Wanted to make a sticky to explain what the JB4 upgrade is, post interface/firmware as needed, provide updates on availability, etc. Any and all information you need is in this first post. There is no important additional information provided in the other 47 pages of BS here that is not in this first post.
So what's new?
The JB4 is an upgrade to the JB3 that replaces it's control box with a new much more technically capable box. The new box features 5x the processing power, 2x the memory, better signal conditioning, a more robust power supply, integrated CAN communications, and additional inputs and outputs for future use. CAN specifically is the largest improvement allowing access to hundreds of new parameters, commands, and potential tuning features. In place so far are in dash gauges, shift light, built in code reading/deleting, steering wheel controls, on the fly map switching with confirmation, a completely new CAN based boost control system, cold oil protection, built in DPFIX, auto learning, E85 support, etc, and many more to come.
The same BMS USB cable is used for all of our tunes and strongly suggested for free software updates and new features as we post them.
Note: The N54 JB4 comes in two varieties. The G4 board and G5 board. The G5 board can be identified by the firmware date under the "user adjustment" tab. If your firmware date has a //2 after it, you have a G5 board. If your firmware date has a //0 or //255 after it, you have a G4 board. Take caution not to upload G4 firmware to a G5 board or vice versa as you'll trigger various codes and headaches. New JB4s shipping after around 12/1/2012 are G5 boards. Additional G5 specific information is posted below.
We will update this thread with more information as needed!
Software, updates, and directions:
JB4 Interface:Latest Interface Download. When updating your interface you may need to first go to "add remove programs" and "remove" your previous JB4 interface.
Interface changes: Changed some of the user adjustable variable names to better reflect their current uses. Lagfix has been updated to default wastegate position. Bogfix has been updated to Future Use E. Added N55 135/335 ISO default setting option.
If you need directions on how to connect a laptop to your JB4 to update firmware or how to datalog Click here.
Maps:
Map 0: Stock bypass. This is the only map you may use the OBDII diagnostic port with. Set to map 0 before dropping off for service, using a BT, etc.
Map 1: 13psi (suggested for most stock applications)
Map 2: 14.5psi (suggested for those with downpipes and 93 octane)
Map 3: Progressive meth mapping with flow sensor failsafe. See guide to enable. Meth use isn't supported/suggested without a flow sensor and map 3.
Map 4: Stock map w/ CAN active. Allows full logging and in dash gauges on the stock mapping.
Map 5: Autotuning map. Boost ranges between 12-17psi based on your cars octane, conditions, and modifications. Fully E85 compatible. If using E85 we suggest around 30-40%.
Map 6: User defined boost map.
Map 7: Race gas map. 16.5psi on G4 board, 18psi on G5 board. Requires straight 100-104+ RM2 octane racing fuel.
Map 8: Economy / Non-Turbo map. Triggers a 3100 "reduced power mode" code while active. After switching back to a normal map you will need to restart the car for the code to clear.
1) Steering wheel controls menu attached. We will update the chart as new commands are added.
2) If you have an offroad race car with downpipes the DPFIX is no longer needed. Remove it and put its wiring back to stock. If you lost the jumper wires you can relocate 3 wires from unused locations within your PnP harness. Just check for spots that do not have a factory wire connected and salvage the jumper. Turn autoclear on in the JB4 by selecting option 1/3. With autoclear enabled real codes will still throw a check engine light.
3) JB4 has cold/hot oil protection built in. So expect stock like boost until oil temps are > 160 degrees. Same goes for oil temps > 280 degrees.
4) Upon installing the interface you will want to select "G4" or "G5" board under settings to ensure the proper settings are loaded should you ever update your firmware.
G5 Board Specific Features and Directions:
As many know we've recently released a new JB4 board called the G5. The G5 has everything the G4 has in addition to:
1) A revised boost control system allowing both isolated or integrated control with no hardware PWM/duty cycle limits, etc. PWM limiting is all software/firmware based.
