[robc1976]

Note: Not responsible for any damage to you or your car, this worked on my car so will work on yours.

***This tutorial assumes you know how to get your car secured on jack stands, if in doubt do NOT attempt this DIY!

Tools Need not in pic (4 jacks stands & 2 jacks (1) for a safety catch in case jack stand fail (I saw this happen and will NEVER forget it)....safety 1st).


Torque specs:

Subframe bolts (65 Ft lbs)
Strut bolts (25 ft lbs)

Suggestions:

I highly suggest a impact wrench.
I used a 14MM 12Pt socket instead of a E18 on subframe bolts.
If you can source a 3/34" inside diameter pipe you can skip a few spteps...I got tired of looking for one...I got each bushing out in less than 15 mins.

Note: I was in the middle of a wavetrac install so my exhaust and differential where not in place, You may have to unbolt half shafts...I will update thread in a day or so.

Rear bushings:


























Front bushings:

Click this link before beggining for correct orientation (thanks to "SteveAZ" for bring this to my attention)

http://www.powerflex.co.uk/i/product_images/5-420fi.pdf
































Reference pic of diameter of rear subframe bushing"

[Eleventeen]

Nice writeup. I felt a big difference with the Powerflex subframe bushings.

[robc1976]

Originally Posted by Eleventeen

Nice writeup. I felt a big difference with the Powerflex subframe bushings.

hope I do to!

[tofu]

Originally Posted by robc1976

hope I do to!

oh you will. powerflex subframe bushings alone made a big difference even just street driving.

[robc1976]

Originally Posted by tofu

oh you will. powerflex subframe bushings alone made a big difference even just street driving.

I also installed rogue engineering transmission mounts, Wavetrac and lockdown differential.

[SteveAZ]

Hot damn...glad you're one step (actually a few...lol) ahead of me. I was just debating today if I wanted to go with the M3 bushings or the Powerflex bushings. I'm thinking the Powerflex are firmer? and also easier to install (2 piece?).

Nice write up, that's gonna help a lot! After all the trouble I've had with the minimal amount of work I've let people do on this car...no way am I handing it over to a shop for this!

Do we need to do an alignment after this?

Where'd you get your RSF bushings? $300?

[robc1976]

Originally Posted by SteveAZ

Hot damn...glad you're one step (actually a few...lol) ahead of me. I was just debating today if I wanted to go with the M3 bushings or the Powerflex bushings. I'm thinking the Powerflex are firmer? and also easier to install (2 piece?).

Nice write up, that's gonna help a lot! After all the trouble I've had with the minimal amount of work I've let people do on this car...no way am I handing it over to a shop for this!

Do we need to do an alignment after this?

Where'd you get your RSF bushings? $300?

no alignment need, only thing you have to take loose is the bottom shock nut. The 2 piece in the front pop right in but be sure there is a top (piece that goes facing up is the flat piece) and the slightly thicker beveled piece to the bottom...I had to drop it 2 x because of that mistake...only takes 15 mins to drop.

The rear bushings just stick the pipe in there and have so one start putting pressure on the subframe with a jack and the bushing will slide in....don't waste your time trying to hold it in with your hand. If you can source a 4" pipe you can skip a lot of steps on the removal...but will only save 5-10 mins a bushing if that. These powerflex bushing are firm...but have not seen a M3 bushing to compare.

I got mine at bimmerzone for $299.00 get more powerflex grease or just use marine grease.

[robc1976]

I have a lockdown differential kit DIY ready to post, most of it is installed....waiting on my differential to get back lol!!

[SteveAZ]

Thanks, got a track day scheduled for March 8th...I want those floppy pogo'n SOBs outa there, it drives me nuts!

I'm assuming 4" OD? I already have a 4" hole saw...lol

Are those stock bushing fluid filled? If not, couldn't we literally take a hole saw to them and cut them out?

Oh...and you need to change out your brake lines and fluid, I'd do a DIY for ya but I already did mine

I've got tons of marine grease..have a boat and live in a lake community...always using that stuff!

I saw the P-flex dude on 1addicts...quoted me MSRP ($299)...WTF?...lol

[robc1976]

Originally Posted by SteveAZ

Thanks, got a track day scheduled for March 8th...I want those floppy pogo'n SOBs outa there, it drives me nuts!

