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Engmoreau 08-21-2020 05:03 AM


Originally Posted by Terry @ BMS (Post )
Don't know on that, has to be intake related I'd think since it's an intake temp sensor fault. Photo of the manifold added?

Sorry I meant to say the Intercooler pipe from mishimoto:

Jeep Wrangler JL 2.0L Performance Intercooler Pipe, 2018+

Everything else is stock.

You donít think is anything with the JB4?

jw1971 09-07-2020 04:56 PM


Originally Posted by Engmoreau (Post )
Sorry I meant to say the Intercooler pipe from mishimoto:

Jeep Wrangler JL 2.0L Performance Intercooler Pipe, 2018+

Everything else is stock.

You donít think is anything with the JB4?

That temp sensor you move from the stock IC pipe to the Mishi one is quite fragile. If when removing it and installing it in the new pipe you put too much pressure on the thermistor you will damage it and the fault you are seeing would be the result.

I suspect the sensor was damaged in moving it over and caused the problem. Replace sensor and see how it goes - it's a $25 part.

Engmoreau 09-08-2020 05:08 AM


Originally Posted by jw1971 (Post )
That temp sensor you move from the stock IC pipe to the Mishi one is quite fragile. If when removing it and installing it in the new pipe you put too much pressure on the thermistor you will damage it and the fault you are seeing would be the result.

I suspect the sensor was damaged in moving it over and caused the problem. Replace sensor and see how it goes - it's a $25 part.

You are right, I broke it and install a new one. I took the wrangler to the dealership, the CAI temp sensor was changed. It worked for a few hours and error came back up. Is intermittent now.
I have another appointment this month.

Wade.JL 11-09-2020 11:02 AM

Im new to this forum but have floated around reading as a guest for a while on N54 Tech. I just purchased a 2020 Wrangler Sport 2 door and have a JB4 with data cable on the way. I read through this entire thread and was wondering if there has been any progress on this "hiccup" that is showing itself on map 2 with these jeeps? I come from the VW side of the fence having previously owned a MK7 1.8T with an IS20 swap, FBO and JB4 only, running on unleaded race gas. I'm comfortable enough saying that I have enough experience with JB4's and making custom maps through map 6 that I can pretty much do anything a professional tuner can do, ie: I know what to look for when tuning regarding ignition advance, AFR, fuel trims, etc. My questions (maybe more directed to someone at BMS; and im basing my knowledge off of tuning on VW's) are
1. Are features like FOL adjustment available yet to raise fuel pressure to bring fuel trims down?
2. Boost by gear for the first 3 gears?
3. Setting 1500rpm boost target cell to over 10psi to make the rest of the cells switch to absolute instead of additive?
4. And I'm assuming that all of the logging parameters are available now like IGN advance, AFR, target and actual boost, fuel trims, throttle and rpm?

Wade.JL 11-09-2020 11:04 AM

i also forgot to mention that I am a technician for Chrysler and have access to more information than thr average person would have access to; just so i can lend a hand and help make some progress with making the firmware the best it can be.

Terry @ BMS 11-09-2020 09:13 PM

The Jeep JB4 options are more limited currently than other models. Boost by gear is actually boost by speed and active, as are the basic logging parameters, but some of the more advanced parameters are not supported yet. There is no absolute mapping, no FOL adjustment yet.

Wade.JL 11-10-2020 05:09 AM

Ok I see. Going to be awesome when everything is up and running. As soon as my JB4 arrives I'm gunna try and do some diagnosing and see what this hiccup might be that some people are experiencing on map 2. Some other members were saying that the hiccup happened although much less aggressively with traction control off which makes me wonder if it can be confirmed that it would go away completely with the ABS fuse pulled as traction control by the button on the dash doesn't fully disable traction control and actually leaves ESC on which may explain the "lesser" hiccup with TCS off. As soon as I get my JB4 hooked up and see what I find I'll make a post.

Terry @ BMS 11-10-2020 01:47 PM

Sounds like a plan!

Wade.JL 11-26-2020 05:53 AM

So the JB4 arrived. I've always ran 91 octane in it since new and I got everything hooked up. Map 1 works awesome. I loaded map 2 and still no problems and I'm still running 91 octane with it as well; no hiccups, no engine light, no hesitation, no nothing. I'm not sure what to say to the other members having issues on Map 2. Since I can't re create the problem on my own Jeep, it may seem that their problem is traction control related because my Map 2 even on 91 feels very strong through all gears. When I think back to when I had my JB4 for my MK7 Golf, out of the box it had a problem with cutting in and out and it turned out that one of the female side pins in the connector that connects the OBD2 to the JB4 unit was mildly damaged. I got my terminal repair kit out, fixed the pin and no more problems after that. So to all of the other members maybe double check all male and female pins on every connector for any damage or excessive spread that would cause a loose connection. Other than that the Jeep feels VERY fast; mind you I'm in a 2 door base model with LSD sitting on the stock 17" wheels. Haven't logged yet but when I have the chance I'm going to pour some 94 octane in and create a Map 6. I'll post some graphs of my runs as soon as I can. This is my second JB4 and once again I'm not disappointed one bit. Fantastic product. This Jeep is really going to get me in trouble if I'm not careful ;)

Terry @ BMS 11-27-2020 03:27 PM

Glad to hear! If you ever need any tuning advice feel free to post up a log or two.

