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Malekreza11 Malekreza11 is offline
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Default 06-02-2008, 01:04 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by RiXst3r
You can't use 5th gear because the car will be over 155mph (limited electronically) well before 7k rpms

4th gear goes to almost 140 last time i checked
I am aware of the speed limiter, but dyno-ing in a gear that is NOT 1:1 is not the most accurate way to dyno a car. Been doing this for years now and dyno'ing in 4th will skew the HP and TQ values and in some cases be an overshot of the true values the car produces.


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e90AW335I's Avatar
e90AW335I e90AW335I is offline
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Default 06-05-2008, 06:44 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Malekreza11
I am aware of the speed limiter, but dyno-ing in a gear that is NOT 1:1 is not the most accurate way to dyno a car. Been doing this for years now and dyno'ing in 4th will skew the HP and TQ values and in some cases be an overshot of the true values the car produces.
I believe 4th gear is the industry "standard" so take it for what it is worth....
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Default 06-09-2008, 09:23 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Malekreza11
I am aware of the speed limiter, but dyno-ing in a gear that is NOT 1:1 is not the most accurate way to dyno a car. Been doing this for years now and dyno'ing in 4th will skew the HP and TQ values and in some cases be an overshot of the true values the car produces.
Try dyno'ing in 5th... you run will stop before 5k rpms as you hit the speed limiter... not to mention your car would be heatsoaked from the unrealistically long run, you would lose power up top.

I would say thats a waste of a dyno run

yes, 5th is 1:1... but no, it doesnt work on the dyno.

I don't think its worth arguing, mainly because its not possible to do a proper dyno run in 5th in the 335.

Your so technical!!! Sometimes you just gotta go with what works

Its all good
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Default 06-19-2008, 09:52 PM

ran on the dyno last week. Did first run in 5th because it is a true 1:1. And it didn't work no surprise 155mph came real quick. We have to run in 4th..its not perfect but it will measure a complete run. And since everyone is using fourth it keeps everything equal.
By the way my 135 pulled 270hp and 292tq all stock 1300 miles.


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Default Thanks Terry - 09-06-2008, 11:38 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry @ BMS
Hey guys,

I figured it would be a good idea to post up a dyno DIY. This is for purposes of measuring the performance of modifications, not for doing actual tuning.

Ahead of time:

1) The brand of dyno matters. They all read (and work) differently so if you want to compare numbers with others find an actual Dynojet dyno.

2) If possible do a baseline dyno before your modifications so you can measure the power increase. For those of you using an off brand dyno, failure to perform this step will result in numbers that are impossible to analyze. If you can't do a before dyno and you're not using a Dynojet, don't waste your money or time.

3) Make sure the car is fully adapted to your modifications before you go. If you just added race gas, floor the car a few times so it can adapt to the higher octane.

4) Bring along a USB flash drive to take home your runs.

5) The better the fans, the higher the dyno numbers. Make sure the dyno shop you use has adequate fans and ventilation.

6) The N54 always dynos better in colder weather, despite correction factors. Take this in to consideration when picking a day to dyno and when comparing numbers with others. Corrected runs in 50 degree temps will generally result in higher numbers than those in 100 degree temps, all else being equal. So if you want to improve your chances for a dyno record, go on a cold day. Just be prepared for skeptics to complain about your optimal weather.

7) Correction factors do not properly take in to account altitude. If you live in a high altitude area, do not try to compare your corrected numbers to others at sea level. Try to find a dyno close to sea level.


Once you arrive:

1) To connect the RPM pickup use an allen wrench to loosen and lift the plastic engine cover. The tach pickup connects to the wire bundle going to a coil pack. If the dyno operator can't get a signal, just move to another bundle under there until you find one that works.

