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e46m3to335i e46m3to335i is offline
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Default 05-20-2015, 12:22 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_L
That would be great. I don't suppose that you would be in the NYC/LI area, would you?
Nah man, I'm stationed in Germany


2009 E82 135i: M6 / Alpine White / M-Sport / MHD Stage 1 / Performance Exhaust / Blackline Tails / CDV Mod / BMS PCV / Gloss Black Grilles

DCI's and exhaust things going on soon!!
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Mike_L Mike_L is offline
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Default 05-21-2015, 04:16 PM

Okay, that grommet is there on the F3X too. No idea where it goes inside though. That lower panel has to be held on with more than just the 2 nuts and clips. Its not budging, and with the AC vents running through it and with it wrapping around into the center console area, I'm reluctant to pry on it. Have to go talk to the dealer and see how it comes off.


Mike Levy
2017 X3 xDrive35i
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e46m3to335i e46m3to335i is offline
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Default 05-22-2015, 07:21 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_L
Okay, that grommet is there on the F3X too. No idea where it goes inside though. That lower panel has to be held on with more than just the 2 nuts and clips. Its not budging, and with the AC vents running through it and with it wrapping around into the center console area, I'm reluctant to pry on it. Have to go talk to the dealer and see how it comes off.
That cover is held on by clips as well, mine just popped off when I pulled it down. Took a good amount of pressure to pull it down but I wouldn't say it was that hard.

-Nick


2009 E82 135i: M6 / Alpine White / M-Sport / MHD Stage 1 / Performance Exhaust / Blackline Tails / CDV Mod / BMS PCV / Gloss Black Grilles

DCI's and exhaust things going on soon!!
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Mike_L Mike_L is offline
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Default 05-22-2015, 08:55 AM

Got it! Wasn't horrible. The filing was the worst part. God do I wish I had a cordless Dremel. I'll clean it up next time I need to run an extension cord to the car for something.

Ended up just sticking the JB4Connect box to the inside of the dash panel with HD velcro and making a notch to get the cord out, because there is zero access to the glovebox. Unfortunately, I found out that the secret 12V socket under the dash is always on, so I can't even leave it plugged in there like I had planned. Gotta take the car out for a ride in a bit to make sure nothing is rattling, or the whole things gonna have to come back apart.


Mike Levy
2017 X3 xDrive35i

Last edited by Mike_L; 05-22-2015 at 01:58 PM..
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DaZuc DaZuc is offline
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Default 08-21-2015, 05:02 PM

Thank You, finally wired up my USB to the glovebox.
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qu8storm qu8storm is offline
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Default 10-20-2015, 08:36 AM

Afetr seeing this post i was able to install the cable with no problem at all. Thanks OP
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Default 12-07-2015, 01:36 PM

Thanks, I used this awhile back as well.
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Qualitycontrol Qualitycontrol is offline
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Default 05-08-2016, 06:33 PM

Thanks, I used this tonight. Although I did change it up a bit. Having installed many trailer hitches, I used small flexible wire and fished it up through the foot well of the car. Routed it where I wanted the cable and lifted the tray just enough to fit the usb connector through. I didn't have to unplug anything and it worked like a charm. Thanks a ton.
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cranelec cranelec is offline
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Default Simple Thank You! to the OP & others - 05-09-2016, 06:17 PM

Just did this today! Nothing like the bmw community. a bmw enthusiast comes up with a great DIY and other members improve on it. Took less than 25 minutes.

mike
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mkster08 mkster08 is offline
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Default 06-21-2016, 01:09 AM

You don't need to remove the ecu at all, just unplug those colored plugs closest to the firewall pull out that piece they are mounted to and lift the larger mount box thing a little and use a zip tie or semi stiff wire taped to the usb and pull it thru, takes 5 mins
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Bmxlee Bmxlee is offline
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Default Cooling fan in the way... - 03-19-2017, 06:46 AM

I spent ages trying to feed the USB through the half moon holes only to discover there was an ECU cooling fan attached to the other side. There is simply no way I can do it. There is so much going on under that glove box.

I'm also in RHD 335i.

any suggestions?
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LIeast LIeast is offline
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Default 04-06-2017, 08:21 AM

Thank you for this write up 👌🏼
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Aimfor500 Aimfor500 is offline
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Default 04-09-2017, 10:17 AM

Just did this the other day thanks to this write up. Very late but thanks a lot!


