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Excelent Excelent is offline
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Default 09-04-2017, 02:02 PM

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Originally Posted by m5james
I asked earlier...I don't know what downshifting issue you're referring to and you didn't reply.
Here is it again

I have small probleems with JB4. Few times its show me "reduce power".
After few minutes its gone. No fault codes. This problem happen overtime
(engine os cold) when you floor it from higher gear to lower gear and its dangerous. If you're just bypassing another car and then its happen. You cant do anything than braking and retreating to your own lane back because you have no power, but if the another car brakes too, there will be some serious problems.

Its help when you turn of the engine and start it again and you floor it twice and then its work great again.
it seems that every time there is a need for a new adaptation.
I must do it every day.
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Default 09-04-2017, 02:42 PM

OK, so you're having major power loss vs just reduced power.

I've had reduced power to where it's still totally driveable but the boost comes slowly, easily reset via turning the engine off and back on...lately I've been getting that and an 30FF code.

I've had reduced power only a few times to the point where the car is undriveable when I've tried pushing over 21psi of boost. It completely falls on it's face, I get the reduced power warning and then I have ZERO boost and the throttle becomes almost useless. Too much gas pedal and the thing shudders, resetting the codes doesn't help and it lasts for a few hours...I'm guessing the computer needs to goto sleep to really reset it. I've gotten an 2F24 code when this happened, which is why I asked about if there's an option to swap to a different boost pressure sensor since that code references an overboost situation.

What's your total mods list and how much boost are you running?


'10 BMW X5///M - Alpine White on Sakhir Orange - HCP Stage 2/JB4, NGK 97506 @ .20, SS intake w/ BMC filters, gutted cats, muffler delete & Vibrant 1794's, AC Forged 312 22's, H&R 2"
'08 BMW 535xiT - BMS DCI, RB/Mishimoto
'98 BMW 740iL - ///E39 M5 6spd swap, fully built engine (sleeved, P&P, cams), 3.46 LSD, H&R Stage 2/Bilstein HD, Magnaflow 14816's
'97 BMW 328ci - ///E36 M3 clutch, L/W flywheel, 3.23LSD, Z4///M staggered 18's

Last edited by m5james; 09-04-2017 at 06:08 PM..
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Excelent Excelent is offline
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Default 09-05-2017, 12:32 PM

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Originally Posted by m5james
OK, so you're having major power loss vs just reduced power.

I've had reduced power to where it's still totally driveable but the boost comes slowly, easily reset via turning the engine off and back on...lately I've been getting that and an 30FF code.

I've had reduced power only a few times to the point where the car is undriveable when I've tried pushing over 21psi of boost. It completely falls on it's face, I get the reduced power warning and then I have ZERO boost and the throttle becomes almost useless. Too much gas pedal and the thing shudders, resetting the codes doesn't help and it lasts for a few hours...I'm guessing the computer needs to goto sleep to really reset it. I've gotten an 2F24 code when this happened, which is why I asked about if there's an option to swap to a different boost pressure sensor since that code references an overboost situation.

What's your total mods list and how much boost are you running?
Yes that is what happens to me to. The AFR stops at 20 when reduce power lights up.
My opinion is also that the engine run to lean and therefore its happen.
I don't like this situation, because Terry don't help us at al. Next time if and when I bought a new car. For example M5 4WD I cant buy any JB4 again. Im gone go another route for sure.
You can't and should not leave the customers on their own after you bought something. This is the first time in my life when somebody behavior like this.

Yes I have also thought that if we can change the Tmaps sensor maybe its help.
I'm gone do the hard reset with the ECU and see if it help.

My mods is.
- ESS stage II
- M5 F10 headers
- Down ***** with race cats
- JB4+BMC
- Map 3 E30 around 18 psi. 708 hp. Bosch 4WD dyno. JB4 gave 72 extra hp.