2) Measure air/fuel ratios from the right tailpipe. This avoids confusion if your factory exhaust flapper is not disabled. As a side note, ignore the dyno operator when he freaks out about how lean your air/fuel ratios are. The N54 is a direct injection motor and typically runs 14.5:1 air/fuel ratios in the midrange stock. Also ignore the power/torque dip around 4000rpm, it is a cam timing event.

3) Disable the traction control system.

3a) For manual transmissions: Do all runs in 4th gear from 2000rpm to 7000rpm.

3b) For automatic transmissions: This is very confusing and likely your dyno operator will not be smart enough to do this, so donít be afraid to operate the car on the dyno yourself.

Shift the car in to 4th gear in sport mode, bring the RPMs up to around 1800-2200, and then floor the car to right before the kick down switch. If you floor it all the way, the car will downshift and screw up your run. If this happens abort the run and try again. The kick down is a small button at the end of the gas pedal travel and you can practice with the car off, or on the way to the dynoshop.

4) When analyzing your runs, move the correction factor to STD, and the smoothing to 5. The early 335i tuning gods decided this was the appropriate factor for the N54 so using the more appropriate SAE factor will likely result in your disappointment.

5) Copy your .DRF run files to your USB drive to take home. You can download Dynojet winpep software online free of change to create graphs, combine runs on to one chart, change correction algorithms, and analyze your runs.
Thanks Terry,
I have been reading my butt off on this site, it rocks!! I plan to take my Jul 08built 335xi sedan auto sport to the dyno soon for baseline numbers. Being in Anchorage Ak I know the numbers are going to be wacked, but 60mph just seems to come very very quick. I have had and driven many performance cars before and this is a different beast. The other night I did a blast to 85mph getting on the main highway here. DTC totally off, brake boosted to 2200RPM and let her rip. No spin on stock RFT's, but it is a stock xi, and hit the triptronic about 6500 or so and man that gave me tunnel vision That had not happened since my first ride on juice some 12yrs ago....Can't wait to get JB3 and the BMS intake. Will try to get dyno numbers and info. after every mod. Oh, by the way, I have a 1/4 track 24 miles from my house Too bad it closes for the season tomorrow Oh well, first runs will be made next year after many planned mods...
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(#31)
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Terry @ BMS's Avatar
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Default 09-13-2008, 01:53 PM

Sounds good! A little more torque and you'll really be hauling.


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It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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Jason @ BMS's Avatar
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Default 12-29-2008, 02:01 AM

Can you dyno an all time 4 wheel drive car?

I heard in some states all time 4 wheel drive cars are smog exempt because the smog machines only have one set of rollers for front wheel drive and rear wheel drive only.


Burger Motorsports
Home of the Worlds fastest N20s, N54s, N55s, N63s, and S63s!

It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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dnyce dnyce is offline
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Default 02-04-2009, 05:43 PM

can a dyno also measure top speed? I have the Dinan/JBX tune and would be interested in seeing how fast the car is with the speed limiter removed.. I'm scheduled for an upcoming dyno day, can't wait! Mine is an auto so I will follow your advice Terry, thanks.
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Terry @ BMS's Avatar
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Default 02-05-2009, 12:32 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by dnyce
can a dyno also measure top speed? I have the Dinan/JBX tune and would be interested in seeing how fast the car is with the speed limiter removed.. I'm scheduled for an upcoming dyno day, can't wait! Mine is an auto so I will follow your advice Terry, thanks.
No, you should go to the salt flats for that.


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Home of the Worlds fastest N20s, N54s, N55s, S55s, N63s, and S63s!

It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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S8ER01Z S8ER01Z is offline
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Default 02-05-2009, 12:21 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Impulse
ran on the dyno last week. Did first run in 5th because it is a true 1:1. And it didn't work no surprise 155mph came real quick. We have to run in 4th..its not perfect but it will measure a complete run. And since everyone is using fourth it keeps everything equal.
By the way my 135 pulled 270hp and 292tq all stock 1300 miles.
What causes it to not work?