2010 135i . BMS DCI . Deleted Secondary Cats . Deleted Resonator . Dual Turn Downs . VRSF Chargepipe . NGK 5992 Spark Plugs. MHD Stg1+ . RCA Voyager III Tablet . 93oct+E40
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Ren Ren is offline
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Default 08-07-2017, 10:39 PM

I am planning to route a 6pin connector into that firewall hole so i can place it inside the car for easy access. So i can determine the best size connector that can be used, any idea what sizes do that rubber grommets in the firewall are?
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MasterYous MasterYous is offline
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Default F22/F23 (2' LCI) USB Routing DIY - EASY - 03-11-2018, 05:53 PM

Hey guys,

Did quite a bit of digging and research through many threads here and on other sites and for my '17 2er I wanted to post a definitive guide for people who have never done this before. The F22/23 is a bit different than other F series cars and definitely different from the E series write-ups which began this thread. For this to work, you will install your JB4 in the PASSENGER side cowl and route your CANbus molex across the cowl to the driver's side (it's long enough). OR - you can install your JB4 under the driver's side cowl and then run a USB extension cable into the firewall hole I am about to talk through. I chose to install the JB4 under the passenger cowl. This method does not require any fishing tape nor does it require disassembly of the cable. In fact it does not require another person; you can do this yourself. The main tool you will need is a long, flat-head screwdriver - mine is 18 inches long and was perfect for the job, but a little shorter is probably fine. You also need a 10-mm socket wrench or screwdriver. A small flashlight makes things easier.

Anyway here goes.

1) Remove the passenger side cowl cover. There are tons of instructions on this and it's very easy; take a 10mm socket and rotate the three plastic hex bolts to a 90 degree angle, then press the plastic clip on the left side and lift the cover off. The below pic is what it looks like with the over ON:

The following is what it looks like with the cover OFF. You can see part of the cowl cover off to the right, I simply placed it there out of the way. Note the JB4 location. This will be important towards the end of this write-up when we discuss where to route the harness cable; the JB4 is well-situated in front of the black fuse box. Remember above when I said you route the CANbus molex across the cowl to the driver's side - you can see that here too with a sliver of green-colored wire showing, up near the top of the cowl:


2) Now you'll see the black fuse box. It's very easy to remove the lid. Just press the tabs at the four corners. The box is even labeled. Some write-ups suggest you remove the box panel as well, but I did not need to do this. If you want to remove the panel, see page 4 of this thread. Anyway, here is a picture:


3) You may have read about a rubber grommet which sits inside the firewall hole you need to route through. The grommet is located behind the black fuse box and off to the LEFT. Use a flashlight to locate this grommet if you can't see it right away. Some people poke a hole through the grommet, but there is no need to do that - we can pop the grommet off safely. (Once you pop the grommet off, the hole it covered is easily large enough for the JB4 USB cable.) In this photo, I am showing exactly where the hole is relative to the fuse box. I have removed the grommet and routed the cable, but I am also going to discuss removing the grommet safely, below this next picture. This is a close-up, you can see the hole is behind the upper-left tab of the fuse box panel:


Now let's get the grommet out, to route the USB cable through the firewall hole. Rather than poke a hole through the grommet, take a long, flat-head screwdriver, and push in on one of the grommet's sides, not too hard, until the grommet starts to bend into the hole. This should make a lip of the grommet protrude outwards. With a pair of needle-nose pliers, grab the grommet's outer edge, and pull it out.

THIS IS WHAT THE GROMMET LOOKS LIKE - so you know what to look for. In this photo, directly below the grommet, you can see the USB cable through the firewall hole, in the background. This is a different perspective on the picture above, which is a super close-up of the hole and cable.


4) Now, let's get that USB cable through the hole. Place the tip of your flat-head screwdriver into the hole, and poke through the firewall mesh. Push hard, and slightly down and to your right, until you feel the screwdriver push through. Don't worry, there is nothing in the way but padding and more padding. You will have pushed far enough once you no longer feel much resistance as you push the screwdriver.

5) Now take the USB cable and place the USB connector head into the hole. The angle makes it a bit tricky to get enough of the connector head positioned into the hole such that you can then force it through, but keep trying to position the USB connector until you feel it clearing the hole on all sides and ready to go in. You're not applying any force at this point - just positioning.