Last edited by Excelent; 09-05-2017 at 01:04 PM..
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m5james m5james is offline
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Default 09-05-2017, 05:06 PM

I haven't watched my AFR, but I should check that on old logs. I guess I assumed it'd goto into map 4 on it's own if the AFR went that lean.

I agree it sucks that Terry dropped the platform but it is what it is. He's still supporting the S63TU so your M5 reference isn't relevant. The S63 was only a three year run in two vehicles, so we're very limited. I can only hope that he'll continue answering here and there vs not all.

I'm still running into meth priming issues and haven't put the truck back together yet because I'm going to try and put my catch can setup in since I've got things taken apart and I'll try to measure the resistance on the boost sensors while I'm at it.


'10 BMW X5///M - Alpine White on Sakhir Orange - HCP Stage 2/JB4, NGK 97506 @ .20, SS intake w/ BMC filters, gutted cats, muffler delete & Vibrant 1794's, AC Forged 312 22's, H&R 2"
'08 BMW 535xiT - BMS DCI, RB/Mishimoto
'98 BMW 740iL - ///E39 M5 6spd swap, fully built engine (sleeved, P&P, cams), 3.46 LSD, H&R Stage 2/Bilstein HD, Magnaflow 14816's
'97 BMW 328ci - ///E36 M3 clutch, L/W flywheel, 3.23LSD, Z4///M staggered 18's
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Excelent Excelent is offline
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Default 09-06-2017, 02:31 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by m5james
I haven't watched my AFR, but I should check that on old logs. I guess I assumed it'd goto into map 4 on it's own if the AFR went that lean.

I agree it sucks that Terry dropped the platform but it is what it is. He's still supporting the S63TU so your M5 reference isn't relevant. The S63 was only a three year run in two vehicles, so we're very limited. I can only hope that he'll continue answering here and there vs not all.

I'm still running into meth priming issues and haven't put the truck back together yet because I'm going to try and put my catch can setup in since I've got things taken apart and I'll try to measure the resistance on the boost sensors while I'm at it.
Thank you for your support.
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CedarPerformance CedarPerformance is offline
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Default 09-07-2017, 08:51 PM

My customer dropped his vehicle off. Updated some firmware and began to rock, boost leak, damn!

Tearing it apart to replace the pcv/breather setup tomorrow. Interested to see how your catch can install goes.

Going to do my best to help support you guys where Terry cannot, a lot of problems with this engine seem to be engine related, not jb4. At least in my experience so far.

Last edited by CedarPerformance; 09-07-2017 at 09:05 PM.. Reason: Wall of text lol
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CedarPerformance CedarPerformance is offline
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Default 09-07-2017, 09:17 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Excelent
Yes that is what happens to me to. The AFR stops at 20 when reduce power lights up.
My opinion is also that the engine run to lean and therefore its happen.
I don't like this situation, because Terry don't help us at al. Next time if and when I bought a new car. For example M5 4WD I cant buy any JB4 again. Im gone go another route for sure.
You can't and should not leave the customers on their own after you bought something. This is the first time in my life when somebody behavior like this.
I'm sorry you feel that way, boss. The odds are that the problem is not with the jb4, but with your setup (no offense). You need to keep a few things in mind...

1) I have a lot of training and experience, and it is hard to diagnose tuned car drivability problems with the car in front of me, it's borderline impossible to do it over the internet.

2) I promise you, Terry did not profit enough off your jb4 purchase to justify 3 hours+ of support and diagnostics. He and his crew do a solid job.

3) Your engine is throwing codes and you haven't read them out yet to see what the dme thinks is wrong?

4) Have you modified your diverter valve, or pcv system? These are frequently changed on the n54/n55 platform.

5) Can you post a picture of your user settings on map6?
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neuroclast neuroclast is offline
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Default 09-09-2017, 04:41 PM

@terry, can we get a flash that is compatible with the newest Mobile app? It won't flash the 3B binary you have listed, nor will it connect to it.
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Terry @ BMS Terry @ BMS is online now
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Default 09-09-2017, 09:56 PM

Try it again.


