[kentgbr]

This is my first post so hopefully I can contribute something useful.
Here are instructions for altering the steptronic paddle shifter operation. Specifically this covers converting the left shifter to downshift only and the right to upshift only. It's also easy to reverse or disable the squeeze/push functionality of each shifter. Each paddle has a 3 wire connector that plugs into the back of its respective left and right radio/phone control switch. Removing, reversing, or combining two of these wires changes the shifter functions. The first step is a battery disconnect and airbag module removal. The airbag's electrical connectors can stay in place. Please look up how to do this as it's widely available information.

1) Release the airbag module and rest it on top of the wheel between the column and rim - TAKE REQUIRED PRECAUTIONS
2) Remove the wheel trim piece held on by 3 Torx T20 screws.
3) Remove the paddle shifter connectors from the radio/phone button modules by pulling firmly on the connector body with pliers.
4) Remove the shifters held on by 1 Torx T20 bolt each.

Diagrams of paddle connector wire functions:

Left Paddle Connector
______
3-------|<--downshift (press)
2-------|<--ground
1-------|<--upshift (squeeze)
==<-tab

Right Paddle Connector

==<-tab
1-------|<--downshift (press)
2-------|<--ground
3-------|<--upshift (squeeze)
_____|

The left and right connector pin numbers have different functions because the connectors are flipped from left to right. The numbers are small but visible, pin 1 is always next to the tab as shown.

5) Remove the pin 1 wire and pin from each connector by unclamping the small connector hinged piece and pressing the exposed pin release tab. Do not remove the pin 2 and pin 3 wires.

6) Connect the pin 1 wire to the pin 3 wire on each paddle. This gives left downshift only and right upshift only on both movements of the shifters. I cut off the pin and spliced the wires using solder with heat shrink tubing for insulation. Other connection schemes may be devised, don't forget to insulate well.

7) Reconnect and reassemble everything, then try it out.

The pics below show the installed left and right connectors after modification. Note the missing pin 1 wire.

[Terry @ BMS]

wow, very cool!! Great DIY.

[Trill335]

Awesome. I've wanted to do this for a while. I wasn't brave enough to attempt this. Thanks very much!

[Valley_Boy]

wow
i want to do this

[e92er]

Great write-up! I wanna do this also but I've gotten used to the way it is.....Guess I'll just have to "Unlearn, what I have learned..."

[Rugs]

Great info...Welcome to N54Tech Kent!
Wish this had been posted up last week when I did my "M" wheel paddle mod. http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showth...0698#post10698 oh well.

[cq roman]

great write-up

[Amir87]

Anyone done this mod yet?

What the hardest part?,

[kentgbr]

Anyone done this mod yet?

I did it last week and really like it. The left downshift, right upshift action just feels right and it's nice to take your pick of push/pull for either function.

What the hardest part?

For me it was getting up the nerve to cut and splice the wires on my brand new car. However, it's only the short sections from the paddle shifter switches - not like cutting into a main harness or anything. Once the airbag module is off and out of the way things go pretty smoothly. The paddle shifter 3-pin connectors are pretty tight, use pliers and avoid tugging the wires to yank them out. You also want to splice the wires a few inches away from the connector because they take a pretty tight turn near the plug-in point (see earlier pics). Good luck if you decide to do it.

[TexRob]

What is the possibility of shorting a wire to the airbag wires and blowing it up in your face? heh

Awesome first post Kent, this is something I have whined about for a long time. I really don't like the way the E9x is set up, wish it was like the SMG. Too bad mine is a lease though, otherwise I'd be all over this. Forgive me for not researching it myself, but is there a chance that where the wires end up, they could be swapped without cutting? That make sense? Might be harder, but a less intrusive way of doing it.

[kentgbr]

What is the possibility of shorting a wire to the airbag wires and blowing it up in your face? heh

A battery disconnect is definitely advisable.

Forgive me for not researching it myself, but is there a chance that where the wires end up, they could be swapped without cutting? That make sense? Might be harder, but a less intrusive way of doing it.

I cut and spliced the wires to get a guaranteed good connection and to complete the project in one shot. It's still reversible if need be, with some labor. You have to connect the wires, not swap them, to get the same press/pull function on each side. However, anything that connects the wires will work. A better idea might be to use a simple quick splice connector that would cut through the insulation but not the wire itself. Just be sure to splice in a good location and insulate the exposed pin. These are reversible and at most would only require a bit of tape after removal where the insulation was cut.

As an alternative to splicing the pin 1 wire to pin 3 on the same connector, you could cross-connect the pin 1 wires from the left and right connectors (see original post diagram). This would also connect the left paddle pull function to a downshift terminal and the right paddle push function to an upshift terminal. The wires are too short for this so you'd need to rig up a harness with connectors and pins compatible with the existing setup. There is room next to the existing harness to run this across.

[phattbam]

kentgbr, where in the bay area are you located? I'd like to check out your set up and see how it works...

