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Default JB3 hardware versions and how to update - 08-20-2009, 11:41 AM

Hey guys,

Had a few questions on the various JB3 configurations and figured it was worth a thread. I'll update it as needed!

There are three production versions, and two beta versions. Pictured below are the three production versions. The beta versions were brown in color and I believe we've exchanged all of them for production boards long ago.

The generation 1 board was sold as shown up until around March, 2009.

Around when we were finalizing 1.3 we added an additional component to the board, the blue 10uf capacitor shown. We found around 5% of cars out there needed this capacitor to run the stronger 1.3 lagfix maps. The G1 board with the extra capacitor is the G2 board.

Around July, 2009 we switched over to the G3 board, which features a DB9 connector on the end for gauge/PC communications and some other changes to facilitate methanol integration. In addition we found some of the G1/G2 cases could melt or deform with the new stronger lagfix maps (which produce more heat) so that was revised on the G3 board as well.

So what does this mean for you? Probably nothing. Unless you have an older G1 board and are having problems with the latest lagfix maps. Problems such as random 2ABC SES codes, or random stumbles only with the lagfix maps under light throttle. The 1.4 lagfix maps are even stronger than the 1.3 maps, and future maps will be stronger, so this may become more of an issue for you. Please note the above symptoms are the only symptoms related to the G1 vs. G2 board and any other problem you may have is most likely not at all related to this.

So if you have a G1 board and find yourself not able to run the latest lagfix maps, here are your options:

1) Send it back to us and we'll update it to G2 for free, update the software while its here, and ship it back to you. Even if you didn't buy it from us. Our shipping address is on our website at www.burgertuning.com and put a note in there with your return address.

2) If you can manage sticking two leads in a hole and soldering them, you can source and solder your own 10uf capacitor to the board. This is the one you need.

3) Upgrade to the G3 board with the latest firmware loaded for $65 here: http://www.burgertuning.com/JB3_upgrades.html

The second hardware item out there to discuss is the JB3 hardware safety. The JB3 has two load resistors designed to limit the amount of wastegate duty cycle the system can pull. This is to protect against a software or tuning problem causing uncontrolled boost levels, and is an important part of the two layer hardware based and software based boost safety system. Especially when users are playing with the tuning using our laptop interface.

The drawback to this system is it limits top end boost at a hardware level to around 16psi peak and 12-13psi at redline. And some of you who use heavy amounts of race gas and modifications want to run more boost than the 24ohm resistors will allow. If you're getting 30FF codes on higher maps and have verified you don't have a boost leak and that your PWM is at 100% when the 30FF comes up, refer to the DIY thread for further details and directions:

http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5899
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Default 08-20-2009, 11:54 AM

Terry, does it matter which direction the capacitor is soldered on?


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Default 08-20-2009, 11:55 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by i2istudios
Terry, does it matter which direction the capacitor is soldered on?
No, its not directional.



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Default 08-20-2009, 11:58 AM

Nice info T. So the 3rd. gen came only with gauge connector correct. It's says on the board something like Burger Tuning rev 2.2?


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Default 08-20-2009, 12:00 PM

Right, if it has the DB9 its the G3. Technically there was also a beta G3 but its effectively the same as the production G3.



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Default 08-20-2009, 12:09 PM

Good info! I saw a Gen2 board the other day when I was switching out a member's chip and was wondering when the db9 was added.


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Default 08-20-2009, 12:15 PM

I wonder which one do I have, time to go open it up.


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Default 08-20-2009, 12:19 PM

Great info!! Last couple JB3's are of the Gen3 with db9 connector.
And awesome, AWESOMEEEE customer service!!!

Other tuners make you have to throw away your old hardware and buy hardware for 1,000 dollars, as you are letting us upgrade for FREE!!!! WOW!



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Default 08-20-2009, 12:26 PM

Even if you bought it from someone else... crazy support.


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Default 08-20-2009, 12:29 PM

Here is a better view of the Gen 1 JB3 with only 1 BLUE capacitor, you can see where there is a open slot for the EXTRA capacitor as per the GEN 2.




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Last edited by 5soko; 08-20-2009 at 02:09 PM..
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Default 08-20-2009, 01:38 PM

You mean capacitor.


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Default 08-20-2009, 01:38 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by 5soko
Here is a better view of the Gen 1 JB3 with only 1 BLUE resistor, you can see where there is a open slot for the EXTRA resistor as per the GEN 2.
I think you meant capacitor... regardless, thanks for the close up.

I'm sure I have Gen 1 in this case. I love soldering, maybe I'll do this mod and it could improve the lagfix maps!
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Default 08-20-2009, 02:08 PM

Yup i did..fixed.. . NP.



