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rcpro88 rcpro88 is offline
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Default 03-13-2017, 01:29 AM

True that! It was a bitch installing inlets on my 535i, a lot of pulling and tugging on that rear inlet to get it on. My worst fear was not being able to get the rear inlet on and being ****ed after I cut off the stock rear inlet. Shop vac the f@ck out of the rear turbo after cutting off the inlet.
inlets are a big help, **** every time i barely get on the gas, turbos spool instantly.


VRSF Inlets, Chargepipe, **'s, FMIC
HKS BOV, BMS DCI, BMS Meth Kit
JB4 w/MHD-BMS E85 Backend Flash w/Nexus 7
Custom Map 6 21.5 psi (E70 mix)
Walbro 450 LPFP - 4 Bar TMAP Sensor - Muff Delete
SAT Transmission Flash/retrofit (Thanks to Wedge!)
AD Engineering Oil thermostat - Rob Beck PCV Valve
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Continental Extreme Contact DWS06 Tires
Installed all the parts myself.

Last edited by rcpro88; 05-05-2017 at 06:43 AM..
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Kebinuu Kebinuu is offline
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Default 04-05-2017, 05:39 PM

Sorry but can I confirm this is for "intake" inlet and not the outlets right
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viperware viperware is offline
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Default 04-05-2017, 05:42 PM

Yes, this guide is for the intakes only.


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christoepurrr christoepurrr is offline
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Default 05-02-2017, 01:16 PM

Found this online:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti..._Replacing.htm

how do you guys feel about their approach for this DIY?
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vaska85 vaska85 is offline
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Default 05-03-2017, 03:39 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by viperware
Yes, this guide is for the intakes only.
Thanks for the effort you made! I appreciate that much! But I do not plan swapping the inlet *****. Instead I am in the terrible need for accessing the REAR turbine compressor wheel in order to clean it (I belive there is a small amount of cloth debris on it). My question is: Is it possible to make it without cutting the pipe? I only need to move the pipe off the turbo inlet and litte space for cleaning procedures. Will I have to remove the **** as well? Thank!
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ucsbwsr ucsbwsr is offline
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Default 05-03-2017, 06:14 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by vaska85
Thanks for the effort you made! I appreciate that much! But I do not plan swapping the inlet *****. Instead I am in the terrible need for accessing the REAR turbine compressor wheel in order to clean it (I belive there is a small amount of cloth debris on it). My question is: Is it possible to make it without cutting the pipe? I only need to move the pipe off the turbo inlet and litte space for cleaning procedures. Will I have to remove the **** as well? Thank!
Try supporting the engine from the top, dropping the subframe and then raising or lowering the engine to get the clearance you need. It might be a great time to just ditch the stock inlets for some silicone ones. They are cheap and it sounds like you will be going through some of the "inlet hassle" anyway so might as well.

Evan


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BevsM3 BevsM3 is offline
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Default 05-03-2017, 07:36 AM

Very helpful, thanks for the pictures. I had a very hard time installing the rear inlet on my 535i xdrive. Did **'s at the same time. All day job but worth it!!
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rcpro88 rcpro88 is offline
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Default 05-05-2017, 06:42 AM

Viperware - How much gains do you notice from the outlets? I have inlets but didn't install outlets at the time. I'm FBO + meth + walbro 450 lpfp.
How much do you notice from port injection vs 2 nozzles on the charge pipe?


VRSF Inlets, Chargepipe, **'s, FMIC
HKS BOV, BMS DCI, BMS Meth Kit
JB4 w/MHD-BMS E85 Backend Flash w/Nexus 7
Custom Map 6 21.5 psi (E70 mix)
Walbro 450 LPFP - 4 Bar TMAP Sensor - Muff Delete
SAT Transmission Flash/retrofit (Thanks to Wedge!)
AD Engineering Oil thermostat - Rob Beck PCV Valve
Gloss Black BMW M359 M3 Competition Wheels
Continental Extreme Contact DWS06 Tires
Installed all the parts myself.
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viperware viperware is offline
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Default 05-15-2017, 02:47 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by rcpro88
Viperware - How much gains do you notice from the outlets? I have inlets but didn't install outlets at the time. I'm FBO + meth + walbro 450 lpfp.
How much do you notice from port injection vs 2 nozzles on the charge pipe?
I did the outlets at the same time as pure stage 2 turbo install so I have no frame of reference for the gains with just outlets themselves.

Also never had meth injection, went straight to PI. It was night and day from mixing pump gas with e85 to full e85 with PI. Much more power up top.


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purin purin is offline
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Default 10-29-2017, 07:27 AM

sorry to revive old thread but have a few clarifying questions regarding this DIY.

1) Because I don't have vise grips and afraid to drop a E30 bit back in the hole, how do I physically break off the plastic loop to free the inlet from the back of the block? I got top one to break but I am struggling with the one by the PCV out in the back. I have turbos off already and top side disconnected.

2) To pry off the inlet from the rear, I didn't know there was a bolt attached to the wastegate. I accidentally broke the inlet bolt hole loop there which is ok since it is coming out. 1 nut is visible in the photos here, the top, I couldn't seem to see or get to it at all. Unknowingly, I broke it off first.

