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Vertigo Vertigo is offline
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Default 535i AEM 320 LPFP INSTALLATION DIY / HOW TO - 02-02-2014, 07:38 PM

I know there has been a lot of interest in the 535i AEM E85 LPFP install so having just completed this today I thought I would throw it up here...

Required:
1. AEM 320 E85 pump (dark green with red wire, big black wire, small black wire)
2. 10mm racket
3. Exacto Knife
4. Heat shrink tubing
5. Soldering Iron and Solder
6. Wire strippers
7. 2 feet of 5/16 gas hose with hose clamps

For those who do not already know the 535i has a Lower Pressure Fuel Pump LPFP on the passenger side rear seat and a fuel transfer pump on the drivers side that pumps fuel from the drivers side of the gas tank over to the passenger side of the gas tank. There is a Hardened plastic hose that transfers fuel from the drivers side of the gas tank over to the LPFP outlet on top. This hardened plastic hose needs to be replaced partly...


Step 0: Disconnect Negative Battery terminal in truck.


Step 1...
Remove the rear seat. All you need to do here is pull up with about 20 lbs of force at the driver side passenger knees and the same at the passenger side passenger knees. The seat is small and light and easy to take out.

Step 2...
Lift the black insulation cover and you will see a black cover that covers the opening of the lpfp bucket on the passenger side and the drives side transfer pump bucket. The black covers are held in place by 4 10mm nuts. Remove these and put them in a safe place. Remove the black covers.

Step 3...
Metal Locking rings... These are removed by taking a long and wide headed flat screwdriver (The tip should not be sharp as you don't want to cut the metal tabs). Using the screwdriver and a hammer tap the locking ring counter clockwise to loose it. The ring will need to go around almost 1 - 1.5 times before you can remove it. Once you have these removed you will now be able to lift the buckets out (after disconnecting the connectors on top).

Step 4...
The LPFP sits inside the bucket on the passenger side. To get at the OEM LPFP you will need to remove the high cover that sits over the white plastic bucket and the white plastic bucket cover itself. The high cover has two metal poles with one having a spring. Using some dykes pull the spring down and grab the metal bar as close to the white plastic up top as possible twist the dykes up regrip and repeat several times to pull the metal pole out of the high plastic hole that it sits in. Do the same for the other metal pole.
The high plastic cover is off now. Now pop (break the round pop rivets off the cover using a small flat screw driver to get between the bucket and the cover. Yes you are breaking the cover off here and will have to melt a hole in the side and the top and thread a small zip tie through them and pull shut during re-install.

Step 5...
Remove the LPFP from the bucket. Disconnect the wiring harness and float / tank level electrical connector.

STEP 6...!!!
Previously we read that you would need to disconnect the hose that runs from the drivers side transfer pump to be able to pull it out on the LPFP side and replace it with the 2' rubber 5/16 hose. Well after struggling with this for some time. I realized that when reaching down into the tank from the LFPF passenger side I felt where the fused plastic hose coming out from the top of the LPFP eventually hit a white Y fitting in the middle of the gas tank in between the two holes. After putting the drivers side bucket back in to get as much slack as possible I was able to pull with about 15lbs of force and pull the plastic hose out just enough to be able to see the white Y connector down in the tank. At this point I used some locking plyers to hold the connector exposed so I could use and exacto knife to carefully cut the fused plastic hose off the Y fitting and put the 5/16 rubber hose on and tighten the hose clamp with a 1/4" socket!!! Also, I forgot to mention that there are 3 or 4 hoses the run across the tank between the transfer pump and the LPFP. These 4 hoses are all zip tied together in several places. I was able to snip all the zip ties with some dykes. You should probably do this to allow you to only stretch the LFPF line when pulling on it and not to be pulling against the other 3 hoses at the same time.

Step 7...
Install the AEM pump in the bucket. Be careful to put the wiring in the rght location though the white cover you took off. Trim some slack off the 5/16 rubber hose and connect the other end to the AEM red / top / outlet side. When you drop the new AEM lpfp pump into the black piece make sure the inlet/suction is in the round hole at the bottom. There is no need to use the screen that comes with the AEM pump. It will suck gas through the screen on the bottom of the bucket.

Step 8...
Install the black bucket into the white bucket. We ended up cutting the OEM connector off and soldering the Red AEM wire to the Green wire and the Big Black AEM wire to the Black wire and the little black wire to the AEM little black wire. Used to layers of heat shrink to cover the bare wires.