6) Now take your trusty flat-head and push on the back of the connector in the same direction you poked the hole in step 4. Examine the back of the connector, and you will see it has enough surface area for a good push from a screwdriver or other solid, thin rod. Most wire-hangers do not have enough rigidity to do this effectively.

7) Once you get most of the USB connector head through the hole and through the first layer of padding/mesh, go into the car and disassemble the plastic passenger-side panel underneath the glove box in the footwell. There are tons of write-ups on this on the net. Take your 10 mm socket, remove the two nuts on the front side of the footwell (one on the left, one on the right), then wiggle the panel downwards and forwards until it comes loose. You will have to unlatch three tabs below the glove box to get it to move. Keep wiggling gently and it will pry loose, then slide it off.

8) Once that panel is off, reach all the way over to the rear-upper-right of the footwell. You're looking for the upper right corner in the back, and a piece of grayish rectangular padding. A flashlight or smartphone LED will help. Behind said padding will be the connector of your USB cable. Grab it and pull it through. You can use needle-nose pliers if needed, GENTLY, to grab the connector and pull it through. Once the connector is all the way through, pull as much of the USB cable's wire through as you can. How much wire you can pull depends on the JB4 install location!

9) Ok, now let's route the cable properly. Looking down at the top side of the panel you just removed (this is the hidden side once the panel is reinstalled), run the USB cable wire on top of it, and route the wire through the left-most hole in that panel. You're routing the cable from the top side (hidden side) of the panel, through the hole, down to the visible side, once installed. Route the entire cable through, then reinstall the panel by reversing the steps above. Once routed and installed, the cable looks like this:


The nice thing about this routing is that it lets you tuck the cable under the carpet and out of sight when you don't want it seen, OR, you will have enough slack and space inside the panel to feed the cable back up into the hole to hide it. If you choose to feed the cable into the panel to hide it, either leave the connector head accessible, or make sure you can retrieve it with your hand from the panel hole. Other folks have found ways to get the cable into the glove box; I did not see how that was possible without disassembling the glove box. The effort-to-reward ratio on that felt low to me, so I am content with the wire under the carpet or fed back into the panel when I don't want to use it. Feel free to reply and mention how you can route it into the glove box, if you wish.

10) Now we're going to put that rubber grommet from step 3 back in. To do this, use wire-cutting pliers or a sharp pair of scissors, and cut into the grommet until you reach the center of the circle. Cut to the length of the RADIUS only, not all the way through to the other side! This next part is tricky, but you can do it! Using your needle-nose pliers, slip the grommet over the now-routed USB cable by sliding it on top of the cable using the cut you just made - and push the grommet all the way up the cable and back against the firewall hole. Now take your flat-head screwdriver (if you need to) and press the grommet back into place! If you can't get this part done, IT'S OK. You do not need to reinstall the grommet for a safe installation.

11) NOW - let's talk about where you should route your JB4 engine-sensor-wire harness cables given this install. If you chose to install the JB4 under the passenger-side cowl, as I did, you can route the cable cleanly underneath the cowl's rubber lip. Check out these two pictures.
Cowl cover still off - note JB4 install location. It is directly in front of the fuse box, that black long rectangle:



Cowl cover on; clean install, JB4 cable under the cowl lip and over towards the engine:


12) You're basically done. Re-snap on the black fuse box lid ensuring you hear a snapping sound from all 4 tabs. Then, as you have seen in several of the pictures above, tuck your JB4 into the cowl area where it's free of the cowl cover clips. Reinstall the cowl cover by reversing the steps in Step 1.

Enjoy!


2017 F23/M240i Convertible (B58) / 6MT / FP Wires / EWG Wires / BMS Air Intake / Stock Exhaust / 93 Octane + 2 gallons E85

Last edited by MasterYous; 04-05-2018 at 10:31 AM.. Reason: Clarity
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codesx codesx is offline
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Default 04-14-2018, 03:44 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by shoes
Wow awesome write-up!

I think I should redo mine like this, but it seems like a PITA.

I smashed the rubber grommet down as far as I could then just routed the wire on top of it and out. The ECU box closed up fine. I then just route the wire out from under the hood and into the passenger window. Ghetto, but it works.
I'm laughing so hard. Woot.
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