Wade.JL 11-27-2020 05:20 PM

So I had no problems with Map 1 and Map 2, I then put in some 94 octane, loaded Map 3 and I finally got that bucking issue people were talking about. From a dead stop, not brake torquing it, 100% throttle it only seems to happen when the transmission comes out of 2nd gear and shifts into 3rd and a little bit close to the top of 3rd gear as well. Judging from the logs when it happens there is a massive boost dive for a split second and then picks back up again. What's even more weird is that I switched it back to map 2 still running 94 octane and it now bucks too at the same spot (3rd gear) although not as bad. I then proceeded to log Map 1, Map 2 and even Map 4 and, I don't know if I was just seeing things but actual boost numbers looked the same in Map 1, Map 2 and even Map 4. I was wondering how I was hitting 26psi in Map 4 when Map 4 is not even available. It seems that Map 1 and Map 2 worked as advertised up until I tried Map 3 and then it went bonkers. I've been at it for a few hours now messing around and even going into Map 6 and it seems that what you set targets at, it doesn't seem to fully reach them. I'm going to try and let the BUS go to sleep between runs to see if that makes any difference. Let me know your thoughts. Thanks a bunch.

Wade.JL 11-27-2020 05:53 PM

3 Attachment(s)
I've attached 3 pictures of graphs for each run from a dead stop. 1st one is stock, 2nd one is map 1 (which still seems to be fine; no bucking) and the 3rd one is map 2. All made on 94 octane. You can see on map 2 that when it happens just after it shifts into 3rd gear there is a small dip in boost (not as big as I've seen on other logs) as well as a quick lean spike under WOT hopping up to 13.5:1 at the same time. If I do a roll at low RPM in 4th gear and stomp on it all the way to redline the log looks perfect even in map 3. AFR is perfect (11.7:1 ish), timing looks good too; although quite low rising to only 1 or 2 degrees by redline, even in stock form, but that might just be how this engine is, trims I'm not sure what the safe limit is for the Jeeps, I remember my Golf being 45 or under, but trims are 22ish stock and low 30's in map 1 and 2 which is expected. To me this seems almost like a transmission issue. Not that the transmission has an issue but that when pushing more boost it accelerates too fast for the transmission to keep up on the 1,2,3 shift because if you keep your foot in it after the hiccup, 3rd gear to 4th gear is flawless and 4th to 5th is also good. Any feedback is awesome. Thanks for your help and time.

Wade.JL 11-27-2020 06:10 PM

Sorry, I'm not putting everything in 1 post, I just keep thinking of things to ask you. You said boost by speed was available? Do you just input the speed (in mph) in the 1st cell (max boost 1st gear) and then set a boost value (additive)?

drburns 11-29-2020 12:30 PM

I’ve been running map 1 without issues all summer and now that fall has arrived, I actually had that bucking today starting from a stop between the 1-2 and 2-3 shift. The cold air definitely makes a huge difference in the Jeep iat, so it’s making more power. It feels like the truck is purposely cutting power like it’s hitting a torque limiter or something during the top of the rpm range before the shift.

Wade.JL 11-30-2020 05:15 AM

That's very similar to what's happening to me. Although I found something else that I think might be the more likely problem, at least for what I'm seeing on my own Jeep. I spent about 4 hrs playing around with the JB4 trying to get it to do different things to see what I could come up with and it had gotten dark by this point, I noticed that Map 2 on 94 octane was bucking on the 2-3 shift and at that point thought I'd give the Jeep a bit of break. Well I go to park it and leave it idle, get out, pop the hood to let some heat out of the engine bay and notice right away that the hot side of the turbo and a section of the *** is GLOWING red. Right then and there I pretty much figured this was the problem. I let it idle with the hood open for a good 20 min, turbo isn't glowing anymore and with no changes made to the JB4, still in map 2 and 94 octane, I do a pull from a dead stop and it's perfect again. No bucking at all, and it pulled nice a strong through all gears smoothly. At this point I'm 95% sure it's a heat related issue causing it to pull timing abruptly. The *** converter on the ******** is huge and I think at anything more than a few lbs of boost over stock is just causing a blockage basically and causing the turbo to retain way too much heat. The solution would be a ******* ******** which I know AFE makes a 3" stainless one. Even after driving it the next few days it is still perfect. I find as long as I don't do any multiple hour long tuning sessions it's fine.

freshjl 11-30-2020 10:17 AM

I have had the bucking/throttle cutting issue on all maps sense I purchased mine about a year ago. I finally had to unplug it a few weeks ago because my jeep was undrivable anything over half throttle. Sense unplugging the module the jeep drives perfect. I really hope a patch comes out soon so I can enjoy the extra HP.