2) Built in crank position offset (CPS) and speed limit defeat (SLD) through additional wires that can be connected to the DB9 connector w/ the BMS USB cable.
3) An extra high current output that can be used to power a 2STEP relay, nitrous relay, etc.
4) Smaller O2 biasing resistors allowing a wider range of AFR adjustment.
5) Some additional analog and digital I/O for future expansion.
Basically, the idea with the G5 is to address the evolving tuning needs of our higher horsepower customers. The G5 uses unique firmware.
The G5 board upgrade is $150 outright. We no longer offer a trade in program on G4 boards.
Also the extra wires and relay system are ala-cart. e.g. wires to enable SLD or CPS $10, and relay with PNP connector for 2STEP/NLS $35, for those that need them.
Note: The G5 board can be identified by the firmware date under the "user adjustment" tab. If your firmware date has a //2 after it, you have a G5 board. If your firmware date has a //0 or //255 after it, you have a G4 board. Take caution not to upload G4 firmware to a G5 board or vice versa as you'll trigger various codes and headaches. In the interface be sure to select "G5 ISO" under settings if using a G5 board.
The G5 plugs in to the same JB4 harness, although those using older harnesses may need to swap around wires on the DB25. Previously DB25 positions 10 and 22, and 11 and 23 were interchangeable. Now, the female connectors of each pair must be on 22 and 23 or you will get a wastegate fault. We don't have notes on when we started orienting them in the current proper configuration but we think it was around 2010. Harnesses that don't have a white connector, or that have an old 3 port expansion connector, will definitely need to be checked with a multimeter and those pins moved around in the DB25 using a DSUB tool as needed.
DB9 slots for extra wires are as follows:
2: SLD Output (female), connects to gray connector position #17 as read from the female side.
4: CPS Output (female), connects to large black connector position #29 as read from the female side.
6: SLD Input (male), goes in male end of gray position #17 as read from the female side.
7: 2STEP / Relay input / ground, relay intercepts green power connector position #8.
8: Clutch input for NLS, connects to jumper wire installed in gray subconnector position #18 as read from the female side.
9: CPS Input (male), goes in male end of large black #29 as read from female side.
Basic directions for connecting 2STEP/CLUTCH wire:
1) Locate green power connector, open bottom flap, and remove #8 orange wire. Place 2STEP relay red wire in its place. Connect #8 orange wire you removed to the 2STEP relay blue/white wire using preinstalled connector.
2) Put green power connector back in its location with relay hanging below or next to it.
3) Connect 2STEP black, which will have a wire nut connecting to an extension wire, in to the USB cable position #7.
4) For the NLS to work you must also install a clutch wire. Connect this to USB cable position #8.
5) Connect the male/female end of the clutch wire in to the gray DME connector position #18 as read from the female end. Either by removing the PNP connector and extracting that jumper wire, or simply removing the wire, sticking the female end in, connecting the OEM female wire in the new male pin, and folding a piece of tape in half over it. The wire needs to read the clutch signal.
6) To enable NLS you must set FutureUseE (previously bogfix) set to 0. NLS will cut engine power when pressing the clutch while gas is fully pressed and restore it when you let the clutch back out again. Practice doing full throttle runs at lower RPM to get the hang of it. When you press the clutch in while the gas is 100% down the RPM should drop like a rock. If they don't, you've botched the install.
7) Note if the car cranks without starting after installing the relay something is likely wired wrong. If you are unable to sort it out just email in install photos for support.
I made a post asking for help in this thread and I can't find it now. Where did it go?
Support requests and bug reports are generally deleted or moved from this thread without being read. If you require assistance from BMS email us at terry@burgertuning.com. Otherwise for forum support or general help me posts please take advantage of n54tech's support section.
I got a 29F2 low fuel pressure code, what do I do?