Burger Motorsports
Home of the Worlds fastest N20s, N54s, N55s, S55s, N63s, and S63s!

It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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neuroclast neuroclast is offline
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Default 09-10-2017, 04:40 PM

Well got it to flash and the new app to connect (using BT module). Unfortunately it will only connect when the car is off, but once it's connected I can start the car.

I'm getting a ton of bugs, so I'm not sure what's up:
  • Gauges on the app randomly go to 0 or get stuck on some value. They also don't update nearly as fast as my e90 does, which makes me think there is something buggy happening when they do update. Nothing on my OBD2 port, so not sure if anything could be hogging resources on the CAN bus.
  • As mentioned, can only connect to JB4 when car is off.
  • Randomly switches to map 0 (cruising, idling, does it all the time), and the app says it "tried to switch to an invalid map."
  • Reading codes does not work. Just shows a bunch of weird characters when I try.

This is with the N63 JB4 Beta + BCM running the "4" firmware.

If anyone has tips, I'm all ears. Steering wheel controls work fine, but oddly the iDrive turns off when I pull them up.

Last edited by neuroclast; 09-10-2017 at 04:46 PM..
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CedarPerformance CedarPerformance is offline
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Default 09-10-2017, 04:47 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by neuroclast
Well got it to flash and the new app to connect (using BT module). Unfortunately it will only connect when the car is off, but once it's connected I can start the car.

I'm getting a ton of bugs, so I'm not sure what's up:
  • Gauges on the app randomly go to 0 or get stuck on some value. They also don't update nearly as fast as my e90 does, which makes me think there is something buggy happening when they do update. Nothing on my OBD2 port, so not sure if anything could be hogging resources on the CAN bus.
  • As mentioned, can only connect to JB4 when car is off.
  • Randomly switches to map 0 (cruising, idling, does it all the time), and the app says it "tried to switch to an invalid map."

This is with the N63 JB4 Beta + BCM running the "4" firmware.

If anyone has tips, I'm all ears. Steering wheel controls work fine, but oddly the iDrive turns off when I pull them up.
Try relocating your JB4. This is a known issue with Bluetooth interferences, not a failure of the jb4. I was working on a car dropping FF values constantly, but the jb4 was still doing its job. I verified by using my laptop instead of the Bluetooth. Solid logs from that point out.

This product is no longer supported, but I am working on a Bluetooth extension cable with different shielded housings to try and remedy this issue. I'll post here when it's done, whether or not it actually fixed anything.

Sorry boss, big v8 has a lot of noise. If you need to tune the car, try using a laptop if the Bluetooth is standing in the way. If the car runs fine, hang tight. I've got multiple customers begging for a solution, so I'm going to do what I can.
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neuroclast neuroclast is offline
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Default 09-10-2017, 05:29 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by CedarPerformance
Try relocating your JB4. This is a known issue with Bluetooth interferences, not a failure of the jb4. I was working on a car dropping FF values constantly, but the jb4 was still doing its job. I verified by using my laptop instead of the Bluetooth. Solid logs from that point out.

This product is no longer supported, but I am working on a Bluetooth extension cable with different shielded housings to try and remedy this issue. I'll post here when it's done, whether or not it actually fixed anything.

Sorry boss, big v8 has a lot of noise. If you need to tune the car, try using a laptop if the Bluetooth is standing in the way. If the car runs fine, hang tight. I've got multiple customers begging for a solution, so I'm going to do what I can.
Well I'll go pick up a USB to serial cable tomorrow and find out for sure, but I have a hard time swallowing that EMI is causing the jb4 to switch Maps to 0.

I also tried moving the jb4 inside the DME box and got the same results.
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CedarPerformance CedarPerformance is offline
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Default 09-10-2017, 05:40 PM

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Originally Posted by neuroclast
Well I'll go pick up a USB to serial cable tomorrow and find out for sure, but I have a hard time swallowing that EMI is causing the jb4 to switch Maps to 0.