I'm assuming 4" OD? I already have a 4" hole saw...lol

Are those stock bushing fluid filled? If not, couldn't we literally take a hole saw to them and cut them out?

Oh...and you need to change out your brake lines and fluid, I'd do a DIY for ya but I already did mine

I've got tons of marine grease..have a boat and live in a lake community...always using that stuff!

I saw the P-flex dude on 1addicts...quoted me MSRP ($299)...WTF?...lol

The stock bushing have that flange on the outside, so a 3/34"-4 inside diameter pipe is needed (McMaster Carr probable base a 3/34"-4" pipe nipple with cap, I just didnt want to wait lol!!) you wouldn't be able to cut the bushing out...lot of metal in them and would take for ever and be VERY messy. I may go to SS brake lines...so I left mine lone lol!!

[SteveAZ]

Hmmm, looks like your rears were one piece and your fronts were two piece?

Found these, they look to be 2 piece front and rear with solid metal tubes like yours, wonder if there is much of a difference...I definitely like the price better...LOL

[robc1976]

Originally Posted by SteveAZ

Hmmm, looks like your rears were one piece and your fronts were two piece?

Found these, they look to be 2 piece front and rear with solid metal tubes like yours, wonder if there is much of a difference...I definitely like the price better...LOL

they will be easier to install in the rear possibly, but are they made as good? I wouldn't want to do this job and then find out.

[tofu]

Originally Posted by robc1976

no alignment need, only thing you have to take loose is the bottom shock nut. The 2 piece in the front pop right in but be sure there is a top (piece that goes facing up is the flat piece) and the slightly thicker beveled piece to the bottom...I had to drop it 2 x because of that mistake...only takes 15 mins to drop.

The rear bushings just stick the pipe in there and have so one start putting pressure on the subframe with a jack and the bushing will slide in....don't waste your time trying to hold it in with your hand. If you can source a 4" pipe you can skip a lot of steps on the removal...but will only save 5-10 mins a bushing if that. These powerflex bushing are firm...but have not seen a M3 bushing to compare.

I got mine at bimmerzone for $299.00 get more powerflex grease or just use marine grease.

i got mine at bimmerzone as well for $270 or $280 shipped. Give them a call and ask for a better price. they'll probably work with you.

the m3 bushings are a lot harder to put in. the powerflex pop in like nothing in comparison. i don't see much purpose in upgrading to m3 over powerflex anyway.

[tofu]

Originally Posted by SteveAZ

Thanks, got a track day scheduled for March 8th...I want those floppy pogo'n SOBs outa there, it drives me nuts!

I'm assuming 4" OD? I already have a 4" hole saw...lol

Are those stock bushing fluid filled? If not, couldn't we literally take a hole saw to them and cut them out?

Oh...and you need to change out your brake lines and fluid, I'd do a DIY for ya but I already did mine

I've got tons of marine grease..have a boat and live in a lake community...always using that stuff!

I saw the P-flex dude on 1addicts...quoted me MSRP ($299)...WTF?...lol

home depot has everything you need to make your own pull/press kit out of black pipe union, threaded rod, and washers

you could use an air chisel to get the old ones out if you want to do things that way, but it seems like a lot of work

[robc1976]

Originally Posted by tofu

home depot has everything you need to make your own pull/press kit out of black pipe union, threaded rod, and washers

you could use an air chisel to get the old ones out if you want to do things that way, but it seems like a lot of work

no they don't, biggest pipe they have is 2" diameter...I went to 5 of them lol!! I want to a plumbers warehouse...still couldn't get anything. Homedepot has everything but the 4" pipe (thread nipple).

[tofu]

really? they had so many usable unions when i did mine. i ended up using a Y union and just returning it afterward

[robc1976]

Originally Posted by tofu

really? they had so many usable unions when i did mine. i ended up using a Y union and just returning it afterward

May just be mine LOL!! it sucked!!

[tofu]

yeah i think 4" is the standard for main drain/sewage piping in the house lol

[robc1976]

added reference pic of diameter of bushing to DIY at end

[robc1976]

Originally Posted by tofu

yeah i think 4" is the standard for main drain/sewage piping in the house lol

I know and no plumbers had any, well only in 20 ft section....2" is the normal threaded pipe nipple but I couldn't find a 4" pipe....it was like " the diamond in the rough lol!!!