Step 9....
Re-install everything. DONE!



2008 335i stock

Last edited by Vertigo; 02-03-2014 at 11:36 AM..
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MrNeef MrNeef is offline
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Default 02-03-2014, 08:10 PM

nice job.

any issues? how much e85 is the car running?

I had a shop install this FBM unit I have now and after seeing your post, I think I know whats wrong with my car.

My car would not go below half tank (gauge) so I am assuming the pump on driver's side wasnt pushing the fuel over to the passenger side. Maybe it was damaged when they installed the LPFP? Hoping so but will look into it now.

Thanks again, would love to hear/see some data on pulls...


2008 535i AT

(Pure Stage 2 + Dr. Euro D/P + VRSF Inlets/Outlets + ER FMIC + ER Charge Pipe + Tial BOV + BMS Filters + Fuel-It Stage 2 LPFP + Full catback + MHD Flash + KW V1) - (Cobb V2 + V3 sitting in a box) = Broke
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Vertigo Vertigo is offline
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Default 02-03-2014, 08:35 PM

More than likely they didnt position the hoses and wires away from the float preventing it from swinging full sweep.


2008 335i stock
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MrNeef MrNeef is offline
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Default 02-03-2014, 09:11 PM

Ok thanks will have that looked at


2008 535i AT

(Pure Stage 2 + Dr. Euro D/P + VRSF Inlets/Outlets + ER FMIC + ER Charge Pipe + Tial BOV + BMS Filters + Fuel-It Stage 2 LPFP + Full catback + MHD Flash + KW V1) - (Cobb V2 + V3 sitting in a box) = Broke
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Default 02-05-2014, 05:36 PM

Yeah, that's an obvious mistake. Check the passenger side if they ran the hose outside the floater arm so it is trapped. Might need to re-lead the fuel hose. Simple fix.
If so it will take some time for the fuel gauge to adjust properly.
Been there!


Sleeper 5 series
Performance: Pro tuned MHD, xHP Stage 3 TCU flash, DCI, AR kittens, ER FMIC & CP, Fuel-It Stage 2 LPFP w ported rail, RB turbos, RB inlets, KW V2, Mfactory LSD
Audio: Jehnert Flatline speakers, Mobridge M1000 DA2 digital preamp, Helix P-DSP, Zapco Z-150.6 amp, CIC iDrive upgrade
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gabeamin gabeamin is offline
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Default 03-09-2015, 07:19 PM

this works but make sure you use submersible fuel line. the normal stuff will swell and bust. I had an awful weekend with fuel issues by not using that hose. its about 30 bucs a foot.


Da man 50 grand!
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gabeamin gabeamin is offline
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Default 03-22-2016, 10:45 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vertigo
I know there has been a lot of interest in the 535i AEM E85 LPFP install so having just completed this today I thought I would throw it up here...

Required:
1. AEM 320 E85 pump (dark green with red wire, big black wire, small black wire)
2. 10mm racket
3. Exacto Knife
4. Heat shrink tubing
5. Soldering Iron and Solder
6. Wire strippers
7. 2 feet of 5/16 gas hose with hose clamps

For those who do not already know the 535i has a Lower Pressure Fuel Pump LPFP on the passenger side rear seat and a fuel transfer pump on the drivers side that pumps fuel from the drivers side of the gas tank over to the passenger side of the gas tank. There is a Hardened plastic hose that transfers fuel from the drivers side of the gas tank over to the LPFP outlet on top. This hardened plastic hose needs to be replaced partly...


Step 0: Disconnect Negative Battery terminal in truck.


Step 1...
Remove the rear seat. All you need to do here is pull up with about 20 lbs of force at the driver side passenger knees and the same at the passenger side passenger knees. The seat is small and light and easy to take out.

Step 2...
Lift the black insulation cover and you will see a black cover that covers the opening of the lpfp bucket on the passenger side and the drives side transfer pump bucket. The black covers are held in place by 4 10mm nuts. Remove these and put them in a safe place. Remove the black covers.

Step 3...
Metal Locking rings... These are removed by taking a long and wide headed flat screwdriver (The tip should not be sharp as you don't want to cut the metal tabs). Using the screwdriver and a hammer tap the locking ring counter clockwise to loose it. The ring will need to go around almost 1 - 1.5 times before you can remove it. Once you have these removed you will now be able to lift the buckets out (after disconnecting the connectors on top).

