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DarkPhantom DarkPhantom is offline
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Default 04-09-2011, 11:13 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry @ BMS
Read the FAQ in the first post!
Yep, I'm blind :P

Thanks!
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Default 04-09-2011, 12:02 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Babyjoe1973
Terry waiting for new MAPs! Olf JB3 Maps were better!

Torben
No way, the JB4 maps are much better!

We have a lot of stuff in the works but can't promise a date for the next map release. Need to get a few more things done first.


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It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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GbreeE90 GbreeE90 is offline
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Default 04-09-2011, 12:21 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Babyjoe1973
Terry waiting for new MAPs! Olf JB3 Maps were better!

Torben
Not sure if serious.
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Jodi Jodi is offline
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Default 04-10-2011, 04:36 AM

Terry, can you give an approximate release date of the next map release?
I am planning to install LSD, FMIC and DP's next weekend and it will be great If I manage to update my JB4.

Thx
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Default 04-10-2011, 09:56 AM

Guys thanks for the answers about map 5 and map 2!

Terry yesterday my cell light was on (i´m sure that it is my ******* DP). I tried to read with my laptop but it said "no code found". Then I tried with the speedo and gave me some codes.
I selected the option "delete codes" with the laptop and bye bye cell light...

Why I cant read the codes with my notebook?
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Default 04-10-2011, 10:01 AM

With the last laptop interface sometimes you need to read it twice for them to display.


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Home of the JB4 the worlds most popular turbocharged tuning system!

It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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Default 04-10-2011, 08:07 PM

I know this had been asked a bunch but when or will we ever get a launch control feature
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Default 04-11-2011, 12:08 AM

I <3 map switch feature via dash.
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Default 04-11-2011, 09:17 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by WDBi
I know this had been asked a bunch but when or will we ever get a launch control feature
There is one in there for automatics running full slicks at the track. Need to do a little more refining though. At the moment people are cutting mid 1.6 60' times without it so hasn't been a big priority. Just brake boost up to 2400rpm and let her rip!


Burger Motorsports
Home of the JB4 the worlds most popular turbocharged tuning system!

It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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Default 04-11-2011, 09:35 AM

I have found the sure fire way to get the best launches with my AT is to wait until the second yello light coming down before you brake hard and time the WOT just right. It is a transition thing ... takes practice ... but I cut better times this way. When brake boosting to 2400 too soon, I'd spin at the starting line, or push myself forward or even push through the lights.

Don't forget the value of the roll out: stage WAY back in the gate, then jump out with WOT on the last yellow light. My best result: 1.50 60' with drag radials at 15 lbs. psi.


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Default 04-11-2011, 02:59 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry @ BMS
There is one in there for automatics running full slicks at the track. Need to do a little more refining though. At the moment people are cutting mid 1.6 60' times without it so hasn't been a big priority. Just brake boost up to 2400rpm and let her rip!
do you need to set something to do this?

Quote:
Originally Posted by OldBooster
I have found the sure fire way to get the best launches with my AT is to wait until the second yello light coming down before you brake hard and time the WOT just right. It is a transition thing ... takes practice ... but I cut better times this way. When brake boosting to 2400 too soon, I'd spin at the starting line, or push myself forward or even push through the lights.

Don't forget the value of the roll out: stage WAY back in the gate, then jump out with WOT on the last yellow light. My best result: 1.50 60' with drag radials at 15 lbs. psi.
so pretty much hit WOT at the last yellow light then release the brakes when green? what do you mean about the gates
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Default 04-11-2011, 03:24 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry @ BMS
There is one in there for automatics running full slicks at the track. Need to do a little more refining though. At the moment people are cutting mid 1.6 60' times without it so hasn't been a big priority. Just brake boost up to 2400rpm and let her rip!
Where can I find more info on this?


2009 135i auto, JB4, DP fix, Code 3 intercooler, RR *********, RR full intake system, custom 3in exhaust with Magnaflow pipe.
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Default 04-11-2011, 03:36 PM

It's blocked out right now until I get a chance to fix a bug. Would sometimes throw a CEL during staging. Not fun. But makes those 1.6 60's turn in to high 1.5s if traction permits. Keep in mind unless you're already running 11.50s or faster its probably not for you.


Burger Motorsports
Home of the JB4 the worlds most popular turbocharged tuning system!

It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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Default 04-11-2011, 04:53 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry @ BMS
It's blocked out right now until I get a chance to fix a bug. Would sometimes throw a CEL during staging. Not fun. But makes those 1.6 60's turn in to high 1.5s if traction permits. Keep in mind unless you're already running 11.50s or faster its probably not for you.
would this help out for xi's with just a jb4/dci? Would be cool to have an actual launch control without brake boosting
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VictorFranko VictorFranko is offline
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Default 04-11-2011, 07:55 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry @ BMS
It's blocked out right now until I get a chance to fix a bug. Would sometimes throw a CEL during staging. Not fun. But makes those 1.6 60's turn in to high 1.5s if traction permits. Keep in mind unless you're already running 11.50s or faster its probably not for you.