I also tried moving the jb4 inside the DME box and got the same results.
Sorry boss, spending time with Family I didn't see the map switching part. What vehicle have you selected? Terry will know best but I use n54 E series on the n/s63, double bank o2's, e chassis, seems to make sense.

Switching to an invalid map is interesting... We will have to wait for Terry to hear on that. Sounds like you are triggering a switch to Map 4 some how, either lean or over boost or whatever, and there is something going on there, so it is kicking to map 0. Can you select map 4 on your own with no problems?

I would reflash your jb4 with a laptop instead of Bluetooth, to be sure all hex is perfectly flashed. Then try to dial the tune after that. Logs will help too brother. Sorry for the half-ass support, like I say d, Sunday family day!
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neuroclast neuroclast is offline
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Default 09-12-2017, 10:51 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by CedarPerformance
Sorry boss, spending time with Family I didn't see the map switching part. What vehicle have you selected? Terry will know best but I use n54 E series on the n/s63, double bank o2's, e chassis, seems to make sense.

Switching to an invalid map is interesting... We will have to wait for Terry to hear on that. Sounds like you are triggering a switch to Map 4 some how, either lean or over boost or whatever, and there is something going on there, so it is kicking to map 0. Can you select map 4 on your own with no problems?

I would reflash your jb4 with a laptop instead of Bluetooth, to be sure all hex is perfectly flashed. Then try to dial the tune after that. Logs will help too brother. Sorry for the half-ass support, like I say d, Sunday family day!
Just an update: I got a BMS data cable and it seems to be working okay now. Need to do more testing, but it looks like it actually was a problem with the bluetooth. For those of you who might have this issue going forward, hopefully this helps you out.

Many thanks to CedarPerformance for the tip!
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m5james m5james is offline
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Default 09-12-2017, 11:05 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by CedarPerformance
Terry will know best but I use n54 E series on the n/s63
This isn't verbatim but each series selection is just a limiter for max boost safety. Anytime I tried saving map 6 settings for boost safety above 21psi I would get an error saying it's not a valid number. I run mine on the F series settings and it allows me to save boost safety to over 21psi.

Now I've found though that anytime I push over 21psi that I get an overboost code, which is why I'm looking into running F1* M* / F8* X*M S63TU boost sensors since they're different than the S63 version.


'10 BMW X5///M - Alpine White on Sakhir Orange - HCP Stage 2/JB4, NGK 97506 @ .20, SS intake w/ BMC filters, gutted cats, muffler delete & Vibrant 1794's, AC Forged 312 22's, H&R 2"
'08 BMW 535xiT - BMS DCI, RB/Mishimoto
'98 BMW 740iL - ///E39 M5 6spd swap, fully built engine (sleeved, P&P, cams), 3.46 LSD, H&R Stage 2/Bilstein HD, Magnaflow 14816's
'97 BMW 328ci - ///E36 M3 clutch, L/W flywheel, 3.23LSD, Z4///M staggered 18's
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CedarPerformance CedarPerformance is offline
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Default 09-12-2017, 11:05 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by neuroclast
Just an update: I got a BMS data cable and it seems to be working okay now. Need to do more testing, but it looks like it actually was a problem with the bluetooth. For those of you who might have this issue going forward, hopefully this helps you out.

Many thanks to CedarPerformance for the tip!
That's great news! I'm glad you got things running smooth.

I just spent two days running around an s63, wound up replacing all vacuum lines, wastegate solenoids, and PCV lines to finally get the car where I was at. This setup is very finnicky. Running solid now.
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Default 09-12-2017, 11:11 AM

I'll happily taken vacuum and PCV lines as a common issue with the S63 vs the easily spun rod bearings on the 4.0 V8 and 5.0 V10 any day :-) Any symptoms as to why you replaced the BOV's?


