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CaptainMorgan535i CaptainMorgan535i is offline
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Default E60 535i ******* ********* questions about install - 01-15-2018, 08:40 PM

Can someone with experience installing ********* on a 535i (e60 2010 n54 model), shed some light on what parts need to be removed in order to gain access to the factory cats? Thank you!
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LessIsMore LessIsMore is offline
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Default 01-16-2018, 09:18 AM

I can tell you the basic elements are the same as the 3-series install - however you will also need to drop the subframe, and ARS swaybar and lines (if equipped), to get them out. It's overall just a tighter job than a 1- or 3-series.


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jtrejo jtrejo is offline
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Default 01-16-2018, 10:53 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by LessIsMore
I can tell you the basic elements are the same as the 3-series install - however you will also need to drop the subframe, and ARS swaybar and lines (if equipped), to get them out. It's overall just a tighter job than a 1- or 3-series.
dropping subframe or sway bars is not necessary. its a bitch but can be done. Dr Euro installed them on his driveway on my 5er. i tried using a lift and gave up because it was so tight.


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Default 01-16-2018, 10:58 AM

I installed one of the very first sets of VRSF E60 *** on my 08 535i way back when in my own garage. Assuming you are RWD, the subframe does not need to come down, but I'd highly suggest taking out the passenger side wheel well cover to gain more access. Took me about 8 hours from start to finish taking my time and getting into tight clearances.

Installing *** on my E82 was much much easier.


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Kmastl Kmastl is offline
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Default 01-16-2018, 11:26 AM

I installed VSRF d0wnplpes on my E60 rwd without dropping my subframe. You will have to drop the rest of the exhaust first. It's almost seemed impossible at first but it is doable. It's far easier removing the old ones than installing the new ones.
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CaptainMorgan535i CaptainMorgan535i is offline
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Default 01-16-2018, 02:59 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by LessIsMore
I can tell you the basic elements are the same as the 3-series install - however you will also need to drop the subframe, and ARS swaybar and lines (if equipped), to get them out. It's overall just a tighter job than a 1- or 3-series.
I watched the AR' install video on the 335i and was wondering if we had a steering rack that was in the way like with that chassis. I'm guessing dropping the subframe would help make things easier, but I'm not experienced enough to attempt that. Thank you for the reply.


Quote:
Originally Posted by jtrejo
dropping subframe or sway bars is not necessary. its a bitch but can be done. Dr Euro installed them on his driveway on my 5er. i tried using a lift and gave up because it was so tight.
I briefly got under the car and looked at the position of them, I can tell its a really tight area to work in. I'll be doing the work on jack stands and although I'm nervous, I really need to save the money on labor to use for suspension parts! Thanks for the info!

Quote:
Originally Posted by chadillac2000
I installed one of the very first sets of VRSF E60 *** on my 08 535i way back when in my own garage. Assuming you are RWD, the subframe does not need to come down, but I'd highly suggest taking out the passenger side wheel well cover to gain more access. Took me about 8 hours from start to finish taking my time and getting into tight clearances.

Installing *** on my E82 was much much easier.
I've watched your exhaust video and have read your thread on your 535i a lot man! Thank you!

I did find a Pelicanparts DIY on catalytic converter removal and it mentions removing the inner wheel liner. It doesn't show a picture of what the area looks like once it's removed, so I was wondering if that allows for more access to the c-clips that mate the turbo's to the *****. Is there any kind of steering rack that needs to be unbolted to move out of the way? I have the RWD version.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kmastl
I installed VSRF d0wnplpes on my E60 rwd without dropping my subframe. You will have to drop the rest of the exhaust first. It's almost seemed impossible at first but it is doable. It's far easier removing the old ones than installing the new ones.
Dang, I thought that it would be the other way around, hard to get the factory ones out, and easy to get the ******* back in. How far back are you talking about with removing the exhaust? When I briefly looked under the car, it looks like theres a second set of cats further down as well as a resonator if I were to guess. Thank you for replying as well man.
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Kmastl Kmastl is offline
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Default 01-16-2018, 03:08 PM

