[Deen@StreetKingImports]

Originally Posted by Six Pot

Ill need to take a pic, WG clocking + Front Screamer clocking just doesn't clear the manifold.

Feel free to pm me all pics and information, maybe I can try to help out

[codesx]

If/when either of you have before and after dyno numbers, put 'em up!
The pictures are nice, but we all want the delta!

[bigdaddyaaron]

Originally Posted by Six Pot

When it was overclocked we had a straight down 10AN to 10AN to the block utilizing a Vader-like block converter. Post reclock @ 12 we no longer can route against the block so we literally have to go down then curve threw the manifold to get to the drain which now creates the issue at hand. So the only option we can think of is a metal line to mitigate it.

Just use DEI(or equivalent) firesleeve. I've had silicon drain line touching(forcefully lol) my bare manifold for just over 2 years and no drama. skip the gold tape bull**** and use something with actual insulation.

[Six Pot]

Originally Posted by bigdaddyaaron

Just use DEI(or equivalent) firesleeve. I've had silicon drain line touching(forcefully lol) my bare manifold for just over 2 years and no drama. skip the gold tape bull**** and use something with actual insulation.

Tried Firesleeve , already melted a line and the manifold is cermanic coated. We now have Hi temp blue line + a dei wrap + firesleeve, it still don’t trust it for longevity.

[bigdaddyaaron]

Originally Posted by Six Pot

Tried Firesleeve , already melted a line and the manifold is cermanic coated. We now have Hi temp blue line + a dei wrap + firesleeve, it still don’t trust it for longevity.

Wow that's strange. I have hi-temp blue + firesleeve as well. The addition of that wrap should make the line damn near cold lol.

Also, if you have tape on the underside of your hood that could be contributing as well. That radiant heat needs to escape somewhere so that youre not cooking the ambient air on that side of the bay. You already have a bunch of tape reflecting radient heat right back towards the turbo/manifold.

Also, I noticed that exhaust scavenge you have setup: have you done any testing on that? The bung is angled directly in the path of the exhaust flow- especially being at the high pressure/low speed bend like that. Could be fine, but just wondering

[Six Pot]

Originally Posted by bigdaddyaaron

Wow that's strange. I have hi-temp blue + firesleeve as well. The addition of that wrap should make the line damn near cold lol.

Also, if you have tape on the underside of your hood that could be contributing as well. That radiant heat needs to escape somewhere so that youre not cooking the ambient air on that side of the bay. You already have a bunch of tape reflecting radient heat right back towards the turbo/manifold.

Also, I noticed that exhaust scavenge you have setup: have you done any testing on that? The bung is angled directly in the path of the exhaust flow- especially being at the high pressure/low speed bend like that. Could be fine, but just wondering

The hood is CF with M3 vents , no shielding so heat extraction should be just fine.

In regards to the scavenger it hasent been on the road enough yet to tell but the configuration is accurate in order to create pressure needed. The only other method would be to VTA or do a custom air filter but both have their own drawbacks

[SlimE92]

Updates?

[suspenceful]

Originally Posted by SlimE92

Updates?

What kind of updates are you looking for? Car has been hibernating in the garage all winter.

[SlimE92]

Originally Posted by suspenceful

What kind of updates are you looking for? Car has been hibernating in the garage all winter.

Dyno updates. But that’s right I did read before where you said you’ll bring it back out during spring my bad.