'10 BMW X5///M - Alpine White on Sakhir Orange - HCP Stage 2/JB4, NGK 97506 @ .20, SS intake w/ BMC filters, gutted cats, muffler delete & Vibrant 1794's, AC Forged 312 22's, H&R 2"
'08 BMW 535xiT - BMS DCI, RB/Mishimoto
'98 BMW 740iL - ///E39 M5 6spd swap, fully built engine (sleeved, P&P, cams), 3.46 LSD, H&R Stage 2/Bilstein HD, Magnaflow 14816's
'97 BMW 328ci - ///E36 M3 clutch, L/W flywheel, 3.23LSD, Z4///M staggered 18's
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CedarPerformance CedarPerformance is offline
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Default 09-12-2017, 11:21 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by m5james
I'll happily taken vacuum and PCV lines as a common issue with the S63 vs the easily spun rod bearings on the 4.0 V8 and 5.0 V10 any day :-) Any symptoms as to why you replaced the BOV's?
edit: I have this s63 in my shop for this little work. I have a 750Li (n63) right next to it getting a long block replacement and new turbos due to a spun bearing..... 35k on the clock. Change your oil, and let your car warm up.


I didn't replace the BOV (Diverter Valve) though I am thinking about seeing what would happen if I fit a DV+ from GFB on the car. The DV's look the same as what is on the n55. I have the stuff here but I only have one DV+, might try it just to see if it'll fit for the sake of research.

I replaced the PCV valve, which on this car is the partially the entire inlet assembly feeding the turbos on both sides. The driver's side boot has two check valves in it to stop boost from pressurizing the crankcase/inlet pipe under boost. The one leading over to the passenger side intake manifold connector pipe was leaking, so we were under-boosting as well as pressurizing the crankcase.

The entire thing needs to be redesigned, but the best design would include brand new inlets. Hopefully someone pays us to develop something for it one day. That would be a lot of fun. Dual CC's seem like a good thing for this car. Isolating the two ventilation systems would probably help keep this car more reliable.
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m5james m5james is offline
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Default 09-12-2017, 11:38 AM

Yeah, the N63 is a ****show lol.

Sorry, I confused wastegate solenoid with BOV. A different BOV that actually made more sound would be cool. I can hear mine better since I've got a custom intake but I still wanna hear more.

I'll try to get pics of the catch can setup but at the moment it's on my work bench in pieces and is hard to visualize in person let alone in pics. The RB/Mishimoto setup on my GF's N54 is child's play vs this setup since it reuses many factory BMW fittings and then Fragola fittings with a mixture of -12 & -10 AN fittings. On a side note, is two catch cans necessary? I bought this setup unfinished and it's only got one catch can but he d suggest two...I'm just trying to determine if it's needed vs desired.


'10 BMW X5///M - Alpine White on Sakhir Orange - HCP Stage 2/JB4, NGK 97506 @ .20, SS intake w/ BMC filters, gutted cats, muffler delete & Vibrant 1794's, AC Forged 312 22's, H&R 2"
'08 BMW 535xiT - BMS DCI, RB/Mishimoto
'98 BMW 740iL - ///E39 M5 6spd swap, fully built engine (sleeved, P&P, cams), 3.46 LSD, H&R Stage 2/Bilstein HD, Magnaflow 14816's
'97 BMW 328ci - ///E36 M3 clutch, L/W flywheel, 3.23LSD, Z4///M staggered 18's

Last edited by m5james; 09-12-2017 at 11:51 AM..
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CedarPerformance CedarPerformance is offline
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Default 09-13-2017, 08:34 AM

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Originally Posted by m5james
Yeah, the N63 is a ****show lol.

Sorry, I confused wastegate solenoid with BOV. A different BOV that actually made more sound would be cool. I can hear mine better since I've got a custom intake but I still wanna hear more.