Does this mean that the numbers from these cars are inflated because they are not done in a 1:1 gear?
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335iMspizzle 335iMspizzle is offline
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Default 09-29-2010, 10:49 AM

so just floor the pedal to before where kickdown is and hold it there ? never go all the way ?
because thats what they did for me and I've dynoed only 383whp and I was upset.


2014 - M6 f06, FabWorx Ctlss **'s, JB4, FSB meth, Turner Exhaust.
2012 - 650i M sport JB stage 1 (Gone)
2009 - 335i N54 JB4, DINAN CAI, MACHT SHNELL **'S, HPF FMIC, ER CP, SYNAPSE BOV, EISENMANN RACE EXHAUST, BT OIL CC, COOLINGMIST/SNOW PERFORMANCE METH INJECTION - 427 WHP DYNOJET (Gone)

Last edited by 335iMspizzle; 09-29-2010 at 12:25 PM..
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335iMspizzle 335iMspizzle is offline
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Default 09-29-2010, 11:33 AM

anyone ?


2014 - M6 f06, FabWorx Ctlss **'s, JB4, FSB meth, Turner Exhaust.
2012 - 650i M sport JB stage 1 (Gone)
2009 - 335i N54 JB4, DINAN CAI, MACHT SHNELL **'S, HPF FMIC, ER CP, SYNAPSE BOV, EISENMANN RACE EXHAUST, BT OIL CC, COOLINGMIST/SNOW PERFORMANCE METH INJECTION - 427 WHP DYNOJET (Gone)

Last edited by 335iMspizzle; 09-29-2010 at 12:26 PM..
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alpinedevil335 alpinedevil335 is offline
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Default 09-29-2010, 12:37 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by 335iMspizzle
so just floor the pedal to before where kickdown is and hold it there ? never go all the way ?
because thats what they did for me and I've dynoed only 383whp and I was upset.
Never go PAST the kick down. if you do the trans will downshift.
You need to keep the trans in 4th. going past the kickdown will defeat the purpose.
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335iMspizzle 335iMspizzle is offline
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Default 09-29-2010, 12:52 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by alpinedevil335
Never go PAST the kick down. if you do the trans will downshift.
You need to keep the trans in 4th. going past the kickdown will defeat the purpose.
Thanks, what would I do with out this forum =]


2014 - M6 f06, FabWorx Ctlss **'s, JB4, FSB meth, Turner Exhaust.
2012 - 650i M sport JB stage 1 (Gone)
2009 - 335i N54 JB4, DINAN CAI, MACHT SHNELL **'S, HPF FMIC, ER CP, SYNAPSE BOV, EISENMANN RACE EXHAUST, BT OIL CC, COOLINGMIST/SNOW PERFORMANCE METH INJECTION - 427 WHP DYNOJET (Gone)
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themyst themyst is offline
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Default 09-29-2010, 03:40 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by 335iMspizzle
so just floor the pedal to before where kickdown is and hold it there ? never go all the way ?
because thats what they did for me and I've dynoed only 383whp and I was upset.
What was your baseline with bolt-ons? What dyno? 4th gear? What Map/PSI?

I dynoed 414whp at 17.5 psi (maybe somewhere in between Map 9 and 10) and 424whp at 18.5 psi (Map 11-12?) my baseline on stock boost + bolt-ons was 295whp.

No baseline, we have no idea how much power you are making over stock tune. Keep in mind I have a manual, so my numbers will probably be a tick higher than the comparable auto and I have a FMIC.


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335iMspizzle 335iMspizzle is offline
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Default 09-29-2010, 06:33 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by themyst
What was your baseline with bolt-ons? What dyno? 4th gear? What Map/PSI?

I dynoed 414whp at 17.5 psi (maybe somewhere in between Map 9 and 10) and 424whp at 18.5 psi (Map 11-12?) my baseline on stock boost + bolt-ons was 295whp.