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Default 08-20-2009, 09:21 PM

terry, would a cap fix a gen 1 board that has a stutter at 3000 rpm only on the 1.4 lagfix maps?

i'm not throwing any codes, and the hpfp was replaced about a month ago.

also, do you have any extra caps? the shipping fee is 10X more than the cost of a single cap from mouser. i'm guessing a postage stamp would be enough to handle the shipping
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Default 08-20-2009, 09:39 PM

Only lagfix maps and only at light throttle? It might. Drop me an email with your addr and I can send a cap out.



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Default 08-22-2009, 08:47 PM

Thanks alot Terry for the fast shipping! Really appreciate it! Great customer service as always!
Here are some pics from my cell




And while i had my cousin car there, JB3 for E55 AMG?



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Default 08-22-2009, 09:32 PM

It's time for that BMS gauge to fill that other side of JB3!


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Default 09-01-2009, 11:58 AM

Just order the cap and solder it in, or we can send you one to solder in.



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Default 09-01-2009, 12:46 PM

Email me address and we'll mail you a cap to add. It's easy to do.



Burger Motorsports
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Default 09-01-2009, 12:53 PM

can someone post a pic on how to solder the cap to the board.
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Default 09-01-2009, 12:53 PM

It's in the first post.



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Default 09-02-2009, 06:28 PM

Hey Terry,

I just found out that I have a G1 board. That may explain why my car stuttered 3 separate times during high load light throttle situations. I was running rev 6 map 7. The last couple of days I have been running map 8, car is smooth with no issues. Any chance you can mail a capacitor to me?

Thanks,
AW135i
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Default 09-02-2009, 06:29 PM

Sure, just email me the address.



Burger Motorsports
Home of the Worlds fastest N54s and N55s!


N54 Overall Traps World Record (11.33@132.78)__N54 Stock Turbos WR (11.25@122.86)__N54 AT Stock Turbos Traps WR (11.38@125.24)__N54 Twin Turbos WR (11.01@129.30)__N54 Stock Turbos 60-130 WR (8.39)__N54 Stock Turbos WHP WR (456whp)__N54 Stock Turbos+n2o WHP WR (542whp)__N54 Stock Turbos+n2o 60-130 WR (6.95)__N54 Stock Turbos+n2o WR (11.11@129.47)__N55 WR (11.91@117.81)__N55 WHP WR (399whp)__F30 WR(11.99@114.35)
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Default 09-02-2009, 06:50 PM

Terry, could this explain light throttle CELs on Map 5? Since I've switched to 1.3 and now 1.4 I've gotten a few CEL's at light throttle on Map 5 and I've also been having some stuttering of my idle at startup. Sometimes when I start up rather than jumping to 1500rpm and then settling back down to 500-600rpm like normal it starts and barely gets to 500 and then gradually increases. It sounds like it's struggling to do so. Didn't know if it was a JB3 thing or a car thing. It also seems like I have LESS power since going to 1.3 and 1.4 than I had on 1.22. Would this be a result of the old board (I was a beta tester).

I'm also getting wastegate rattle (I think) but I get that on passthrough (map 0, just tested today) and and map 5 so that must be my car. Is wastegate rattle when you rev and then let off the gas and you get a clicking/rattling noise as the revs drop back down?

One last stupid question. When switching maps, say at a light, do I need the ignition to be on (gauges on) or just the single button press state? Also, when does the map "take effect"? Is it when you turn on the car? If I change the map when getting somewhere I always turn the car back on just to make sure it takes effect before turning the car right back off again. I'd like to know exactly what state the car needs to be in to change the map and to finalize the change.

Sorry for all the questions!
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Default 09-02-2009, 10:02 PM

You can read the code, and if it is 2ABC, then this will fix it. But it is normally a SES light so I doubt this is your problem. If you get a lot of rattle you may have a wastegate leak or some other problem, so email us and we'll try to help.



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N54 Overall Traps World Record (11.33@132.78)__N54 Stock Turbos WR (11.25@122.86)__N54 AT Stock Turbos Traps WR (11.38@125.24)__N54 Twin Turbos WR (11.01@129.30)__N54 Stock Turbos 60-130 WR (8.39)__N54 Stock Turbos WHP WR (456whp)__N54 Stock Turbos+n2o WHP WR (542whp)__N54 Stock Turbos+n2o 60-130 WR (6.95)__N54 Stock Turbos+n2o WR (11.11@129.47)__N55 WR (11.91@117.81)__N55 WHP WR (399whp)__F30 WR(11.99@114.35)
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