Disconnect exhaust at flange where "section 1" meets the **'s. Then disconnect exhaust flapper vacuum line, 3? hangers and remove as one unit. Lookup the exhaust on realoem if you need a visual. I think you will probably need a 13mm swivel socket to get to the front vband bolt. You may not be able to get to it with a swivel and a socket. No need to touch the steering rack.
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Tuppidsay Tuppidsay is offline
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Default 01-16-2018, 04:36 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kmastl
Disconnect exhaust at flange where "section 1" meets the **'s. Then disconnect exhaust flapper vacuum line, 3? hangers and remove as one unit. Lookup the exhaust on realoem if you need a visual. I think you will probably need a 13mm swivel socket to get to the front vband bolt. You may not be able to get to it with a swivel and a socket. No need to touch the steering rack.
No reason to pull the entire exhaust. Just the bracket at the back of the trans so the exhaust will move on the rubber mounts. But yeah 13mm Swivel socket 1/4inch drive and a long extension to get the v-band bolts and your good to go. It's a MF'er but not horrible. Definitely don't need to touch the sway or sub-frame.


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RCB RCB is offline
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Default 01-18-2018, 07:25 AM

I just got mine in last night within an hour in my E61 on the tail end of my turbo upgrade.
I already had them out so that hour was just the reinstallation.

Pull the covers off the bottom and wheel well axel cover, remove heat shield, drop the exhaust bracket at the trans, unplug the sensors, take the 4 rear subframe bolts out and loosen the front 2 bolts. That should be enough to wiggle those suckers out.

I also have ** built here in my shop using the stock bellmouths so fittment is no issue unlike all of the other E60x ***** out there that look like they were attacked by a shark.


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CaptainMorgan535i CaptainMorgan535i is offline
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Default 02-08-2018, 06:30 PM

I just ordered the VRSF *********. I got a quote from a local forum member to install them for $250. I'd like to still attempt to do it myself though, if I can ask questions on here if I get stuck.
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socaln54 socaln54 is offline
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Default 02-08-2018, 11:06 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainMorgan535i
I just ordered the VRSF *********. I got a quote from a local forum member to install them for $250. I'd like to still attempt to do it myself though, if I can ask questions on here if I get stuck.
where are you located?
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CaptainMorgan535i CaptainMorgan535i is offline
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Default 02-08-2018, 11:17 PM

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Originally Posted by socaln54
where are you located?
College Station, Texas. I drive to Houston or Austin to get work done on my cars usually.
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Island Road Island Road is offline
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Default 02-09-2018, 01:26 PM

Even with XI you don't need to drop the subframe but its a huge PIA.

How is everybody liking the VRSF Cascading P!pes? I have installed a set of AR Cascading P!pes and the build quality is amazing. With the VRSF P!pes i don't like the transition to 2.5in but they are all over Alibaba for under $200 a set so really cant beat that. I def am not going to buy a set of new AR P!pes but if i find one used that might be a different story. If the bends are not horrible I would jump on a set of VRSF ones.
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Tuppidsay Tuppidsay is offline
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Default 02-10-2018, 03:40 AM

I didn't care for vrsf's solution to the tight bend on the rear pipe. Well hidden in the pictures, atleast back when I bought them for my non Xi. But they seem to work well and fit well enough. Basically there's a flat plate welded in the outside of the bend.


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CaptainMorgan535i CaptainMorgan535i is offline
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Default 02-12-2018, 09:32 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tuppidsay
I didn't care for vrsf's solution to the tight bend on the rear pipe. Well hidden in the pictures, atleast back when I bought them for my non Xi. But they seem to work well and fit well enough. Basically there's a flat plate welded in the outside of the bend.
Do you mean like in this picture below?


I thought that was the xi AWD version. I'll find out on Thursday what the welds look like. I plan on pulling the belly pan and wheel arch cover off on Friday, to see if I can get to the bolts on Saturday and do the job completely.
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Tuppidsay Tuppidsay is offline
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Default 02-13-2018, 07:53 AM

Yes. My car is rwd


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chadillac2000 chadillac2000 is offline
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Default 02-13-2018, 08:28 AM

Those ***** pictured above are the ones I used on my 535i, non-AWD. Same welded plate and everything. Apparently VRSF knocked off the design from Dr. Euro. My VRSF ***** worked great and fit perfectly.







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Island Road Island Road is offline
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Default 02-13-2018, 11:28 AM

Thanks for the pictures guys, this is the angle they don't show when advertising. Looks as though they are directly Dr. Euro what chadillac2000 said, and if your have the pate its goings to fit AWD.

As for AR Pipe they went though a few different revisions two with a plate style and one looks as though they Pipe had been bent.