[kentgbr]

Originally Posted by phattbam

kentgbr, where in the bay area are you located? I'd like to check out your set up and see how it works...

You're not my BMW service advisor are you?
Kidding aside, I live in the east bay and work in the south bay but there really isn't any setup to see. The left paddles only downshift and the right only upshift, everything functions properly and looks original.

[phattbam]

sickness.. no, I'm from the East Bay as well. but I would like to see the shifting in action if possible. I sent you a PM..

[musc]

This is great! Coming from an SMG, I really thought it was stupid to change the paddle configuration. I demoed a 135i yesterday and countless times I found myself in M6 because I was squeezing the left paddle expecting downshifts. Old habits die hard.

Originally Posted by TexRob

Forgive me for not researching it myself, but is there a chance that where the wires end up, they could be swapped without cutting? That make sense? Might be harder, but a less intrusive way of doing it.

It seems like you could do this by taking the Left connector and just plugging wire 1 (upshift/squeeze) into #3 pin slot. Then you could either leave the 3 wire off and covered, or just plug it into the 1 slot. If you just leave it loose, your left paddle would squeeze for downshift and nothing when you pressed (of course if you plugged the 3 wire into the 1 slot, your Left press would upshift which could get confusing). Your right paddle would still function the same.

Personally, I would just want the squeezing motion to be correct. I like the OPs idea of making both L. paddle functions downshift and both R. paddle functions upshift.

[phattbam]

Originally Posted by musc

Personally, I would just want the squeezing motion to be correct. I like the OPs idea of making both L. paddle functions downshift and both R. paddle functions upshift.

yeah me too. Been trying to contact them to see it in action. no luck

[musc]

Originally Posted by phattbam

yeah me too. Been trying to contact them to see it in action. no luck

Just give it a shot. Popping the airbag out isn't too hard. From there, the rest looks pretty easy following his directions. Just try swapping the wires around on the left side. You could even disconnect the one wire on the right side...disabling the 'push' function on both sides leaving you with the typical Left squeeze=downshift right squeeze=upshift. Just cover the detached wire end with electrical tape. No splicing required and easily reversible if you get rid of the car. Personally this is the route I will probably go. I don't see myself getting used to the thumb push action.

[kentgbr]

Originally Posted by musc

Just give it a shot. Popping the airbag out isn't too hard. From there, the rest looks pretty easy following his directions. Just try swapping the wires around on the left side. You could even disconnect the one wire on the right side...disabling the 'push' function on both sides leaving you with the typical Left squeeze=downshift right squeeze=upshift. Just cover the detached wire end with electrical tape. No splicing required and easily reversible if you get rid of the car. Personally this is the route I will probably go. I don't see myself getting used to the thumb push action.

Here are the specifics for the functions described above:

Left Connector
1) Remove the wire and pin that go to pin 3 and tape off the exposed pin (disables push function)
2) Remove the wire and pin that go to pin 1 and install it in the pin 3 location (converts pull function to downshift)

Right Connector
1) Remove the wire and pin that goes to pin 1 and tape off the exposed pin (disables push function)

[musc]

Originally Posted by kentgbr

Here are the specifics for the functions described above:

Left Connector
1) Remove the wire and pin that go to pin 3 and tape off the exposed pin (disables push function)
2) Remove the wire and pin that go to pin 1 and install it in the pin 3 location (converts pull function to downshift)

Right Connector
1) Remove the wire and pin that goes to pin 1 and tape off the exposed pin (disables push function)

Perfect. Would be a great mod for someone not looking to cut or splice wires. Too bad the paddles from the SMG aren't compatible with the steering wheel. I was looking at the paddles and it would be nice if someone came out with a + and - sign on the thumb section. Maybe etched into it with some paint fill.
Kind of like this



I am sure someone will come up with an aftermarket paddle sooner or later.

[phattbam]

I was considering using some tranparent label makers to print out the "-" and "+" signs.

just until the DCT ones come out of course or an alternative mod

[musc]

Originally Posted by phattbam

I was considering using some tranparent label makers to print out the "-" and "+" signs.

just until the DCT ones come out of course or an alternative mod

Good idea with the transparent markers. Probably a lot cheaper than having it etched in. I am sure replacement paddles aren't cheap. The SMG paddles were about ~$100 each for stock replacement. I am sure these ones are a lot more than that.

Not sure if the DCT paddles will be compatible. Would be cool if they are.

[phattbam]

the sport paddles are $100+ each side as well. I'm hoping the connectors in the back for the sport paddles and the DCT paddles would be the same if not removable to be used with the sport paddle connections

[asdflkijd]

wow, this means that we can just get the M3 wheel w/ paddles and do the retrofit for the paddle function. cool

[Jason @ BMS]

Where can you get the paddles for $100.00 bucks each? That sounds like a great deal.

[phattbam]

Originally Posted by Jason @ BMS

Where can you get the paddles for $100.00 bucks each? That sounds like a great deal.

OEM sport paddles.