I'll try to get pics of the catch can setup but at the moment it's on my work bench in pieces and is hard to visualize in person let alone in pics. The RB/Mishimoto setup on my GF's N54 is child's play vs this setup since it reuses many factory BMW fittings and then Fragola fittings with a mixture of -12 & -10 AN fittings. On a side note, is two catch cans necessary? I bought this setup unfinished and it's only got one catch can but he d suggest two...I'm just trying to determine if it's needed vs desired.
Two catch cans being necessary depends entirely on your setup. If you run dual cans, you can run two independent systems. One for boost one, one for vacuum mode. This is the ideal setup. Necessary? No. More reliable? Yes.

This car is far from street legal at this point, we are going to do some testing venting the stock DV to atmosphere. The big concern with doing this would be the air flow meter. This car does not have one (like the n63 does). So no problem there. We are simply going to block off the hose and let the air vent over the top of the engine.

The Diverter Valve on the S63 is the same as the one on the n55. That being said, VTT makes a forged vacuum controled DV that would theoretically bolt right up to the stock charge pipe. Provided everything goes fine, we are likely going to order two of those and figure out the install.

Terry's discontinuation of the jb4 support for this vehicle is due to there being no solutions for simple problems that the n54/n55 platforms have. If the single turbo n55 that shares a lot of the same components is having problems with said components, why would we not have the same problems on a bigger engine with an additional turbo? We will, but with limited aftermarket part availability leading to OEM part replacement leading to another failure. Running in circles. Especially difficult for an amateur mechanic who often tend to think 'but that thing is only 2 months old it CAN'T be bad' and refuse to test it.

Your catch can/pcv system may do nothing for your car, if you are boosting well and everything's great. It may just prevent problems down the road and stop the car from dripping oil all over itself through the inlets. That's a good thing. I know we want to get rid of the plastic check valves in the system in favor of metal ones, but you already know the complications with that.

Upgrading the DV's also may do nothing for the car, unless you are having problems already.
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Default 09-13-2017, 10:51 PM

On the N54 there are two catch can setups...BMS makes one for the boost side while RB/Mishimoto is made for the vacuum side. So far I've only opted for the vacuum side and I'm amazed at how much it collects...can is about 3/4 the height of a Redbull can and it's usually 1/4 full after a few weeks. I can see where you're going with the idea of two cans. The catch can for the S63 is easily comparable in size to a family sized can of baked beans. While I bought this setup incomplete from Travis1807, I can only assume he chose this large of a due to having the necessary -10 to -12an inlets and outlets...it's an awesome looking piece but looks overkill at the same time, so mounting two will be a challenge.

http://www.xbimmers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1245651

Which vehicle isn't street legal now, the one powered by an S63 or N63? How so? I've read on the forums and watched a YouTube video (two different people) of them venting the DV to atmosphere. I've also watched the GFB video explaining why it's not an issue, especially on a MAFless vehicle, so I'm curious what you discover here.

https://youtu.be/bsy9hJic7cQ

EDIT: Just found this on xbimmers - http://www.xbimmers.com/forums/showt...8#post22191368

I haven't checked how cross compatible/similar our parts are between the N54/N55 other than we share injectors, boost sensors, etc. That research I still need to do since I wanna see if it'd be beneficial to run S63TU/N20 boost pressure sensors.

Seeing how much the catch can on our N54 catches and how much oil is in the charge ***** and/or outlets of the turbos on my S63, I fully believe it'll be very beneficial.

I can't say my DV's are having any issues and I've inspected them just this week, but I like the DV/BOV combo that GFB sells.


'10 BMW X5///M - Alpine White on Sakhir Orange - HCP Stage 2/JB4, NGK 97506 @ .20, SS intake w/ BMC filters, gutted cats, muffler delete & Vibrant 1794's, AC Forged 312 22's, H&R 2"
'08 BMW 535xiT - BMS DCI, RB/Mishimoto
'98 BMW 740iL - ///E39 M5 6spd swap, fully built engine (sleeved, P&P, cams), 3.46 LSD, H&R Stage 2/Bilstein HD, Magnaflow 14816's
'97 BMW 328ci - ///E36 M3 clutch, L/W flywheel, 3.23LSD, Z4///M staggered 18's

Last edited by m5james; 09-13-2017 at 11:17 PM..
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neuroclast neuroclast is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2015
Car: BMW 335i
Default 09-14-2017, 08:30 AM

It's annoying that I have to keep posting for help instead of cool advancements, but that's the stage I'm at right now.