Step 4...
The LPFP sits inside the bucket on the passenger side. To get at the OEM LPFP you will need to remove the high cover that sits over the white plastic bucket and the white plastic bucket cover itself. The high cover has two metal poles with one having a spring. Using some dykes pull the spring down and grab the metal bar as close to the white plastic up top as possible twist the dykes up regrip and repeat several times to pull the metal pole out of the high plastic hole that it sits in. Do the same for the other metal pole.
The high plastic cover is off now. Now pop (break the round pop rivets off the cover using a small flat screw driver to get between the bucket and the cover. Yes you are breaking the cover off here and will have to melt a hole in the side and the top and thread a small zip tie through them and pull shut during re-install.

Step 5...
Remove the LPFP from the bucket. Disconnect the wiring harness and float / tank level electrical connector.

STEP 6...!!!
Previously we read that you would need to disconnect the hose that runs from the drivers side transfer pump to be able to pull it out on the LPFP side and replace it with the 2' rubber 5/16 hose. Well after struggling with this for some time. I realized that when reaching down into the tank from the LFPF passenger side I felt where the fused plastic hose coming out from the top of the LPFP eventually hit a white Y fitting in the middle of the gas tank in between the two holes. After putting the drivers side bucket back in to get as much slack as possible I was able to pull with about 15lbs of force and pull the plastic hose out just enough to be able to see the white Y connector down in the tank. At this point I used some locking plyers to hold the connector exposed so I could use and exacto knife to carefully cut the fused plastic hose off the Y fitting and put the 5/16 rubber hose on and tighten the hose clamp with a 1/4" socket!!! Also, I forgot to mention that there are 3 or 4 hoses the run across the tank between the transfer pump and the LPFP. These 4 hoses are all zip tied together in several places. I was able to snip all the zip ties with some dykes. You should probably do this to allow you to only stretch the LFPF line when pulling on it and not to be pulling against the other 3 hoses at the same time.

Step 7...
Install the AEM pump in the bucket. Be careful to put the wiring in the rght location though the white cover you took off. Trim some slack off the 5/16 rubber hose and connect the other end to the AEM red / top / outlet side. When you drop the new AEM lpfp pump into the black piece make sure the inlet/suction is in the round hole at the bottom. There is no need to use the screen that comes with the AEM pump. It will suck gas through the screen on the bottom of the bucket.

Step 8...
Install the black bucket into the white bucket. We ended up cutting the OEM connector off and soldering the Red AEM wire to the Green wire and the Big Black AEM wire to the Black wire and the little black wire to the AEM little black wire. Used to layers of heat shrink to cover the bare wires.

Step 9....
Re-install everything. DONE!






did your fuel line bust yet?


Da man 50 grand!
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rcpro88 rcpro88 is offline
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Default 08-30-2016, 11:53 AM

Dont follow this DIY!!!!
1. Don't use Gates submersible fuel hose! Use radium engineering PTFE hose (3/8")
2. The barb on the lpfp and the barb on the Y connect are 3/8"! using a 5/16" hose will work, however using a 5/16" ptfe hose will not go over the barb.
3. Make sure you use EFI hose clamps and not the screw hose clamps
4. DONT install the AEM 320! Install a Walbro 450!
5. Just remove the whole bucket/ don't try to install a pump while the bucket is connected to the fuel filter/ in the tank... you don't want anything to fall in there, and for sure dont want to be soldering next to your open gas tank!
6. if its too much for you, just a fuel it and the Fuel-it/BMS team will help you every step of the way.
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lenn lenn is offline
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Talking 09-01-2017, 07:59 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by rcpro88
Dont follow this DIY!!!!
1. Don't use Gates submersible fuel hose! Use radium engineering PTFE hose (3/8")
2. The barb on the lpfp and the barb on the Y connect are 3/8"! using a 5/16" hose will work, however using a 5/16" ptfe hose will not go over the barb.
3. Make sure you use EFI hose clamps and not the screw hose clamps
4. DONT install the AEM 320! Install a Walbro 450!
5. Just remove the whole bucket/ don't try to install a pump while the bucket is connected to the fuel filter/ in the tank... you don't want anything to fall in there, and for sure dont want to be soldering next to your open gas tank!
6. if its too much for you, just a fuel it and the Fuel-it/BMS team will help you every step of the way.
RCPRO88, did you have any problems fitting the walbro body into the bucket? I'm waiting for the pump to show up, but saw the lower body of the pump is 50mm, versus the sleeve is measuring 49mm. Any tips?