When I bought some AR Pipe-s for my dads car in 2013 they had a flat plate style that was very close tolerances to the other Pipe-s, although in 2013 I also saw a design with that dented in, shown below my guess is that the dented in version was the first attempt, then the flat plate version, and now it seems they have been redesigned again to include a curved plate design that looks rather nice.

Dented Design - Possible first revision - Both Pipe-s seem to be dented.





Latest revision with curved plate.





Possible 2nd revision but cut in half to remove 2.5 reducer and add Vband Clamps to mate with 3.5" pipe. (I don't have any uninstalled pictures at the moment)

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CaptainMorgan535i CaptainMorgan535i is offline
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Default Just got them in the mail, have an 02 sensor question though - 02-15-2018, 07:29 PM









I got these today from extreme powerhouse. Definitely happy with their customer service in getting me a tracking number quickly.

Will I be able to take off the oxygen sensors with the ***** still in the car? I looked at renting an 02 sensor tool so I don't have to find someone to cut a 22mm wrench in half for me!
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socaln54 socaln54 is offline
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Default 02-15-2018, 09:23 PM

I will be doing inlets soon on my 535i non RWD and may do a video, might have to remove the stock ********* to get to the rear inlet, stay tune it might help you with this install for now if you need to remove your bumper I did a quick DIY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3UfQG2ekwhE&t=1s
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CaptainMorgan535i CaptainMorgan535i is offline
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Default 02-16-2018, 01:57 PM



I got this far and then found I couldn't reach some of the heat shield bolts, the exhaust also has an e socket required bolt that I don't have a socket for. It's more difficult then I thought it was going to be.
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chadillac2000 chadillac2000 is offline
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Default 02-16-2018, 02:42 PM

Working on any N54 requires lots of extensions, swivel sockets, and e sockets. The 535i exhaust swap also takes patience. Step away, get the tools you need, and give it another go. Did you remove the passenger side wheel splash guard?


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CaptainMorgan535i CaptainMorgan535i is offline
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Default 02-16-2018, 06:18 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by chadillac2000
Working on any N54 requires lots of extensions, swivel sockets, and e sockets. The 535i exhaust swap also takes patience. Step away, get the tools you need, and give it another go. Did you remove the passenger side wheel splash guard?
I didn't. When I realized I didn't know how I was going to get the 02 sensors off and unplugged; I started talking myself out of going any further. I'm going to take it to a forum mechanic this Sunday and get them installed. I appreciate all of the help and advice! I didn't want to screw it up since the mechanic is an hour and a half away if I couldn't get the ***** back on.
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rkreimer10 rkreimer10 is online now
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Default 02-18-2018, 04:08 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainMorgan535i
I didn't. When I realized I didn't know how I was going to get the 02 sensors off and unplugged; I started talking myself out of going any further. I'm going to take it to a forum mechanic this Sunday and get them installed. I appreciate all of the help and advice! I didn't want to screw it up since the mechanic is an hour and a half away if I couldn't get the ***** back on.
The only o2 sensor you need to remove is the front turbo ********'s rear 02 sensor. This Is a 22mm wrench. Removing that 1 o2 sensor will allow enough clearance to twist both *********. The other 3 o2 sensor just get unplugged on the harness end and removed with the *****.

You must also bend the bracket that the ********* bolt to. This bracket also bolts to the tranny and should be removed after the ***** are out and replace the tranny bolts.

Once all under plastics and wheel well plastics are removed you can find easy access to the 13mm v-band bolts via extensions and wobble sockets. Remove the front ******** first then remove the rear. Install in reverse order.
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CaptainMorgan535i CaptainMorgan535i is offline
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Default 02-18-2018, 04:34 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by rkreimer10
The only o2 sensor you need to remove is the front turbo ********'s rear 02 sensor. This Is a 22mm wrench. Removing that 1 o2 sensor will allow enough clearance to twist both *********. The other 3 o2 sensor just get unplugged on the harness end and removed with the *****.

You must also bend the bracket that the ********* bolt to. This bracket also bolts to the tranny and should be removed after the ***** are out and replace the tranny bolts.

Once all under plastics and wheel well plastics are removed you can find easy access to the 13mm v-band bolts via extensions and wobble sockets. Remove the front ******** first then remove the rear. Install in reverse order.
The mechanic I was going to take it to today had something come up, so I may attempt the install myself again. Are you talking about the bracket in this photo below?


I know this is a really novice question, but do I need to unclip the o2 sensor connectors with a screw driver or anything? The most I've accomplished on the N54 is changing spark plugs, and the PCV valve.
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