Terry @ BMS 11-30-2020 10:49 AM


Originally Posted by Wade.JL (Post )
So I had no problems with Map 1 and Map 2, I then put in some 94 octane, loaded Map 3 and I finally got that bucking issue people were talking about.

You posted photos. Attach the CSV log for tuning advice.

But based on the photo you rolled in to the 1st gear rev limiter. Only solution for that current is to manually shift sooner or use boost by gear to lower boost in 1st.

Wade.JL 12-01-2020 02:44 PM

Whoops, that's my bad. I'll do more runs and get more logs and post actual CSV files this time. I've noticed during runs the transmission seems to hang on to gears before up shifting sometimes. It's hit or miss but I'm trying to figure out how that might cause a hiccup at the beginning of 3rd gear. Perhaps the trans hanging on to 1st gear messes up the timing for the rest of the upshifts? Not to sure but all I know is that when I pound on it hard for a while playing with the JB4 it will start to buck/hiccup even in map 2, but if I let it idle with the hood open or just cruise for 5 or 10 min on the highway normally and then get into it again the bucking and hiccuping will stop. I'm still leaning towards this being a c.a.t. c.o.n.v.e.r.t.e.r. "blockage" at higher boost levels holding in too much heat and not letting the turbo breath properly. I remember on my Golf that the stock ******** was a big restriction when you got into tuning it and when you tried to push it harder on anything more than map 1 or even a mild map 6 the car would not be happy. As soon as I put the c.a.t.l.e.s.s. d.o.w.n.p.i.p.e. on the Golf it made a world of a difference. I'll post back as soon as I can with more info and logs.

Wade.JL 12-01-2020 04:04 PM

I forgot to ask, how do you setup the boost by speed feature. The boost by gear doesn't seem to work. I can put 20psi in the first cell block for 1st gear and it'll only hit 15psi through all gears.

Terry @ BMS 12-01-2020 04:54 PM

It's a boost reduction. Enter 3psi in 1st gear and log that, and attach the CSV so we can check it out.

Wade.JL 12-02-2020 02:03 PM

1 Attachment(s)
So I got a chance to do a log. This is Map 2 with a 3psi reduction in 1st gear.
Map 2 even without the reduction, for me, has no problems. I noticed that if I logged Map 2 and re created Map 2 target boost levels across the rpm range and input it into Map 6 identically, it would buck going into 3rd gear.

Terry @ BMS 12-02-2020 02:25 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Do a map2 run with 1st gear at 5psi for comparison here.

Wade.JL 12-04-2020 05:14 PM

3 Attachment(s)
Sorry for the delay, was busy with a lot of work the past couple of days.
Here is a run of map 2 with 5 psi reduction in 1st gear as well as a map 6 that I was able to catch a big hiccup in 3rd gear. Also let me know if you need me to do anything else to work any kinks out. I don't mind being the guinea pig.

Wade.JL 12-12-2020 08:29 AM

I have another question for you Terry. Would you advise against using a Superchips flashpaq tune and then stacking the JB4 on top? Given if this issue is a "PCM torque limiter" that's causing the bucking to occur, an unlocked PCM with an actual flash SHOULD get rid of the issue but I'm hesitant to try it in case the issue isn't with some type of pcm torque limiter and then I just threw another $500 down the drain. As well I don't like the "set it and forget it" type of tunes, I like to adjust and re tune my self as I add more bolt on parts to my vehicles and the flashpaq just doesn't suit my needs in that regard; not to mention I don't know what their timing or AFR adjustments are so stacking the JB4 on top might not be a good idea yet. I feel as though as the vehicle is warmed up but hasn't heat soaked yet I can get a few runs in even on Map 3 and it pulls hard as hell with no bucking. As I do more and more full throttle runs the bucking gets worse and worse, I then bring it down to Map 2 and the bucking will stop, but if I keep doing more back to back WOT runs it will even start to buck in Map 2. Map 1 seems to be the safe zone where no matter how many runs I do it won't buck at all and seems to be consistent which makes me think that this is more of a d.o.w.n.p.i.p.e. issue as my VW Golf would show similar behavior if I tried to push it too hard and the problem went away completely when I installed the c.a.t.l.e.s.s. d.o.w.n.p.i.p.e. I can run a map 6 up to a certain amount of boost and it seems to be fine and then I'll add half a lb in across the board and it will start to buck mildly. I'd then take that half a lb back out and it's fine again. I want to try to do something to figure this out but not sure where my money would be better spent trying to experiment. Either a flash tune and stack or maybe try an exhaust first.

Terry @ BMS 12-12-2020 11:22 AM

If you don't care about warranty no issues flashing car. Once flashed record a JB4 log on map0 so we can see what they've changed and come up with next steps on the JB4 end.

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