N54Tech.com - Your Source for International Turbo BMW Racing Discussion
(#176)
Old
robc1976's Avatar
robc1976 robc1976 is offline
Demigod
 
Posts: 1,558
Join Date: Mar 2012
Car: 2007 335i
Default 10-05-2015, 06:54 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by rackley
TLDR: Get e90man's tools and use the walnut method. B12 = dangerous and doesn't work as good. There is a very good reason the "real" shops don't use B12 method.

I just did this last weekend using the B12 Chemtool method and I would NOT recommend it.

If/when I have to do this again I'll definitely be going with e90man's tools and the walnut method (wish I had seen them at the top of this thread!!).

Key points:

1) Fumes. You NEED a REAL 3M respirator, and my garage door was open the whole time. The fumes are very strong, especially when you vacuum it out with a wet/dry vac. The vacuum generated causes it to almost instantly evaporate into a gas form when you suck it up.

2) Fumes - Explosiveness and shopvac electric motor, plus water heater pilot light in garage, plus garage door opener electric motor, plus plus plus...Enough said.

3) It melts your shopvac. Yes, my mini shopvac tools were all chemically melted before I finished and I was holding them together with duct tape and finger pressure.

4) I had to use dental picks (aka gun cleaning tools) to get the hard carbon stuff off, especially around the rims of the valves. The B12 just didn't do it - this was with multiple soak/clean cycles.
totally disagree, I did 30 valve jobs last year alone using gumout, shop vac, gun cleaning kit and compressor...compressor isa must. They came out spotless. I also did around 10 valve covers and all of them had shells I the pcv ports when cover was opened up. Unless you have your intake ports tapped with set screws preventing Any shells from getting in valve cover I would not used walnut shells.


JB4 G5, WEDGE flash, 455 LPFP, HFS-4 meth kit, BMS OCC, VM 6466 ST, RB valve, BMS DCI, 3" AR ***, Custom OC W/ SS lines, ER FMIC, ER CP W/HKS BOV, M3 control arms, M3 guide rods, M3 upper links, M3 front & rear sway-bars, HPA rear toe arms, Wavetrac LSD, HPF Gen 2 exhaust DEFIV kit, KW clubsort, Delrin solid subfrane bushings, stoptech rotors, Rogue Tranny Mounts, 1M bumper, M3 CF hood, MORR VS8.2 rims 245/295
Reply With Quote
(#177)
Old
dawhiz's Avatar
dawhiz dawhiz is offline
Junior Member
 
Posts: 282
Join Date: Mar 2015
Car: 09 335xi
Default 10-06-2015, 04:08 AM

The harbor freight $29 setup sucks balls... instead get the $60 one: http://www.harborfreight.com/20-lb-p...ter-68994.html

You will not be disappointed. The $29 one is hit or miss on when it works since it's vacuum only. The blaster gets the results you need soooo much quicker. Completely gets rid of stuff that seemed hard with the $29 one.

Best of all, it comes with everything needed to use the blasting wand.

I'll update with a pic later but on the bmw wand you'll want to remove the small gasket that holds the nut on & the nut as well. From there you want to take the gasket that comes with the kit and cut off the top. Using the flat portion, make the hole slightly bigger using a pair of scissors spinning on the blade. Put that on the end of the wand. Place the small gasket back top down on the wand where you got it pre-nut. Put the nut that comes in the kit over the wand and then thread it into your assembled spray setup.

It's so much better & quicker. Awesome one hand control operation with tons of power.
Reply With Quote
(#178)
Old
wratran wratran is offline
New Member
 
Posts: 23
Join Date: Aug 2015
Car: 535i
Default Dallas valve cleaning - 10-07-2015, 05:05 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by bstone1989
Any people in the Dallas area that can do this??
2nd that... Need walnut blast valve clean in Dallas....anyone


2010 535i msport
JB4 G5 31.8 firmware
MHS JB4 back end pump gas flash
BMS DCI
VRSF Charge pipe
TIAL BOV
Auto trans
93 octane
Reply With Quote
(#179)
Old
Tonethejackal Tonethejackal is offline
New Member
 
Posts: 16
Join Date: Aug 2015
Car: 2008 335i JB4
Default 10-17-2015, 08:27 AM

do not recommended using a wet dry vac to suck out flammable liquids. I believe carb cleaner is flammable. sparks from the vac motor brushes could ignite the cleaner and cause an explosion
Reply With Quote
(#180)
Old
BeastMode335i's Avatar
BeastMode335i BeastMode335i is offline
Junior Member
 
Posts: 475
Join Date: Dec 2014
Car: 08 E92 335i
Default 10-24-2015, 03:19 PM

Anyone do the walnut blast without the BMW vacuum adapter and/or wand..???
Reply With Quote
(#181)
Old
darkrider darkrider is offline
Junior Member
 
Posts: 42
Join Date: Aug 2013
Car: 2010 535i
Default 58K E60 N54 Notes on using the Scrub Method - 02-08-2016, 08:47 AM

After changing out coils and plugs, and 2 injectors, I was still have some rough idling, so I decided to give the intakes a good cleaning to see if it would help. The results so far are very good, with improved throttle response and the idle is like butter! Anyone on the fence with over 50K miles, either pay someone to do it, or take it on as a weekend diy project.