Does anyone have experience with knock sensor codes on the S63? I'm getting "Knock Sensor 3" code constantly right now. Doesn't matter if JB4 is off or on, or on what map. It started after the JB was installed for a few days, so my first troubleshooting step is removing the JB and seeing if it goes away.

It will come on almost as soon as the car starts, and comes back right after clearing. At this point I'm thinking it's probably a bad sensor, but I can't find much info as these apparently don't go bad often.

I'm thinking if it was a bad coil/injector/plug, I would be getting misfire codes, not knock sensor codes.

Any tips from someone with a similar issue would be appreciated.
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Boostedx5m Boostedx5m is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Car: E70 X5m
Default 09-14-2017, 01:03 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by CedarPerformance
edit: I have this s63 in my shop for this little work. I have a 750Li (n63) right next to it getting a long block replacement and new turbos due to a spun bearing..... 35k on the clock. Change your oil, and let your car warm up.


I didn't replace the BOV (Diverter Valve) though I am thinking about seeing what would happen if I fit a DV+ from GFB on the car. The DV's look the same as what is on the n55. I have the stuff here but I only have one DV+, might try it just to see if it'll fit for the sake of research.

I replaced the PCV valve, which on this car is the partially the entire inlet assembly feeding the turbos on both sides. The driver's side boot has two check valves in it to stop boost from pressurizing the crankcase/inlet pipe under boost. The one leading over to the passenger side intake manifold connector pipe was leaking, so we were under-boosting as well as pressurizing the crankcase.

The entire thing needs to be redesigned, but the best design would include brand new inlets. Hopefully someone pays us to develop something for it one day. That would be a lot of fun. Dual CC's seem like a good thing for this car. Isolating the two ventilation systems would probably help keep this car more reliable.
I have the DV+ from GFB and they work great. They are for the N55, it requires 2 of them, not 1. Also, the screws that come with will not work on our plastic s63 charge *****. I found "Tapcon" cement screws to work great. Take the factory screws and the new DV+ diverters(Blow off valves or BOVs) to a hardware store to determine the size and new length, as you will need longer screws. Real easy. Make sure to hand tighten, not strip-out the holes. Also, note the DV+ gasket is not thick enough to seal to the charge pipe. You can get a new gasket or file down the plastic "ears/tabs" so the DV+ fits flush. If not, it will leak under boost. I run mine with the included "Sport Spring". Much more responsive.

Do you guys have some combined(or collectively combined) technical or general, even if some is in theory on how to do a double CC system on our s63s? I'd gladly fashion a system up. I'm tired of this PCV system and the many possibilities for issues.
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m5james m5james is offline
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Posts: 392
Join Date: Sep 2015
Car: 2010 X5M - Alpine White on Sakhir Orange
Default 09-21-2017, 07:01 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by CedarPerformance
Two catch cans being necessary depends entirely on your setup. If you run dual cans, you can run two independent systems. One for boost one, one for vacuum mode. This is the ideal setup. Necessary? No. More reliable? Yes.

This car is far from street legal at this point, we are going to do some testing venting the stock DV to atmosphere. The big concern with doing this would be the air flow meter. This car does not have one (like the n63 does). So no problem there. We are simply going to block off the hose and let the air vent over the top of the engine.

The Diverter Valve on the S63 is the same as the one on the n55. That being said, VTT makes a forged vacuum controled DV that would theoretically bolt right up to the stock charge pipe. Provided everything goes fine, we are likely going to order two of those and figure out the install.