These codes are typical if your high or low fuel pressure pumps are weak. So those are the first suspect. Assuming they are OK it might be a false code that you can adjust out with the JB4 interface. In some cars when E85 mixtures are used the auto learning may not properly range open loop fueling, triggering false 29F2 fuel pressure codes, and you will need to set it manually. To do this first disable open loop learning by setting FutureUseA = 2 for G4 boards, or FutureUseB = 2 for G5 ISO boards. Then start with an open loop setting of 75. If you experience 29F2 codes lower the setting by 5 until they subside. If your fuel trims are stuck over 50, you experience run lean failsafe (4 SES flashes), or encounter frequent 2D25 tuner codes, increase the setting by 5 until they subside. If your high fuel pressure is consistently below 13 when open loop is 75% or higher you likely have a physical fuel pump problem. If you are unable to find a suitable setting to avoid both 29F2 and 2D25 codes you will need to reduce the alcohol content of your fuel (e.g. if mixing in E85 mix in less), lower the all map AFR settings by 50% to lean the air/fuel targets, and/or use a fixed boost map like 1 or 2.
If upgrading from an old JB3 system how do I rewire my harness to be compatible with a new JB4 box?
Details are below and it takes around 15 minutes at home. If after reviewing the guide you would prefer to pay us $25 to do the harness upgrade for you then select the appropriate upgrade kit from our site. We will hold your JB4 upgrade kit until you mail in your harness and box, modify the harness, and send the modified harness and JB4 box back to you. There will be a 1-2 week delay between when we receive your harness and return the modified harness.
For directions on how to modify your old JB3 wiring harness for the JB4 (including the old pin out harness) click here.
For directions on how to install the JB4 power wire click here. Note this is the only actual install change from the JB3.
What is menu 5 for? Why doesn't my speed move in increments of 10 when making selections?
Upon installing the JB4 you'll need to use the menu 5 option to properly calibrate your gauges. Otherwise the numbers on the speedo, fuel gauge, and oil gauge won't align properly. You'll count up to 5 then set the tach based on your model and speedo type. Refer to the link below for the steering wheel controls sheet.
How do I read out and delete codes?
There are two methods. The easiest method for beginners is to connect the laptop interface and use the "read codes" button as indicated in the image below. This will give a full listing along with descriptions. Alternatively for more advanced users or if a laptop isn't available you may use the in dash reading on menu 1 option 1. For additional directions click here.
How does the traction assist work?
If you find traction problems too severe in 1st and/or 2nd gear you can cap the maximum boost/torque achieved in those gears to aid with traction. You'll find them under user settings. A value of 10.0 in 1st and 12.0 in 2nd will limit boost to 10.0psi while in 1st gear and 12.0psi while in 2nd gear. When in 1st or 2nd gear under the boost limit you may hold down the steering wheel volume or talk button to bypass the limit while the button is held down. For example if doing a burn out at the track.
I got a misfire code. What should I do?
Misfire codes are very common on the N54 motor and are generally either a defective plug, coil, injector, or if the misfires happen across multiple cylinders could also be an o2 sensor or high pressure fuel pump. The higher the power levels the more apparent hardware weakness are so often they will crop up first at only higher power levels. Eventually though, they will come up at OEM power levels too. If your plugs have over 15k miles on them I'd suggest switching them out. If that doesn't do the trick you can switch the coil on the misfiring cylinder over to another cylinder to see if the misfire moves with it. If it does, then replace that coil.
How does auto clear work?
For non-emissions vehicles auto clear will delete tuner and downpipe codes. It will not allow emissions readiness to be set. Auto clear will delete all passive codes but active codes will continue to show a check engine light. If you see a check engine light with auto clear on switch to map 0 to prevent auto clear from attempting to delete the code before you are able to read it.
What is MaxCool mode?
MaxCool is an JB4 algorithm that improves engine cooling by increasing the speed of the electric water pump and engine cooling fan as a function of water temperature. When enabled you may hear the very loud engine fan and water pump running more often including at idle. MaxCool can be left on full time if you desire and is compatible with add on oil and water coolers such as the BMW PPK kit.