Disassembly was relatively straight forward. I watched a youtube video since the original pic links here are broken. The only problems I encountered were with the electrical connector from the dreaded box to the throttle body and the push pin for the electrical on the bottom rear of the manifold. I found the electrical and the box very easy once you disconnect the throttle body. Four bolts and it comes right off, giving easy access to both the box and the connector. It also makes for easy cleaning of both the throttle body and the manifold itself. The TB wasn't too bad, but the manifold had a lot of deposits! Take the time to clean it...

The E60 intake manifold was a PITA to remove... It took me a good 15 mins to get it at just the right angle even with everything pushed out of the way, because it makes contact with the rear inlet assembly prior to clearing the stud.

Once off, I did a lot of trial and error to get my process down, but I can tell you what worked best for me. I used Marvel Mystery Oil and a toothbrush to give the entire inside and both valves a good liberal coating. I let it sit for about 10 mins. Then I sprayed both valves and and the chamber with WD40 of all things. It makes everything inside slick as snot with the MMO and WD. I then proceeded to take a brass wire brush... .40 cal was about perfect for sizing and hooked it up to my dremel w/ the long reach bendy adapter. This combo worked perfectly for this application. Spinning at medium speed, I could literally see the heavy deposits clump together like sludge and stick to the wire brush. I had to take it out every minute or so to clean it. Once I got the majority off, I used blue shop towels and my fingers to wipe out the majority of remaining. At this point, the valves are the only thing that still requires attention. I sprayed them good with the carb cleaner and this time let it pool on each valve and then used a smaller bendy wire brush. This takes a bit of time going back and forth with a flashlight, because you can't really see all that well. Afterwards, I wiped it down again and sucked out the residual with shop vac with a normal bendy straw attached to the smallest wand with duct tape. Literally, one application of carb cleaner was all I needed using this method, and I only went through 2 cans. It was also a pretty clean process, as most of the carbon sludged up prior to using the carb cleaner and had already been removed. The results were every bit as good as what I've seen posted for scrubbing, but not quite as good as walnut blasting. Using this method, I could probably do all 6 in 2 to 2 1/2 hours.

Note, I would not recommend doing multiple cylinders at the same time. Only one appears to be in the fully closed position at a time! Others are closed, but are not as high up in the stroke. I used a short 12g wire hooked to an alligator clip to the starter spade like I saw in the video. All you do is tap the positive lead to the starter with the other end, and you've got a perfect seal in about 30 secs. I didn't want to take any chances of that crap leaking down into the cylinder.
Reply With Quote
(#182)
Old
xx8055NIACxx xx8055NIACxx is offline
Junior Member
 
Posts: 73
Join Date: Oct 2012
Car: 08 535i
Default 02-25-2016, 02:54 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by darkrider
After changing out coils and plugs, and 2 injectors, I was still have some rough idling, so I decided to give the intakes a good cleaning to see if it would help. The results so far are very good, with improved throttle response and the idle is like butter! Anyone on the fence with over 50K miles, either pay someone to do it, or take it on as a weekend diy project.

Disassembly was relatively straight forward. I watched a youtube video since the original pic links here are broken. The only problems I encountered were with the electrical connector from the dreaded box to the throttle body and the push pin for the electrical on the bottom rear of the manifold. I found the electrical and the box very easy once you disconnect the throttle body. Four bolts and it comes right off, giving easy access to both the box and the connector. It also makes for easy cleaning of both the throttle body and the manifold itself. The TB wasn't too bad, but the manifold had a lot of deposits! Take the time to clean it...

The E60 intake manifold was a PITA to remove... It took me a good 15 mins to get it at just the right angle even with everything pushed out of the way, because it makes contact with the rear inlet assembly prior to clearing the stud.

Once off, I did a lot of trial and error to get my process down, but I can tell you what worked best for me. I used Marvel Mystery Oil and a toothbrush to give the entire inside and both valves a good liberal coating. I let it sit for about 10 mins. Then I sprayed both valves and and the chamber with WD40 of all things. It makes everything inside slick as snot with the MMO and WD. I then proceeded to take a brass wire brush... .40 cal was about perfect for sizing and hooked it up to my dremel w/ the long reach bendy adapter. This combo worked perfectly for this application. Spinning at medium speed, I could literally see the heavy deposits clump together like sludge and stick to the wire brush. I had to take it out every minute or so to clean it. Once I got the majority off, I used blue shop towels and my fingers to wipe out the majority of remaining. At this point, the valves are the only thing that still requires attention. I sprayed them good with the carb cleaner and this time let it pool on each valve and then used a smaller bendy wire brush. This takes a bit of time going back and forth with a flashlight, because you can't really see all that well. Afterwards, I wiped it down again and sucked out the residual with shop vac with a normal bendy straw attached to the smallest wand with duct tape. Literally, one application of carb cleaner was all I needed using this method, and I only went through 2 cans. It was also a pretty clean process, as most of the carbon sludged up prior to using the carb cleaner and had already been removed. The results were every bit as good as what I've seen posted for scrubbing, but not quite as good as walnut blasting. Using this method, I could probably do all 6 in 2 to 2 1/2 hours.

