[Terry @ BMS]

Hey guys,

Getting ready to expand Stage2 testing so it's time to put together a little DIY showing how to add the new wires to your Stage1 harness. The process is fairly simple as you'll see below.

Step 1: Disconnect the negative battery terminal in the trunk. When you later reconnect it you will need to reset your clock, etc.

Step 2: Access the DME and unplug the Stage1 control box. You will have received 4 new wires. Red, black, green, and brown. There wires are going to be inserted in the large DB25 AMP connector.



Step 3: Using a small screwdriver remove the DB25 shell by removing the two bolts and nuts holding it together. Put something under the connector, like the DME cover, to catch the two retaining bolts that will now be loose.



Step 4: The DB25 has small 1-25 numbers indicating the positions. They can be difficult to photo but are easy to see with the connector apart like this. Each new wire is going to go under the rubber grommet and in to a specific hole. Double check before putting the wire in the hole as once in they don't come out without an (inexpensive) DSUB extractor tool that most won't have handy.

Red power wire goes in to pin 22
Black chassis ground goes in to pin 10
Green CAN wire goes in to pin 2
Brown CAN wire goes in to pin 15

You'll notice there are many more open spaces. These are mapped to additional input/output signals for future feature expansion.



Once the wires are installed the DB25 will look like this.



Step 5: Reinstall the black DB25 cover. The bolts with threads missing go on the sides while the ones with threads from top to bottom screw in to the nuts at the bottom of the connector.



Coming soon where to connect these wires in the DME box!

[Terry @ BMS]

A few more install photos and guidelines.

1) Disconnect the negative battery terminal in the trunk before working inside the DME. When you reconnect it after expect to have to reset your clock, etc. If you have an X drive model you will get a 4x4 and/or various drivetrain related dash indicators until you drive the car around the block. Ignore them.

2) Remove the felt-tape holding the wire bundle together and pull out the blue and red CAN wire bundles as shown below. Each one will have a black cap on top of it. Pull the cap off and ensure the wire leads are clean. If needed you can clean them using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol. A clean connection here is critical to the CAN system functioning properly. wrap the Stage2 wire around the exposed leads and push the cap back over ensuring a solid connection. If your CAN wires have the white cap glued on you will need a heat gun or a hair dryer to remove it. Refer to those photos below for additional directions.

[Terry @ BMS]

Here are the N55 535 / F10 specific install directions.

1) Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
2) Install the red, black, green, and brown wires in the DB25 AMP connector as shown above.
3) Remove the passenger side trim panel by lifting up the center of each of the press on plastic rivets and then lifting up the rivet itself.
3a) Inspect the connector to ensure your F10 is Stage2 compatible. Many are not. If the required wires in the below steps are not present in your model you will need to downgrade to the Stage1. The harnesses are the same. Simply plug the S1 control box in leaving the 4 extra S2 wires disconnected and tucked out of the way.
4) Route the JB4 control box under the rubber weather stripping in to position as shown. If you are unable to reach the change around the sensor connector routing you've used as needed to ensure sufficient slack in the harness.
5) Connect the red power wire (+12v) to position A. The black plastic cap will pull straight up and you use a 10mm socket to loosen the bolt to attach the wire.
6) Connect the black ground wire to position B or any suitable ground location. We used a TORX screw that is just out of shot in the the photo below.
7) Connecting the CAN wires is the most difficult part as you'll need to use the included removable wire taps. The brown wire (C in photo) connects to the yellow CAN wire as indicated. And the green wire (D in photo) connects to the black/blue wire right next to it. Both OEM wires will be twisted together in a pair so you will need to untwist them a bit to expose enough wire to make room to attach the taps. For those with the special posi-tap screw couplers see image below for directions on their use.
8) Once done reconnect battery.
9) Connect the BMS USB cable (which will normally sit under the black plastic cover) and connect to the JB4 interface. With engine running select "start logging" and you should see engine RPM start moving, etc. If you don't, then likely an install error has been made or the CAN wires do not have a solid connection. In that case disconnect battery and further troubleshoot.
10) Ensure boost solenoid connector is installed for Stage2. Stage1 has this disconnected but it should be connected for Stage2. It's the connector with the blue wires.

Also note the F10 uses special N55 firmware so be sure to only upload firmware that has "F10" listed in it, or your vehicle will become a large paperweight until the correct firmware is uploaded.

[Sharbotcom]

Terry:

Is the JB4 for the F10 still going to be plug 'n play for easy removal considering the tie-ins used for connections C and D above?

Thanks,
Bill