my issue. When I left the workshop I drove it on map 0 for a while just to get a feel for it. It seemed to be much smoother driving. I then changed to map 1 and gave it a run. It pulled real hard without any misfire. On my second run from standstill I noticed that under high rev the noise from the engine seems to be louder than usual with map 0 Particularly from the passenger side of the car. (note mine is right hand drive). ON my 3rd run giving it the stick, I got a backfire then a 30ff code occurred and since then I have no boost. Even after restart the car immediately has no boost. Did I blow my turbos?
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Default 11-30-2013, 04:16 AM

Pretty sure thats a boost leak code. Check your charge pipe to see if its loose or damaged.


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mixhali mixhali is offline
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Default 11-30-2013, 04:20 AM

Im pretty sure also it isa boost leak. I'm new to then54 so not100% clef up on the boost circuit. which pipe is the charge pipe? Is it accessible from the engine bay or do you need to look from under?
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DanL DanL is offline
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Default 11-30-2013, 06:10 AM

Checking, and if necessary, replacing the charge pipe is easy once you remove the air filter housing. There are a number of DIY write-ups out there -- simply google "n54 charge pipe install".


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mixhali mixhali is offline
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Default 12-01-2013, 05:17 AM

Thanks guys for your help. Found the culprit after taking of the air box. The charge pipe has snapped clean off the throttle body. I'm currently waiting for the epoxy resin i used to clue it back together to get me through till I order a new aftermarket one. Don't fancy ordering another from BMW as I guess it will only break again. Any suggestions on which one is good value? Im looking at the one listed at burger Motorsport for 235.
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Default 12-01-2013, 07:37 PM

Glad you got it figured out. Hard to go wrong with the BMS charge pipe. Good value and design. Just keep your boost down until you can get a replacement.



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LAZ LAZ is offline
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Default 12-02-2013, 10:36 AM

I used to get misfires aswell when going WOT in low gears using map 2 (14.5 psi). Map 1 worked great all day every day from any gear at WOT but once i started using Map 2 it was a different story. This is when my weak spots of my car started to show. I would be able to go WOT starting at 60mph with no issues but once i tried doing WOT from 50mph or below, MISFIRE! . I replaced the spark plugs and coils and it didnt fix the issue. it turns out i have a bad fuel injector. I have been able to "mask" the issue by limiting boost to 13 psi for 1st and 2nd gear, which helps with wheel spin anyway. so now i have no issues. Also, upon installing my JB4 i noticed a lot of codes would pop up for the first month or so. Its almost like the stock DME needed to get used to the changes that the piggyback tune had caused!! but in the meantime it would shoot me codes left and right. Not so much anymore though. Its like the DME and JB4 have learned to become friends!!

Get that charge pipe and have at it! I run meth with e85 at 18.5 psi and went with the BMS charge-pipe elbow and it has held up nicely. It has popped off a couple of times, but replacing the clamps with better ones has kept them on there nice and tight since
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mixhali mixhali is offline
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Default Boost leak still maybe, or faulty TMAP sensor - 12-20-2013, 03:37 AM

Hey guys,

Anyone know what the symptoms would be for a faulty TMAP sensor? Earlier i mentioned i had a split charge pipe. I have since glued it with strong plastic glue while waiting for my new charge pipe. (i live in Malaysia... It takes time) However when i glued it i had a lot of trouble removing the TMAP sensor and when i finally managed to pry it out, it sprung out, hit the wall and bounced to the floor. Since then I have no boost at all according to the boost gauge, car feels like no boost and after about 20 minutes i get a boost under target error.Im not sure if i may still have a boost leak or the sensor is stuffed. Im trying to understand how the system works, If boost is not detected immedietley by the tmap sensor, would the computer disable the turbos? Because thats the only other reason besides still having a boost leak that i can think of as to why i don't have boost. Today i removed one of the blow off valve and observed pressure when the throttle is pressed hard then released. indicating that some boost exists.

Anyone have similar experience?. BTW how much of a boost leak does there need to be for absolutely no boost to exists according to the gauge? Like i said i can feel pressure when i release the throttle at the blow off valve.

Regards
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