Question is do I need to unbolt the wastegate to create space to pull down the new one and slide on to the turbo + securing the tclamp or was it to just pry off the inlet with the invisible bolt? I was hoping I don't have to mess with the bolts since I couldn't reach them even was removing the turbos.

Top right hole I believe is where the 2nd wastegate bolt goes (invisible bolt):


3) When I have turbos removed, I assume I should snake in the new inlets to approx position before installing turbos and adjust final position at the same time?

FYI, I didn't have to cut my front inlets during removal since I was already unhooking a lot up front when removing waterpump.


2008 535i 6MT - JB4 G5 + DCI, Dr Euro **, ER FMIC+CP/DV, BMS OCC, KW V2, M roadster SSK, CDV delete, Ricky Brake Effect
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purin purin is offline
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Default front inlet question - 04-07-2018, 06:10 PM

Need some advise on the front inlets please.

The red pully is not my car but that spot with the inlet in my car looks super close to the inlet. I can't really tell if it is touching of not.

How did you guys make sure inlet doesn't touch pulleys? Is your routing different than mine? I haven't actually started the car with them in yet so not 100% sure they will touch. Still buttoning up everything from turbo install.









Follow up from my previous post, I was able to get the rear on with some prying motion to force the inlet onto the rear with the wastegate still attached.

-p


2008 535i 6MT - JB4 G5 + DCI, Dr Euro **, ER FMIC+CP/DV, BMS OCC, KW V2, M roadster SSK, CDV delete, Ricky Brake Effect
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viperware viperware is offline
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Default 04-07-2018, 06:26 PM

If those are the RB inlets, there is a little bend in the silicone that allows the inlet to clear the pulley. I was concerned about the same thing, but if the inlet is pressed against the radiator it clears the pulley. Initially I was going to zip tie it to the radiator or something but I found I was able to keep the inlet pushed forward by lengthening the amount of exposed DCI tube and tightening the hose clamp. Basically, the two cone filters are in contact with each other and the the front inlet gets pushed forward as a result. From filter to inlet, the whole thing should have no play front to back and you should be good.

Edit: upon second look, the pulley I'm talking about is up and to the right in your picture. It looks like to clear the pulley in your picture, the whole inlet needs to be rotated counter-clockwise on the turbo snout so that it angles up higher.



Last edited by viperware; 04-07-2018 at 06:31 PM.. Reason: More info
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rcpro88 rcpro88 is offline
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Default 04-07-2018, 06:42 PM

When I installed my inlets, I noticed that the front inlet rubbed against a pulley. I'm pretty sure it was either the alternator pulley or an idler pulley next to it. I didn't have any rubbing against the flywheel but with the inlet in place and the air filter on, the inlet would be pulled a pulley. I simply held the inlet back with a few zip ties around the inlet and around a coolant hose. I also zip tied the front inlet to the metal bent tube that runs in front of the engine, pretty sure it's an AC component. I was planning on manufacturing a small bracket to hold the inlet in place but eventually forgot about it since the zip ties worked. I am planning on replacing the zip ties when I do my turbo swap (this week or next)
oh and I have VRSF inlets btw.


VRSF Inlets, Chargepipe, **'s, FMIC
HKS BOV, BMS DCI, BMS Meth Kit
JB4 w/MHD-BMS E85 Backend Flash w/Nexus 7
Custom Map 6 21.5 psi (E70 mix)
Walbro 450 LPFP - 4 Bar TMAP Sensor - Muff Delete
SAT Transmission Flash/retrofit (Thanks to Wedge!)
AD Engineering Oil thermostat - Rob Beck PCV Valve
Gloss Black BMW M359 M3 Competition Wheels
Continental Extreme Contact DWS06 Tires
Installed all the parts myself.
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purin purin is offline
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Default 04-08-2018, 05:08 AM

Thanks for the insight guys.

I'll try the DCI pushing each other out method to see if that allows for enough tension and avoid the pulley (sorry if this is actually called something else). I wanted to stay away from zip ties as I only have white ones and might look ugly.

I relooked at the red pulley picture and noticed I have that black prop up plastic piece sitting on the floor right now. It might support and prop up the AC line and just enough so the inlet can sit on top and clear the pulley below.

I have the snout clamp facing down since I tightened it from under the car with the waterpump off. Hindsight... that bolt could have been reached from top side now looking at it straight on with a few extenders. If all else fails, I'll undo the waterpump again, redo the clamp and rotate counter clock wise. I thought I had turned it enough when tightening...

-p


2008 535i 6MT - JB4 G5 + DCI, Dr Euro **, ER FMIC+CP/DV, BMS OCC, KW V2, M roadster SSK, CDV delete, Ricky Brake Effect
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purin purin is offline
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Default 04-08-2018, 07:12 PM

I took a look at the DCIs pushing each other today to see if the front inlet touches the crank pulley. It feels like it clears it but still concerned that driving vibrations might still touch.

The plastic do-hicky thing did the trick once screwed down!



-p


2008 535i 6MT - JB4 G5 + DCI, Dr Euro **, ER FMIC+CP/DV, BMS OCC, KW V2, M roadster SSK, CDV delete, Ricky Brake Effect

Last edited by purin; 04-12-2018 at 05:34 AM.. Reason: got everything connected!
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