EDIT: I don't comprehend reading comprehension, and just comprehended what you wrote. 3/8 is the way to go. Ordered the correct stuff. :D
[s]I'm waiting for the pump and PTFE hoses to arrive. I'm assuming I should be using 2 pieces of 12" x 3/8" radium hoses right? Thanks for any advice you can offer![/s]

Last edited by lenn; 09-01-2017 at 08:13 AM..
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rcpro88 rcpro88 is offline
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Default 09-08-2017, 02:57 PM

The way I did was by cutting off the bottom of the black bucket. This allows the use of the higher flowing Walbro 450 filter included with the pump.

I used 3 hose clamps connected as one larger clamp. I clamped them to the top of the metal body (if you are using wide hose clamps, its ok to overhang a mm or 2) of the Walbro 450 pump.

Then I measured the distance from the pumps base flare to right under the hose clamps.

Then on the black bucket I cut off the bottom x distance from the top of the black bucket.

Slide in the Walbro 450 through the bottom of the black bucket, then put on hose clamp ring made of 3 hose clamps on the pump, push together and tighten. This securely seats the Walbro 450 in the black bucket as the screw/housing assembly for the hose clamps keep the pump from falling.

Then simply put on the Walbro 450 filter and put it into the white bucket.


VRSF Inlets, Chargepipe, **'s, FMIC
HKS BOV, BMS DCI, BMS Meth Kit
JB4 w/MHD-BMS E85 Backend Flash w/Nexus 7
Custom Map 6 21.5 psi (E70 mix)
Walbro 450 LPFP - 4 Bar TMAP Sensor - Muff Delete
SAT Transmission Flash/retrofit (Thanks to Wedge!)
AD Engineering Oil thermostat - Rob Beck PCV Valve
Gloss Black BMW M359 M3 Competition Wheels
Continental Extreme Contact DWS06 Tires
Installed all the parts myself.
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lenn lenn is offline
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Default 09-09-2017, 07:25 PM

Thanks RCPRO88, great minds think alike, I did something similar, but used zip ties instead. I saw that the filter sock left enough room for suction even if the zip tie snaps. I cut the black bucket so the bottom of the sock would hang the at the same height as the stock pump.

Looking to run the tank down to a 1/4 before I get to install it. Fingers crossed, and thanks for writing back with support!
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rcpro88 rcpro88 is offline
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Default 09-10-2017, 10:20 AM

Lenn,

Hope all goes well with the zip ties. If the bucket is still out of the car I suggest you remove the zip ties and replace with hose clamps. I used zip ties at first then just didn't feel comfortable with them. If they are metal zip ties then you're good, I just don't want you to end up like I have a few times...on the side of the road with my dogs leash tied to the spoke of my car while I removed the backseat to get to my LPFP. However I only ended up on the side of the road due to using the "gates submersible fuel line" and not the PTFE...The piece of mind is worth making sure the thing won't fail...Put on 20,000 miles on my LPFP setup without a single problem. (after I put in PTFE fuel lines) Just run meth if you notice your HPFP pressure dropping.


VRSF Inlets, Chargepipe, **'s, FMIC
HKS BOV, BMS DCI, BMS Meth Kit
JB4 w/MHD-BMS E85 Backend Flash w/Nexus 7
Custom Map 6 21.5 psi (E70 mix)
Walbro 450 LPFP - 4 Bar TMAP Sensor - Muff Delete
SAT Transmission Flash/retrofit (Thanks to Wedge!)
AD Engineering Oil thermostat - Rob Beck PCV Valve
Gloss Black BMW M359 M3 Competition Wheels
Continental Extreme Contact DWS06 Tires
Installed all the parts myself.
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lenn lenn is offline
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Default 09-15-2017, 04:45 PM

Thanks for all the tips RCPRO88. I carefully inspected the bottom of the bucket and filter sock and decided to keep the zip ties (it is a tight fit with little wiggle room, the filter sock prevents the pump from bottoming out on the bucket as well). I also plastic welded the top back onto the bucket. Install complete, now entering reliability testing, fingers crossed!

I'm seeing something weird with my LPFP pressures and opened another thread. Thanks again for all the support!

http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49412

for those that were curious on my "stage 2 upgrade" spend, my total was $220, about 2 hours to assemble the drop in and I still have an OEM backup to replace.
$80 for a OEM bucket and pump (ebay)
$80 for the Walbro 450 (amazon)
$50 for the PTFE radium hoses
$10 for misc PTFE shrink tubing, brass fittings etc.
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