Terry's discontinuation of the jb4 support for this vehicle is due to there being no solutions for simple problems that the n54/n55 platforms have. If the single turbo n55 that shares a lot of the same components is having problems with said components, why would we not have the same problems on a bigger engine with an additional turbo? We will, but with limited aftermarket part availability leading to OEM part replacement leading to another failure. Running in circles. Especially difficult for an amateur mechanic who often tend to think 'but that thing is only 2 months old it CAN'T be bad' and refuse to test it.

Your catch can/pcv system may do nothing for your car, if you are boosting well and everything's great. It may just prevent problems down the road and stop the car from dripping oil all over itself through the inlets. That's a good thing. I know we want to get rid of the plastic check valves in the system in favor of metal ones, but you already know the complications with that.

Upgrading the DV's also may do nothing for the car, unless you are having problems already.
I'll take pics of everything I have tonight and post it here for input.


'10 BMW X5///M - Alpine White on Sakhir Orange - HCP Stage 2/JB4, NGK 97506 @ .20, SS intake w/ BMC filters, gutted cats, muffler delete & Vibrant 1794's, AC Forged 312 22's, H&R 2"
'08 BMW 535xiT - BMS DCI, RB/Mishimoto
'98 BMW 740iL - ///E39 M5 6spd swap, fully built engine (sleeved, P&P, cams), 3.46 LSD, H&R Stage 2/Bilstein HD, Magnaflow 14816's
'97 BMW 328ci - ///E36 M3 clutch, L/W flywheel, 3.23LSD, Z4///M staggered 18's
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m5james m5james is offline
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Posts: 392
Join Date: Sep 2015
Car: 2010 X5M - Alpine White on Sakhir Orange
Default 09-21-2017, 07:08 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Boostedx5m
I have the DV+ from GFB and they work great. They are for the N55, it requires 2 of them, not 1. Also, the screws that come with will not work on our plastic s63 charge *****. I found "Tapcon" cement screws to work great. Take the factory screws and the new DV+ diverters(Blow off valves or BOVs) to a hardware store to determine the size and new length, as you will need longer screws. Real easy. Make sure to hand tighten, not strip-out the holes. Also, note the DV+ gasket is not thick enough to seal to the charge pipe. You can get a new gasket or file down the plastic "ears/tabs" so the DV+ fits flush. If not, it will leak under boost. I run mine with the included "Sport Spring". Much more responsive.

Do you guys have some combined(or collectively combined) technical or general, even if some is in theory on how to do a double CC system on our s63s? I'd gladly fashion a system up. I'm tired of this PCV system and the many possibilities for issues.
You find them for cheaper than $130 each anywhere? - http://www.ebay.com/itm/GFB-T9356-DV...9WkFG7&vxp=mtr

I posted a link about the gentleman that started the kit which I have now. He posted many pics about the differences between the S63 and S63TU's system, now I just need to make sense and find room for everything I have.

EDIT - watched some YouTube videos and came across this which happens to say the link above is a fake :-/ Fortunately for us in the US, buying directly from GFB converts to $114 vs the eBay ones being $139...then add $55 for shipping and it's pretty much a wash.

EDIT 2 - wrote the seller and mentioned the YouTube video and the link provided in the comments. Seller pointed out that 0 matches were available on the link, meaning the fake seller is gone and this seller reassured me that his are real. I guess we'll see.


'10 BMW X5///M - Alpine White on Sakhir Orange - HCP Stage 2/JB4, NGK 97506 @ .20, SS intake w/ BMC filters, gutted cats, muffler delete & Vibrant 1794's, AC Forged 312 22's, H&R 2"
'08 BMW 535xiT - BMS DCI, RB/Mishimoto
'98 BMW 740iL - ///E39 M5 6spd swap, fully built engine (sleeved, P&P, cams), 3.46 LSD, H&R Stage 2/Bilstein HD, Magnaflow 14816's
'97 BMW 328ci - ///E36 M3 clutch, L/W flywheel, 3.23LSD, Z4///M staggered 18's

Last edited by m5james; 09-22-2017 at 11:18 AM..
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