[SteveAZ]

I posted this on 1addicts where we were discussing the Prothane (Whiteline) bushings. On this and maybe that forum Rob has done a very nice job of detailing his install so I am just supplementing it with my experience for them and pasting it here for those that may find it helpful. I didn't really document mine as Rob did a great job...I just made a few changes that may or may not have been specific to my car.





First two pics are obviously the mounted bushings but the third is my removal tool....hahaha...a 22mm 1/2" socket. Between that, a propane torch, a two jacks, it was really easy.

Frankly, based on my car, I don't know why this has been made out to be so hard, a bit time consuming...took me a bit under 4 hours but I was working alone and wasted an extra 45 min on the first side. Second side literally took me 45 minutes total.

Have to wait for the wife to get home to help me finish bleeding the brakes...took it for a short drive but there is still air in the lines as I couldn't get it all out myself.

Immediately notice a difference between stock, not while driving but while installing. When I lowered the first side of the subframe, I had to keep it supported by a jack so it didn't drop too far. When I was lowering the second side, the jack released before getting enough clearance and I had to push down on the subframe to get enough clearance. I'll post the steps next, I didn't take any more pics but this is pretty easy. If somebody local ends up wanting to do it...I'll help and do a detailed DIY.

[SteveAZ]

Steps I took to do this....

-Set rear parking brake
-Block front tires so car can't roll forward
-Remove ground terminal from battery (I'm paranoid of setting of an airbag or something)
-Jack up the rear of the car and support on blocks, best place to support is under rear jack spots
-Remove rear wheels
-Remove rear under body trays (guessing this is only needed for verts
-Remove rear bracing (only for verts?)
-Remove rear diffuser (easier to see, use jack, and remove exhaust)
-Remove cat back exhaust
-Disconnect rear brake lines (they are located on drivers side, will take a pick and post later)
-Remove brake sensor cables from their retaining clips...no need to unplug anything
-Remove e-brake lines from their retaining guides to create some slack...no need to un-attach them from calipers
-Use floor jack to raise control but leave access to lower shock mount
-Remove lower nut from shock
-Here is where I used 2 jacks, I put one under the control arm ( I used a quad lift that has a padded platform that worked very well. Put floor jack under rear control arm at shock mount. And jack both of them up until the arm is compressed and that side of the car is still supported by the blocks.
-Remove the bolts and bracket for the front RSFB
-Remove the bolt and plate for the rear RSFB
-Slowly let the control arm down until you can remove the spring and you'll see you have plenty of remove to remove the bushings. Take the spring out...be careful...I don't want to read of anybody getting hurt or damaging their car because they released tension on the spring to fast.
-Now the fun part, leave the rear jack (my quad lift) under the control arm supporting it. Move the other jack to a good lift point (I'll try and take pics) near the front bushing.
-Put the 1/2" socket between the frame and bushing as shown
-Jack up both the control arm and that side of the RSF until you lift the car approx 1/4" off the support lock
-Slowly and evenly heat the RSF around that bushing and watch the bottom of the bushing start start to appear
-As the car lowers itself back o to the block, jack it up another 1/4" and repeat until the bushing pops out.
-Viola, thoroughly grease the bushings ( I lubed the whole thing) and I found it easiest to put the top half in first with the metal bushing installed. Jack up the RSF to seat it (if needed) and then put the lower piece in place, I used a rubber mallet to get it started and then used the RSFB bolt and plate to seat it.
-Rinse and repeat until finished...not hard but be careful and don't burn anything. The gas tank is close by on the passenger side and don't burn your brake sensors or retaining clips.

Good luck

Having not seen the M3 bushings, I don't know if you can use this method...the Powerflex rear bushings will be a bit more of a challenge but you could use Rob's bar method to keep them aligned while compressing them.

Thanks to him for his DIY illustrating things...it was a nice reference.

[robc1976]

Originally Posted by SteveAZ

I posted this on 1addicts where we were discussing the Prothane (Whiteline) bushings. On this and maybe that forum Rob has done a very nice job of detailing his install so I am just supplementing it with my experience for them and pasting it here for those that may find it helpful. I didn't really document mine as Rob did a great job...I just made a few changes that may or may not have been specific to my car.