Note, I would not recommend doing multiple cylinders at the same time. Only one appears to be in the fully closed position at a time! Others are closed, but are not as high up in the stroke. I used a short 12g wire hooked to an alligator clip to the starter spade like I saw in the video. All you do is tap the positive lead to the starter with the other end, and you've got a perfect seal in about 30 secs. I didn't want to take any chances of that crap leaking down into the cylinder.
Thanks brother for this, my 535i needs this, just did a plug change not too long ago, fuel injectors and valve cover gasket few months ago.
But that idle man, I can feel the car is not running how it should be, like its being suffocated, idle sometimes stutters and I am at 80k miles now.

I know its time to do this.

I will be coming here to read this and do it. Will let you know how it goes

Reply With Quote
(#183)
Old
NGEE NGEE is offline
New Member
 
Posts: 1
Join Date: Sep 2016
Car: 2007 E90
Default 09-18-2016, 08:44 AM

Reviving thread with a question. I've got an Auto Trans, car in Park. 22mm socket with long-handle ratchet on the crank. I'm cranking clockwise and only one cyl at a time seems to be fully closed. Is this correct? The crank turns easily enough, but I'm nervous about it - don't want to break anything.
Reply With Quote
(#184)
Old
Hatterasman Hatterasman is offline
New Member
 
Posts: 4
Join Date: Sep 2016
Car: 2008 BMW 535Xi Wagon
Default E61 Notes - 05-18-2017, 11:49 AM

Great write up. Very Helpful. Thanks.

A couple of notes/comments after doing my 2008 E61 535i.

Used E6 socket (reverse torx) to remove manifold studs to allow manifold to clear rear charge pipe.

Prying up on plastic tabs of "evil box" with a very small flat blade screwdriver allowed it to slide right off locking rails.

Started yesterday using the chem clean method. Makes a "muddy" mess. Difficult to clean and dry out. Had a gun cleaning brush disintegrate using a dremel (on lowest speed). Lots of little wires to clean up. Really did not make much progress.

Finished this morning walnut blasting with fine walnut shells using BMW vacuum adapter and wand. Took 30 to 60 seconds to perfectly clean a cylinder.

Recovered walnut shells from vacuum and reused twice.

Notes on turning over engine with AT.
Tried a remote start switch on starter. Starter spun, but bendix did not engage flywheel.

Best tip I found online (Can't find it again to give credit to OP): T50 Torx on 3/8" drive ratchet in alternator pulley (remove plastic cap on pulley) allows motor to be turned (counter-clockwise). This works great as you can watch the valves while you turn the motor.

Engine drive pulley accessible from under the car without fan removal. (22 mm socket) I encountered resistance (even with the plugs out) that was causing the alternator pulley to slip. Turning drive pulley got me past that.


2008 E61 535Xi, Black Sapphire, Natural Brown, Bamboo Wood, Sport, Premium, XPEL Clear Bra, JB4, OCC, AR **, KW V3, M5 Rear Sway, M5 Brakes, Forgestar F14's 19x8.5 +35, 19x9.5 +35 | 245-40/275-35 Pilot Sport A/S 3
2008 E92 335i Coupe, 6MT, Black Sapphire, Black, Aluminum Trim, Sport Pkg, Style 189, Dinan Tune, Godspeed FMIC, Beltronics StiR
1999 E46 328i, 5MT, Prem., H & R Race Springs, Bilstein B6, 17" Style 68M Msport, 330i Brakes, Short Shifter, Custom Bi-Xenons, Adj. Rear Control Arms
Reply With Quote
(#185)
Old
200kN54 200kN54 is offline
New Member
 
Posts: 2
Join Date: Mar 2017
Car: 2007 335xi
Default 07-01-2017, 10:30 AM

None of the photos are loading not sure why. Anyways, getting ready to do this myself only difference is i have 206k miles on her, and shes never been cleaned. Cannot wait to see these valves
Reply With Quote
(#186)
Old
135ilife420 135ilife420 is offline
New Member
 
Posts: 1
Join Date: Jul 2017
Car: 2009 BMW 135i
Default 07-13-2017, 09:18 AM

For some reason I can not see the photos 🤔
Reply With Quote
(#187)
Old
Whyu1nunno Whyu1nunno is offline
New Member
 
Posts: 2
Join Date: May 2016
Car: 2009 BMW 335i xDrive
Default 07-14-2017, 07:30 AM

does anyone know if there is a PDF with pictures somewhere out there?
Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump




vBulletin Skin developed by: vBStyles.com
Copyright 2007 - 2017, N54tech.com