No baseline, we have no idea how much power you are making over stock tune. Keep in mind I have a manual, so my numbers will probably be a tick higher than the comparable auto and I have a FMIC.
Bro I honestly think because I've set min meth flow to 7 it bogged , because after when I was driving it felt realy dumb , so I swiched it to 8.5 and it was an all new car , and he floored it so it always downshifted , I also need to check my timing , what do you mean between map 9 and 10 ??? 11-12 don't you stay in one map ? I'm confused ? =\ I was in map 8 because I was on pump gas and I thought that's the highest I can go ? should I try something else ?


2014 - M6 f06, FabWorx Ctlss **'s, JB4, FSB meth, Turner Exhaust.
2012 - 650i M sport JB stage 1 (Gone)
2009 - 335i N54 JB4, DINAN CAI, MACHT SHNELL **'S, HPF FMIC, ER CP, SYNAPSE BOV, EISENMANN RACE EXHAUST, BT OIL CC, COOLINGMIST/SNOW PERFORMANCE METH INJECTION - 427 WHP DYNOJET (Gone)
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themyst themyst is offline
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Default 09-29-2010, 06:57 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by 335iMspizzle
Bro I honestly think because I've set min meth flow to 7 it bogged , because after when I was driving it felt realy dumb , so I swiched it to 8.5 and it was an all new car , and he floored it so it always downshifted , I also need to check my timing , what do you mean between map 9 and 10 ??? 11-12 don't you stay in one map ? I'm confused ? =\ I was in map 8 because I was on pump gas and I thought that's the highest I can go ? should I try something else ?
i don't have a jb3. I go by boost levels, so I was only estimating what kind of JB3 map it'd be equivalent to.


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(#43)
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xquizitdjx xquizitdjx is offline
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Default 09-29-2010, 09:16 PM

Great info Terry. Thanks for this post.
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335iMspizzle 335iMspizzle is offline
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Default 09-29-2010, 10:40 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by themyst
i don't have a jb3. I go by boost levels, so I was only estimating what kind of JB3 map it'd be equivalent to.
0o0o0o0o I forgot you got the other tune , we need to meet up have some runs sometime your in ny nj right ?


2014 - M6 f06, FabWorx Ctlss **'s, JB4, FSB meth, Turner Exhaust.
2012 - 650i M sport JB stage 1 (Gone)
2009 - 335i N54 JB4, DINAN CAI, MACHT SHNELL **'S, HPF FMIC, ER CP, SYNAPSE BOV, EISENMANN RACE EXHAUST, BT OIL CC, COOLINGMIST/SNOW PERFORMANCE METH INJECTION - 427 WHP DYNOJET (Gone)
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themyst themyst is offline
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Default 09-29-2010, 11:04 PM

yeah queens, anytime


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a7med606 a7med606 is offline
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Default 12-31-2011, 07:54 PM

i have the 7 speed tranny
which gear shall i run ?
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Terry @ BMS's Avatar
Terry @ BMS Terry @ BMS is offline
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Default 05-29-2012, 05:13 PM

Bump for the noobs.


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It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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mykal335xi mykal335xi is offline
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Default 05-29-2012, 08:57 PM

Make sure to double check the dyno guys when they hook up the rear straps, my dyno guy had some idiot kid do it and bent my trailing arms in half. Found out on the freeway, wasn't very pleasant and cost $450 to fix.


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Default 07-25-2012, 07:33 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by 335fll
If the dyno operator wont let you drive the car then this could be a good idea.


Has anyone else done this and are the results good - I am getting ready to dyno my FBO n55 and I want to eliminate the kickdown from my runs to maximize my results. This looks like a no-brainer and I think a quick velcro attachment would be perfect for a good 4th gear run (automatic trans)
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mithiral67 mithiral67 is offline
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Default 12-22-2012, 02:50 PM

Whats the best way to cool the engine betwen pulls, all the way off, or with the engine idling to keep coolants and fresh air moving through the car?
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