First two pics are obviously the mounted bushings but the third is my removal tool....hahaha...a 22mm 1/2" socket. Between that, a propane torch, a two jacks, it was really easy.

Frankly, based on my car, I don't know why this has been made out to be so hard, a bit time consuming...took me a bit under 4 hours but I was working alone and wasted an extra 45 min on the first side. Second side literally took me 45 minutes total.

Have to wait for the wife to get home to help me finish bleeding the brakes...took it for a short drive but there is still air in the lines as I couldn't get it all out myself.

Immediately notice a difference between stock, not while driving but while installing. When I lowered the first side of the subframe, I had to keep it supported by a jack so it didn't drop too far. When I was lowering the second side, the jack released before getting enough clearance and I had to push down on the subframe to get enough clearance. I'll post the steps next, I didn't take any more pics but this is pretty easy. If somebody local ends up wanting to do it...I'll help and do a detailed DIY.

VERY nice job!! Hey, in the first pic I think you have the bushing backwards..."flat side" goes to car and the "slightly rounded" part goes to bottom with brace....may be fine....just looked like the flat side was on the bottom in your first pic.

[robc1976]

Originally Posted by SteveAZ

Steps I took to do this....

-Set rear parking brake
-Block front tires so car can't roll forward
-Remove ground terminal from battery (I'm paranoid of setting of an airbag or something)
-Jack up the rear of the car and support on blocks, best place to support is under rear jack spots
-Remove rear wheels
-Remove rear under body trays (guessing this is only needed for verts
-Remove rear bracing (only for verts?)
-Remove rear diffuser (easier to see, use jack, and remove exhaust)
-Remove cat back exhaust
-Disconnect rear brake lines (they are located on drivers side, will take a pick and post later)
-Remove brake sensor cables from their retaining clips...no need to unplug anything
-Remove e-brake lines from their retaining guides to create some slack...no need to un-attach them from calipers
-Use floor jack to raise control but leave access to lower shock mount
-Remove lower nut from shock
-Here is where I used 2 jacks, I put one under the control arm ( I used a quad lift that has a padded platform that worked very well. Put floor jack under rear control arm at shock mount. And jack both of them up until the arm is compressed and that side of the car is still supported by the blocks.
-Remove the bolts and bracket for the front RSFB
-Remove the bolt and plate for the rear RSFB
-Slowly let the control arm down until you can remove the spring and you'll see you have plenty of remove to remove the bushings. Take the spring out...be careful...I don't want to read of anybody getting hurt or damaging their car because they released tension on the spring to fast.
-Now the fun part, leave the rear jack (my quad lift) under the control arm supporting it. Move the other jack to a good lift point (I'll try and take pics) near the front bushing.
-Put the 1/2" socket between the frame and bushing as shown
-Jack up both the control arm and that side of the RSF until you lift the car approx 1/4" off the support lock
-Slowly and evenly heat the RSF around that bushing and watch the bottom of the bushing start start to appear
-As the car lowers itself back o to the block, jack it up another 1/4" and repeat until the bushing pops out.
-Viola, thoroughly grease the bushings ( I lubed the whole thing) and I found it easiest to put the top half in first with the metal bushing installed. Jack up the RSF to seat it (if needed) and then put the lower piece in place, I used a rubber mallet to get it started and then used the RSFB bolt and plate to seat it.
-Rinse and repeat until finished...not hard but be careful and don't burn anything. The gas tank is close by on the passenger side and don't burn your brake sensors or retaining clips.

Good luck

Having not seen the M3 bushings, I don't know if you can use this method...the Powerflex rear bushings will be a bit more of a challenge but you could use Rob's bar method to keep them aligned while compressing them.

Thanks to him for his DIY illustrating things...it was a nice reference.

i like your technique....very good idea....I will try this on my next install....installing some for a member. I did not have to disconnect any brake lines, but will admit it may be a good idea...mine where just a bit stretched.

[SteveAZ]

Originally Posted by robc1976

VERY nice job!! Hey, in the first pic I think you have the bushing backwards..."flat side" goes to car and the "slightly rounded" part goes to bottom with brace....may be fine....just looked like the flat side was on the bottom in your first pic.

It is....according to install guide...it's supposed to be....no?

http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/ins...ides/Z5215.pdf