Oh yeah. I'd like to improve my 1.6s to 1.5s Where do I sign up?
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Cool 04-11-2011, 08:39 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by OldBooster
I have found the sure fire way to get the best launches with my AT is to wait until the second yello light coming down before you brake hard and time the WOT just right. It is a transition thing ... takes practice ... but I cut better times this way. When brake boosting to 2400 too soon, I'd spin at the starting line, or push myself forward or even push through the lights.

Don't forget the value of the roll out: stage WAY back in the gate, then jump out with WOT on the last yellow light. My best result: 1.50 60' with drag radials at 15 lbs. psi.
Are you starting in first or second gear?


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Home of the Worlds fastest N20s, N54s, N55s, N63s, and S63s!

It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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Default 04-11-2011, 09:06 PM

Hey Terry, what about a real launch control for those with manuals? You know, if I'm sitting at the light with the clutch pedal on the floor waiting for the green, I want it to where when I press the gas pedal to the floor it only goes to a set rpm, ie 4k rpm's if thats where I get my best launch. That way we aren't feathering the gas pedal at the line and trying to watch the tach and the tree at the same time. I want to be able to just floor it and drop the clutch on the green. I have that on my Hondata S300 and it's a really great feature


'07 E90 MT Sports Package l FBO l RB Next Gen Plus l JB4 G5 with DPT E85 BEF l N20 MAP Sensor l MMP Inlets l RB Outlets l Custom Exhaust l NLS & 2-Step l MFactory 3.46 LSD l 335is Clutch with MFactory SMFW l Walbro 450 l Direct Port Meth Injection

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Default 04-12-2011, 05:23 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by az335iat
Are you starting in first or second gear?
I launch in first gear (M1). I've never tried 2nd (M2) gear. But next time I'm racing on street tires I will try it.

When on my DRs, my MTs stick so well (with my LSD) I don't know if M2 launches would be necessary. (What would we do without all these acronyms?)


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Default 04-12-2011, 07:06 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by prelude2perfect
Hey Terry, what about a real launch control for those with manuals? You know, if I'm sitting at the light with the clutch pedal on the floor waiting for the green, I want it to where when I press the gas pedal to the floor it only goes to a set rpm, ie 4k rpm's if thats where I get my best launch. That way we aren't feathering the gas pedal at the line and trying to watch the tach and the tree at the same time. I want to be able to just floor it and drop the clutch on the green. I have that on my Hondata S300 and it's a really great feature
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Default 04-12-2011, 10:30 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by prelude2perfect
Hey Terry, what about a real launch control for those with manuals? You know, if I'm sitting at the light with the clutch pedal on the floor waiting for the green, I want it to where when I press the gas pedal to the floor it only goes to a set rpm, ie 4k rpm's if thats where I get my best launch. That way we aren't feathering the gas pedal at the line and trying to watch the tach and the tree at the same time. I want to be able to just floor it and drop the clutch on the green. I have that on my Hondata S300 and it's a really great feature
Probably isn't going to happen with this platform. Would require lots of work and extra hardware.


Burger Motorsports
Home of the JB4 the worlds most popular turbocharged tuning system!

It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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Default 04-12-2011, 11:58 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry @ BMS
Probably isn't going to happen with this platform. Would require lots of work and extra hardware.
Didn't expect that for an answer at all. I guess that with all the other amazing things you can do with this piggyback I assumed that something that simple wouldn't be hard.


'07 E90 MT Sports Package l FBO l RB Next Gen Plus l JB4 G5 with DPT E85 BEF l N20 MAP Sensor l MMP Inlets l RB Outlets l Custom Exhaust l NLS & 2-Step l MFactory 3.46 LSD l 335is Clutch with MFactory SMFW l Walbro 450 l Direct Port Meth Injection

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Default 04-12-2011, 01:16 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry @ BMS
Probably isn't going to happen with this platform. Would require lots of work and extra hardware.
we had hopes for it


Time is the best teacher

Too bad it kills all its pupils ....
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Default 04-12-2011, 01:18 PM

You manual guys can always put a block of wood under the gas pedal. Each 1/4" of wood = 500 RPMs.


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Default 04-12-2011, 01:26 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by OldBooster
You manual guys can always put a block of wood under the gas pedal. Each 1/4" of wood = 500 RPMs.
Tie a rope to it and yank the wood out from under the pedal after you launch.
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Default 04-12-2011, 03:26 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by OldBooster
I have found the sure fire way to get the best launches with my AT is to wait until the second yello light coming down before you brake hard and time the WOT just right. It is a transition thing ... takes practice ... but I cut better times this way. When brake boosting to 2400 too soon, I'd spin at the starting line, or push myself forward or even push through the lights.

Don't forget the value of the roll out: stage WAY back in the gate, then jump out with WOT on the last yellow light. My best result: 1.50 60' with drag radials at 15 lbs. psi.
OB, any worries about the halfshafts in our AT's?

also, doesnt 15psi affect your mph?

im actually gonna try and run this sucker this summer and want to learn from my elders
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