What are the user settings and which ones should I change?
Most are there for diagnostic use only and should not be touched unless you are directed to by BMS technical support or your tuner. The settings you might adjust are documented below.
Boost failsafe PSI: If boost exceeds this value for more than one second the JB4 will switch to low boost map 4 until the car is restarted. Note this setting has no impact on what actual boost you run. That is determined by the map selected.
1st / 2nd gear boost limit: For cars with poor traction limiting boost in 1st gear to 9psi and 2nd gear to 12psi can offer your tires some relief.
Default wastegate position: This determines the positions of your wastegate during cruise and low throttle. Lower settings will feel softer while higher settings will feel more "boost happy" at low throttle. The default setting is 80.
FutureUseD: Various logging parameters which vary by firmware version. Refer to firmware notes for the options here.
Where is the HEX firmware file?
At the bottom of this post. Remember the G5_ firmware is ONLY for G5 boards. The last G4 firmware released was 8/21/2012 and is also linked below for those needing to update older G4 systems.
If I decide to get the optional USB cable for free firmware updates how to I route it?
For the USB cable you have a couple options. Option 1 is to route it over the rubber grommet under the DME cover and leave it there for quick access.You'll just have to lift up the one snap on black panel and can then route it in the window or door jamb. Option 2 is to route it in to the glove box. There is a DIY here: http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6557
This is getting really exciting. Terry, for the exchange process (core return) will we have to deal with our original point of purchase? (Effectively doubling the shipping costs..) Or will we be able to deal directly with BMS? I understand that you'll be very overwhelmed with core returns when this goes live, but dealing directly with BMS I'm sure would be preferable to avoid delays and extra shipping costs.
eventually Terry!!! so if i order jb4 when it will be in stock lets say in Mikes store or Burger i get it right away or i need to wait?
about autotuning its automaticaly? Just install and go? and about firmware it will be loaded ready to go? about those maps if we will have autotuning and it will adapt auto to our mods and fuel why we need those maps from 1-7 on a tach?
speedo 1 its 1km and TACH 1 postition ? what i press to activate read codes lets say i can see it in a dash or i need laptop? do i do it with motor on or off?
Can we change maps on motor or off only igniton on?
hmmm. I was thinking that the beta would be ready by Holloween. I guess Thanksgiving will have to do.
Is there a sign up for beta testing..... Since alpha didn't seem to be offered here on N54 can I be first on the Beta List?
As far as the meth mapping for the lite board, How exactly will that be different than what the CMGS does now? Will this feature offer progressive mapping for the bms basic kit owner or is it going to add a dimension to the CMGS by feeding back boost or timing back to the already progressive controller?
eventually Terry!!! so if i order jb4 when it will be in stock lets say in Mikes store or Burger i get it right away or i need to wait?
about autotuning its automaticaly? Just install and go? and about firmware it will be loaded ready to go? about those maps if we will have autotuning and it will adapt auto to our mods and fuel why we need those maps from 1-7 on a tach?
speedo 1 its 1km and TACH 1 postition ? what i press to activate read codes lets say i can see it in a dash or i need laptop? do i do it with motor on or off?
Can we change maps on motor or off only igniton on?
If you are ordering a brand new tune then you may have to wait a little longer as we complete all the upgrade orders, but once stocks stabilize all new units will be shipping as the JB4.
If you already have a JB3 then you will just need the JB4 board and that will be available first.
My recommendation is just to get the existing JB3 now if you don't have it as the JB4 upgrade will be FREE for you [Can't beat that deal]
Terry, can you elaborate on the Drag launch feature? Will it work with AT? Because my main problem is the turbo lag from the moment i let off the brake. If I was able to stall up and build boost, i could have cut a 1.7 or even 1.6 and been in the 11s on my tune only run